Installed r56 seats on my R53

 

For some reason I believe the R53 dash and instrument/speedometer gauges, you got coolant temp and oil pressure. I like the quality of the LED lighting, it just looks higher quality. The R56 instrument/speedometer gauges (coolant temp/oil pressure) were neutered, are the coolant temp/oil pressure gauges analog? If you don't mind me asking where did you score those matching seats?

 

Brought Raven home from my Dealers Body shop Friday. They replaced LR quarter panel due to rust bubbles under paint below LR tail light....looks awesome !

 

I just swapped out my motor mounts and transmission mounts. My R53 has 135,000 and the mounts were toasted.

Runs like new!

 

installed a 16% pulley from WCW,cabin air, oil, and de-baffled the snorkle, just to clean it up. Did the de-baffling help anything? No. Did it take 10 seconds to complete and make me happy? Yes.

 

What's the de baffle do?

 

According to the LS1 forums (LS1 also has a baffle on its snorke), it's supposed to damper the intake sound by creating a chamber to resonate any intake droning. But I have an intake (PROMINI ) that pulls air from the bay as well as the snorkle, so the baffle is unnecessary. And who doesn't like the intake sound?

 

Interesting, sound any different?

 

I also installed a 16% pulley, so the lovely whine kind of takes over the sound in the front. From a stop, a hard takeoff you hear that deep "voomp" maybe a little better? Nothing to run and go mod immediately, but I guess if you have the snorkle off and some 5 minute epoxy lying around like I did, it may be worth it. All I did was cutthe baffle off, then cut off the end piece of the baffle with a hack saw and epoxied the end cap back to the base of the baffle on the snorkle, effectively shorting the baffle from approx. 6" to maybe 1/4".

 

Yesterday I replaced the supercharger and various bits along the way. Replaced the tranny mount too. Fired right up the very first try with no lights or codes. She's running like a champ!

 

Just mounted a set of BMW M3 wheels on my 06 Mini Cooper. I used wheel adapters from Motorsport Tech then, I located a set of M3 17x7.5 wheel from hubcap haven that were trued and painted. I mounted a set of 205 40 R17 tires and I'm happy with the results.

Now I'm thinking about coilovers.

Mikes888

 

What year Mini is yours that it has rust?

 

Having been bothered by the amount of brake dust that collects on my black challenge wheels even after only a few days of driving and making the wheels look grey-ish. I decided to treat my wheels to a day at the wheel spa.

Removed all 4 wheels
Washed them all with BMW car shampoo and a micro fiber towel including the barrels
Using meguires foaming wheel cleaner for the tough stuff
Blow drying them with my car use only leaf blower
Then applying a generous coat of " chemical guys" wheel wax including the barrels
Hand buffing to a deep glossy shine.

At least they look real good now. Waiting to see if the wheel wax defers the dust from sticking so quickly and tough in the nooks

At the same time I painted the hats of my rotors black as the grey looked awful against the black wheels and red calipers.

One bad / good thing about bonding with your car every once and a while. I found a screw in my r/f tire. It's not leaking air when I did a soap test and my tpm never went off but it was low a few pounds as compared to the others. but am happy that I have wheel and tire insurance? Yup ! I'll have that taken care of tomorrow.

Also installed the PIAA extreme white light bulbs for my halogens. I like the sharpness of the white as opposed to the duller yellow of the OEM. I ordered PIAAs for the driving lights and the fogs also so that they would match. I inadvertently clicked 2 for the driving lights. So now I have a set for the lic plate lights.

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring

 

From my experience, RF tires are more susceptible to getting nail punctures on them for some reason (maybe because they are harder and have much less give to them?). On my MCS, I would find a mail once every 3 months for the first year until I switched them out to non-RF tires. Been driving the same commute for 2 years now on non-RFs and no occurrence for another nail in my tire. Plus, the ride is much more comfortable. That tire & wheel insurance is nice though if you have bad luck with nails. ; )

 

So this weekend, as well as few other weekends I finished up replacing

• Water Pump
• Themostat Housing
• Accessory Belt
• Carbon Blasting
• Valve Cover Replacement

However, now I can't get my car to start =(. I suspect it has nothing to do with the water pump, themo, belt. I am guessing its the carbon cleaning. After reading some posts I think it might be that I turned over the engine in the wrong direction(counter clock wise when looking at the passenger side wheel. Either that or I need to try it more than 3 times.

 

I have heard of this type of problem after carbon cleaning, did you by any chance move the throttle plate or get it wet with anything. Do you have any idea how many other's like yourself have had the exact same problem starting the engine after DIY intake valve cleaning? A lot! These Mini's are so sensitive that if one moves the throttle plate with the engine off you'll have a difficult time getting it to start. There's only one way to clean one's intake valves, get it walnut blasted and you'll be up and running in no time. Either way you pay the price.

I don't remember how they fixed it, be prepared for one huge headache!

 

nothing got wet but I did move the throttle plate for inspection. Could this be causing it? Also, thanks for giving me another possibility to research =)

 

Your welcome. Might want to check out these two threads.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4006058

 

MC40 #24 disassembled center console to clean and check climate control lights (lights still dont work) installed R53 badge on hatchback

MC40 #211 washed and waxed, installed Stainless Steel "GB" and R53 badges on hatchback

R52 drove to my mothers for a visit, washed and waxed Enjoyed the fall weather and the leaves as I tore a** around the mountains.


Motor on!

 

Yeah the first post is me =). I read the second post, it was really helpful and has given me some more possibilities to try out. Where did you read about the throttle plate being a problem if you move it while disconnected from the car? I am having a hard time finding that.

 

I'm still looking for it as well, it's on NAM that's for sure. Also there's a trick you can do to reset the throttle in the drivers seat, there's a couple of things you must do in certain sequence. Still looking, keep your head up. I'm going to look in the "Engine Carbon Buildup Problem census count" thread.

 

Carbon fiber wrapped my steering wheel trim, came out decent but I have to hit it with the heat gun yet.

 

I forget which member that has a real carbon fiber made steering wheel, it's pure carbon ****!

 

If it wasn't such a hassle to remove the trim I'd get at least real carbon trim to match my shift ****

 

For Gen 1 MINIs R50 R53 R53

Pair it with the JCW Alcantara wheel and the carbon fiber inserts





http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32300403545/



The bottom JCW insert is still available, but only for the bottom and the one side ( which is a blank ) for non steering wheel control MINIs.

Bottom CF JCW insert 32300403582 #4 below

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32300403582/



&

Carbon Fiber JCW Cover For Sport Wheel - Right #3 in the digram

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32300403581/