Your starting problem was most likely caused by the wrong choice heat range Brisk spark plug, or the other problem may have been incorrect electrode air gap, for your individual application!

If you choose or were recommended a 1 or 2 steps colder spark plug, from the factory standard NGK, and you had no problems running or starting on the factory recommended NGK, then you will suffer from starting problems, however this is dependent on your individual engine modifications, and by the sound of things, in your individual case, you do not warrant or need a colder running spark plug!

 

The Brisks fouled, I replaced them with colder ,JCW, BKR7EQUP NGK's and the car has been starting better than it has been in a long time, I don't know the heat range/number of the Brisks , never saw them, they were installed at the time of the 15% pulley. I could find out.

 

As your Brisks fouled, then they were definitely too cold for your particular application, if you let me know what they were, I will tell you exactly what they cross reference too, in the NGK range, and their heat range too.

They should have been: DR15YS

If they were: DR14YS or DR12YS these are 1 and 2 step colder respectively, and were too cold for your application.

 

Nice write up.

This week I changed the plugs for the first time in my 2002 MCS with 125K on it. The 4 tip NGK: BKR6EQUP plugs were in incredibly good shape visually. Being that they were seated in the heads for nearly 9 years (hard to believe) I thought for sure I was going to strip the head with each removal. At first I couldn't break #1 loose, so I warmed the engine slightly and proceeded. Almost required a breaker bar, and the screeching the plug threads were making I was sure I was tearing the head threads out with it. All four were the same. Fortunately, the removal was a success. I urge everyone to break their plugs free every so often. I was lucky I didn't damage the heads.

Upon installing the new NGK: BKR6EQUP exact replacements ($7.50 each at Pep Boys) I applied a very small amount of anti-seize compound. Caution, this can change the torque results.

ONE MORE WORD OF CAUTION: USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Being my wrench was at my other shop, I hand "guessed" 17Ft Lbs on the initial installation.. The next day I had my torque wrench (after driving 50 miles) I loosened the plugs which by then only felt finger tight. Another day or so and they could have blown out. Re-torquing to 18Ft Lbs it was surprising the force it took to get to 18lb.

BTW, the plugs made the throttle response feel a bit crisper, but even with the old it was running great. Next will be to replace the old plug wires.

 

I had changed mine with a bit over 91 K on my 04, I was also expecting the worst, but they came out, and like yours were in great shape, I replaced with the NGK Iridum ones, the car feels smoother, and the gas Milage is better, I have not felt any power gains, and actually I think the torque feels less, i also replaced the wires with a set of NGK, from amazon for under 30 bucks and they look good, next is the coil, even though it seems fine, I would rather replace it before it goes

 

Interesting that czar says NO anti-seize on the plug threads. The factory service manual is adamant about putting anti-seize on the plug threads, a big YES.

BTW, if you have trouble getting plugs from your local stores, try Amazon. That's where I have to order them from.

 

The reason Anti-seize compound must NOT be used is, when you apply it to the threads of your spark plugs, as you screw them into place, then the excess is pushed upwards and onto the spark plug sealing gasket (washer) this then has a detremental effect on the final applied tightening torque.

Also the bitng resistance of the thread has been reduced, and this does increase the likelyhood of a spark plug coming loose!

The common reason for spark plug ejection (coming loose) is from heat harmonic vibrations, this is when you have an incorrect AFR in the offending cylinder! And so it is very very important to have correct individual cylinder AFR's, and no matter what the OEM literature states, (they do not manufacture the spark plugs!) NEVER use Anti-seize compound, check and change your spark lpugs regular, and you will not have any problems.

 

czar

I would like to install the NGK Platinum or Iridium plugs on my Works (1st Gen.) for their longevity.

From you 1st post you mention that the Iridium plugs “have a tip projection of 1mm extra in length over the above!” What kind of problem would this pose??

How would I know if which plugs are “Resistor spark plugs”?

 

CZAR, thanks for your post regarding the anti-seize compound. Being that I wasn't certain to use or not to use, I used an extremely small amount. I applied three very small dabs near the tip. By the time the plug was screwed in, there wasn't enough to be spread or forced to the top. Another potential downside for anti-seize on spark plugs is the potential to reduce the cooling of the plug. This was more of a concern on air cooled Porsche engines. Wasn't a concern on my MINI cause I quit driving her her aggressively about 40K ago. She's now driven in the pampered mode.

Spark plugs: Split Fire, Rim Fire, Four Way etc. Remember electric is only going to take the path of least resistance. If the distance to the tip is the same for any of the plug designs, I wonder if the design really makes a difference due to the law of physics?

