MINI Failed Smog-Is Anyone Having this Problem?
MINI Failed Smog-Is Anyone Having this Problem?
I live in CA and have a 2006 Mini S with just under 37,000 miles on it. To my surprise, my car did not pass smog today. I feel like I am getting the run around. The big name smog shop said the check engine light came on immediately and the car had trouble shifting into second gear. They told me to take it to the dealership. I called the MINI dealership and they said it's because the front wheels are spinning and the rears are not. This messes with the transmission. They said the smog shop needs to ignore the light, keep running the test, and it will pass. MINI said they see this a lot. People come in and pay $160.00 for a diagnostic (faults thrown) and nothing is wrong. The smog shop and MINI service spoke and still nothing! The smog shop said they can't ignore the light and they referred me to the Bureau of Automotive Repairs. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem, or do you have any solutions? I just want my car to pass smog and I'm hoping I don't have to pay an arm and a leg. Thank you.
Suggestion one: Get out of California.
Suggestion two: See if the dealership can do smogs. Some of them do, though I don't know about Mini dealers.
Good luck! I'll try and remember this when I have to get mine smogged in Nevada.

Suggestion two: See if the dealership can do smogs. Some of them do, though I don't know about Mini dealers.
Good luck! I'll try and remember this when I have to get mine smogged in Nevada.
I read some older posts about CA and smogs before posting.
The MINI dealership recommended a smog shop that is behind their dealership. They service a lot of MINIS and are aware of the check engine light situation. At lease if there is a problem, I can keep going back and forth until it passes! I will post if I learn anything new or helpful.
The MINI dealership recommended a smog shop that is behind their dealership. They service a lot of MINIS and are aware of the check engine light situation. At lease if there is a problem, I can keep going back and forth until it passes! I will post if I learn anything new or helpful.
The check engine light comes on because the car goes into limp mode because the ABS throws a code as it sees the rear tires not moving but the front are moving and can't control the car appropriately to it's programming. I've done this test yesterday (as I was trying to track down an odd noise in one of the suspension arms). The car needs to not be in free spin with tires rotating. It needs to be on a dyno and in "dyno mode" (e.g. disable ABS/DSC/ASC). You can do the same test IF you have the car in the air, start the car, disable DSC then start moving. ABS cannot pick up the fact the two are not moving or it will throw a code and the check engine light will come on.
Pick a new test facility. I like the suggestion from gaylej -- ask your dealer who they may recommend if not if they can do it.
Pick a new test facility. I like the suggestion from gaylej -- ask your dealer who they may recommend if not if they can do it.
Did this work?
The check engine light comes on because the car goes into limp mode because the ABS throws a code as it sees the rear tires not moving but the front are moving and can't control the car appropriately to it's programming. I've done this test yesterday (as I was trying to track down an odd noise in one of the suspension arms). The car needs to not be in free spin with tires rotating. It needs to be on a dyno and in "dyno mode" (e.g. disable ABS/DSC/ASC). You can do the same test IF you have the car in the air, start the car, disable DSC then start moving. ABS cannot pick up the fact the two are not moving or it will throw a code and the check engine light will come on.
Pick a new test facility. I like the suggestion from gaylej -- ask your dealer who they may recommend if not if they can do it.
Pick a new test facility. I like the suggestion from gaylej -- ask your dealer who they may recommend if not if they can do it.
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