A basic guide to Spark Plugs.
#127
In short, stop running those goofball JCW plugs that have 4 ground electrodes. Select a "copper" or platinum V-Power plug in the correct heat range, gap it correctly for your application (0.032" for R53's with stock boost levels & 0.030" for mild pulleys), and be on your way. Ditch the Iridium, too.
This should be quoted over and over again. People need to quit making a simple job so complicated! I just read post after post after post and it's no wonder people get so confused when it comes to this.
#133
Quoting the information from above and providing some data.
"Cooper S: NGK: PLZBR7A-G and JCW: NGK: ILZKBR7A-8G tightening torque: 15-20nm (10.8-14.5 lbs/ft) thread diameter/pitch M12 x 1.25 socket size 14mm, electrode gap: pre set, heat range 7"
The MINI spark plug box calls out the torque as 23nm. The Bentley Manual also calls out torque spec as 23nm +-3nm.
The pre-gapped for the NGK ILZKBR7A-8G is .027" or .69mm.
"Cooper S: NGK: PLZBR7A-G and JCW: NGK: ILZKBR7A-8G tightening torque: 15-20nm (10.8-14.5 lbs/ft) thread diameter/pitch M12 x 1.25 socket size 14mm, electrode gap: pre set, heat range 7"
The MINI spark plug box calls out the torque as 23nm. The Bentley Manual also calls out torque spec as 23nm +-3nm.
The pre-gapped for the NGK ILZKBR7A-8G is .027" or .69mm.
#134
#135
I agree with you completely TheBigChill. The reference was for the R56 plug gap. Whenever I've checked the gap on new plugs for my R56 S, whether from the dealer or another source, the preset gap has always been .027" I've often heard people referencing a gap of .032" for the R56 S but that's not where I've seen the gap on a new set of plugs.
I'm pushing 21 PSIg for boost with an RMW tune and I currently have my gap set at .026".
I'm pushing 21 PSIg for boost with an RMW tune and I currently have my gap set at .026".
#137
I've been looking into a plug change. At 67k on my 09' Clubman S on what I assume are the factory plugs.
Was half thinking of these:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3435&ppt=C0334
Is that gap correct?
Was half thinking of these:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3435&ppt=C0334
Is that gap correct?
#138
hello folks, i have a 2004 MCS running a 15% alta pulley and cold air intake. the car came with the plugs when I bought it so I don't know what kind of plug I have.
Are the BKR7EIX plugs good for this upgrade?
I'm also doing the coil, can anyone confirm if this is the correct one? MSD 8239?
Thanks!
Are the BKR7EIX plugs good for this upgrade?
I'm also doing the coil, can anyone confirm if this is the correct one? MSD 8239?
Thanks!
#139
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Hi. Part number 8239 is correct for the MSD coil. It also might say it's for Dodge/Mitsubishi. -At least that's what it says on the box of mine. By the way, the only advantage of that coil is that the terminals are plated to reduce corrosion. I replaced mine because OE coil failed, and the price was nearly the same. Your money may be better spent on plug wires, and just clean up your terminals with some emery paper. The MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wires were expensive, and I'm not sure if they're better than Napa wires. MSD plug wires are part number 32879.
For plugs (with a 15% pulley), I like NGK BKR7EQUP. It's the factory plug for a John Cooper Works. I bet your plug with heat range 7 will be okay with your pulley. Irradium and Platinum are actually worse conductors than copper, but they do last longer, which is one reason I use the platinums. Also these do not need to be gapped, and have the 4 electrodes.
Change your plugs on a cold engine only, use a torque wrench, threads in your head are on the soft side. Nothing to worry about, just be aware of it and don't over tighten.
Enjoy your tune up. Motor on!
For plugs (with a 15% pulley), I like NGK BKR7EQUP. It's the factory plug for a John Cooper Works. I bet your plug with heat range 7 will be okay with your pulley. Irradium and Platinum are actually worse conductors than copper, but they do last longer, which is one reason I use the platinums. Also these do not need to be gapped, and have the 4 electrodes.
Change your plugs on a cold engine only, use a torque wrench, threads in your head are on the soft side. Nothing to worry about, just be aware of it and don't over tighten.
Enjoy your tune up. Motor on!
#140
Thanks AlexQS.
I ended up buying a set of BKR7EIX as I had seen in some YT videos and read online. I also got the coil pack and the wire set as well.
Yes, I have been reading on the cold install and the torque. I don't have a torque wrench but I will get one this weekend.
I've had the Mini for 3 years and now I just discovered that it is really fun to work on it!
I ended up buying a set of BKR7EIX as I had seen in some YT videos and read online. I also got the coil pack and the wire set as well.
Yes, I have been reading on the cold install and the torque. I don't have a torque wrench but I will get one this weekend.
I've had the Mini for 3 years and now I just discovered that it is really fun to work on it!
#143
Harbor Freight sells a 3/8 inch drive torque wrench for quite a low price. It is adjustable down to 5 lbs. ft. Being Chinese, it may not be as accurate as say Craftsman or Snap-On, but it sure beats guessing. If you can get within 5% of precise you are good. And you can at the very least get all of the plugs at the same torque.
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...nch-61276.html
#144
Something to keep in mind about spark plugs is that electricity "likes" sharp edges to jump to and from. That is why Iridium and Platinum plugs last so much longer, they retain their sharp electrode edges much longer. Dirty or carbon coated plugs are essentially widening the gap because the edges are covered up. This is also part of the science behind multiple ground, v-groove, u-groove, and other such plugs. They have more sharp edges so they work better longer.
#145
#146
Spark Plugs
This application guide should help answer many questions:
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...lication_Guide
Plus, NGK has their own guide as well:
http://new.minimania.com/Spark_Plugs_Overview_by_NGK
Please ask if you have any questions!
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...lication_Guide
Plus, NGK has their own guide as well:
http://new.minimania.com/Spark_Plugs_Overview_by_NGK
Please ask if you have any questions!
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#147
Regarding the claims that Iridium plugs last 100,000 miles. Here's a photo from several years ago of the Iridium plugs that I took out of my 2005 JCW. The previous owner put these in, so they would have been in service a maximum of 50,000 miles. The center pins are gone or seriously corroded on all of them. The old plugs were Denso IK20. The new plug in the center for comparison is NGK BKR7E??? as delivered in this kit in 2012.
Denso IK20, at most 50,000 miles.
Denso IK20, at most 50,000 miles.
#148
Regarding the claims that Iridium plugs last 100,000 miles. Here's a photo from several years ago of the Iridium plugs that I took out of my 2005 JCW. The previous owner put these in, so they would have been in service a maximum of 50,000 miles. The center pins are gone or seriously corroded on all of them. The old plugs were Denso IK20. The new plug in the center for comparison is NGK BKR7E??? as delivered in this kit in 2012.
Denso IK20, at most 50,000 miles.
Denso IK20, at most 50,000 miles.
#150
Follow up to previous photo. Here is today's change-out of those plugs. In at 77,000 miles, out at 118,000, for 41,000 miles of service. Shows signs of wear on plug #4, but nothing like the previous ones. Replaced this with the same kit, including plug wires. Plugs are NGK BKR7EIX-11 IX Iridium Plug.
41,000 miles on NGK BKR7EIX-11 IX Iridium Plugs
41,000 miles on NGK BKR7EIX-11 IX Iridium Plugs