 

After reading this thread and am a newb, is there any DIY write up on changing the spark plugs?

 

Which plugs to get for a 2011 JCW. I want to try Brisk Silver. Just having a hard time getting the part number. Going through the threads.... looks like everyone is using these above numbers for 1st gen.

Thx!
Jackson

 

Here is a link to the correct page of BRISK USA, you will find the correct part# and info, they are the 17 and 18 in the list (MR12S & MR12YS)

http://www.briskracing.com/search.ph...=search&page=3

And you can purchase them from ALTA, again here is the link: http://www.altaperformance.com/produ...ry=43&model=11

Advisory: you will have to reduce the electrode air gap, to suit your individual engine, start out with reducing it to, 0.6mm, you may finally end up reducing the air gap to 0.4mm this will all depend on your engine mods and tune (if you have one)

 

Here is a write up I did when I changed my plugs.

 

are the same plugs used on the factory jcw as on the stage 1 or does the stage 1 still use the stock r56 plugs

 

You might find the following thread quite interesting!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...fter-tune.html

 

MCs R56 uses NGK Platinum
Stage 1 JCW uses NGK Platinum
Factory JCW uses NGK Iridium

 

Unfortunately, this thread is really more applicable to 1st-gen MINIs. I'm not sure which plugs Brisk makes for the R55/R56/R57 platform. You would have to call them. I did find one cross-reference chart for a denso plug: http://japansparkplugs.com/boutique/...4x-ixuh22.html. Perhaps one of the plugs listed there is made of copper or silver. Would be better than Platinum or Iridium plugs.

 

Did you not read the above post, I have highlighted it in Blue for you!

This highlighted reference, for the BRISK Silver spark plugs, MR12S & MR12YS are applicable to the N14 engine, R55,R56,R57.

 

czar, I missed that. Cool, man! Will pass on the info to my local club.

 

Thank you!

 

I must disagree with not using anti seize on spark plug threads, you have obviously never done a tune up on any Ford Modular v8 3 or 4 valve or even some 2v heads. Not using anti seize causes the jackets around the porcelain to seize up in the threads of the aluminum heads and they break in half when attempting to remove. Now a head job is in line. I am an ASE certified technician and do tune ups on all America's vehicles daily and have also owned MANY forced induction cars and built many and I would HIGHLY suggest using it. Dont use it in heavy amounts just a brisk dot will work and only every other tune up I would suggest, or dont and go ahead and crack those plugs loose after first tune up 20-60k miles later and see if they dont screech, pull threads, and so forth.

Not bashing you, just I have a lot of experience with spark plug removal issues in the Ford world which also have aluminum heads, and require head jobs frequently because the plugs arent anti-seized. This is AFTER a MANDATORY 24hr cool down period before pulling.

On the other note, does anyone have a gap spec for 02 MCS if going to use a simple single ground strap BKR6E or 7E? I dont see the necessity nor believe in running platinum or iridium plugs in forced induction cars? NGK BKR6E and BKR7E are dirt cheap (1.49-1.89 a piece) and SUPER abundant! Highly popular plug in the Japanese import world when talking forced induction, and I can replace them 3-5 times for the same price as 1 tune up with iridiums.

 

Thanks for this post. The plugs that were in my 07 R56 MCS from the factory were the NGK: ILZKBR7A-8G that you have listed for the JCW. I wonder the spec was changed at some point or there was a mistake at the factory.

 

not to sound repetitive but if i'm going with a 17% pulley should I go with a stock alternative of NGK BKR6EIX which has a heat range of 6 or shall I go with a lower heat range of 7 NGK? If I go lower should I change at the same time I change the pulley or wait a little to let the car get used to the 17% pulley.

 

The heat range "7s" are appropriate for 15% or higher pulleys. I personally recommend Brisk DOR14LGS plugs. They have a silver core and will conduct much better. Only downside is you have to replace them every 30K miles (same with copper). Only advantage to platinum and iridium plugs is they last 100K miles.

 

I have a question about the socket size needed for the stock plugs vs. for the replacement/upgraded plug.
Everything i read says the stock plugs require a 12 pt 14mm thin wall long socket, so I bought one when I got the NGK's Laser Platinum LKR8AP. When I opened them up it turns out they are not 14mm but rather 16mm, went on a search for such a beast and it was very hard to find, finally found one on Amazon, but it's only a 6pt, it is a plug socket with the rubber insert as opposed to magnetic, and actually longer than the 14mm so that works out OK.
Luckily I had not started the job so the MINI has still been on the road...
Just wondering if anyone else out there had similar problems?
TIA
john