Official Automatic Transmission Owners' Club
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,446
Likes: 10
From: L.A ca
For you guys that may be looking to add some power to your cars the Sprintex thread may have some interesting info for you . We have recently completed a kit for the auto equipped cars .
Randy
M7 Tuning
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3338825
Randy
M7 Tuning
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3338825
hey there, anyone with an MCSa ('06) change there tranny fluid yet?
Just had the dealer tell me that it is "lifetime" fluid, which I already knew, and to change it would be in the $500 range because that specific fluid runs $80/qt.
My question is cant you change it out with an approved synthetic fluid?
Just had the dealer tell me that it is "lifetime" fluid, which I already knew, and to change it would be in the $500 range because that specific fluid runs $80/qt.
My question is cant you change it out with an approved synthetic fluid?
The dealer had given me an estimate of 4 hours and $400 for the job... but when I got there, it turns out they forgot I had an "S" (I've been there a few times previously, mind you) and gave me the old "it's lifetime fluid, so you don't really need to do this" line.
I persisted and am glad I did!
However, since this was the first ATF drain/fill the dealer had ever done, they only had 1 quart of MINI ATF on hand! What to do???
Well, thanks to NAM and a very helpful MINI parts rep (you know who you are
), a phone call or two to a nearby Toyota dealer turned up the requisite amount of T-IV.Total bill was for ~$290 and I was back on the road almost exactly 4 hours later... bearing in mind that a good chunk of that time was spent tracking down the T-IV.
I have to say that I didn't think my transmission was too bad beforehand, but wow... what a difference the ATF drain/fill makes!!!! It felt like a brand new car driving home from the dealer -- much sharper and better-timed shifts; what a world of difference.
If you have *any* sort of significant mileage on your R53 or R56 automatic transmission (I'm at 60k, myself), I highly recommend having this service; you won't be disappointed!!
Last edited by TimL; Aug 15, 2011 at 11:26 AM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
So a few weeks ago I was visiting my trusted independent mechanic and asked him about doing an ATF change. (Yes, I realize it's easy enough to do yourself if you have the wherewithal, but....) He in turn referred me to my "local" (2 hours' drive) MINI dealer....
The dealer had given me an estimate of 4 hours and $400 for the job... but when I got there, it turns out they forgot I had an "S" (I've been there a few times previously, mind you) and gave me the old "it's lifetime fluid, so you don't really need to do this" line.
I persisted and am glad I did!
However, since this was the first ATF drain/fill the dealer had ever done, they only had 1 quart of MINI ATF on hand! What to do???
Well, thanks to NAM and a very helpful MINI parts rep (you know who you are ), a phone call or two to a nearby Toyota dealer turned up the requisite amount of T-IV.
Total bill was for ~$290 and I was back on the road almost exactly 4 hours later... bearing in mind that a good chunk of that time was spent tracking down the T-IV.
I have to say that I didn't think my transmission was too bad beforehand, but wow... what a difference the ATF drain/fill makes!!!! It felt like a brand new car driving home from the dealer -- much sharper and better-timed shifts; what a world of difference.
If you have *any* sort of significant mileage on your R53 or R56 automatic transmission (I'm at 60k, myself), I highly recommend having this service; you won't be disappointed!!
The dealer had given me an estimate of 4 hours and $400 for the job... but when I got there, it turns out they forgot I had an "S" (I've been there a few times previously, mind you) and gave me the old "it's lifetime fluid, so you don't really need to do this" line.
I persisted and am glad I did!
However, since this was the first ATF drain/fill the dealer had ever done, they only had 1 quart of MINI ATF on hand! What to do???
Well, thanks to NAM and a very helpful MINI parts rep (you know who you are
), a phone call or two to a nearby Toyota dealer turned up the requisite amount of T-IV.Total bill was for ~$290 and I was back on the road almost exactly 4 hours later... bearing in mind that a good chunk of that time was spent tracking down the T-IV.
I have to say that I didn't think my transmission was too bad beforehand, but wow... what a difference the ATF drain/fill makes!!!! It felt like a brand new car driving home from the dealer -- much sharper and better-timed shifts; what a world of difference.
If you have *any* sort of significant mileage on your R53 or R56 automatic transmission (I'm at 60k, myself), I highly recommend having this service; you won't be disappointed!!
Thanks for the heads-up!! I know BMW wants to make things as low maintenance as possible but I don't necessarily agree with their lifetime oils, or their 15K oil changes. But, getting folks to offer their experiences maybe we can all come to some degree of consensus of what the right intervals should be. Thanks again. -- BZ
Last edited by Bravo Zulu; Aug 15, 2011 at 11:42 AM. Reason: typo
4th Gear
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: ~PHX
As someone who hates all the auto/manual wars, I have to say that the auto in my new 2012 exceeds my expectations. It's even clearer to me now that the whole "manual is superior" angle is complete hyperbole. My auto with JCW tuning kit just wants to fly!!
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
My 2012 auto is amazing, steptronic manual mode is also fun!
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
I have a question for you my fellow auto drivers. Is there a mile marker where it's ok to start driving hard on the steptronic? Should I wait until 1400 miles before I start really going heavy...I read there is a break in period....the manual only says to wait until 1400 to go over 100MPH....but what about just high rpm driving?
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 435
Likes: 4
From: Baltimore MD Area
I will apologize if someone already posted this, but I made an observation. Several people noted that an R55/R56 auto will not go into 6th gear with Sport mode engaged and in D/DS. That is true unless you also go into "+/-" mode on the trans lever then force upshift to sixth via selector or paddles. The trans will then hold 6th until you slow down and reaccelerate. This gives you full Sport mode reaction feel and still have 6th gear available for less wear and better fuel economy on the freeway.
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: SC
Thanks for the heads-up!! I know BMW wants to make things as low maintenance as possible but I don't necessarily agree with their lifetime oils, or their 15K oil changes. But, getting folks to offer their experiences maybe we can all come to some degree of consensus of what the right intervals should be. Thanks again. -- BZ
Gentlefury,
I would take it easy until 1400 as the manufacturer advises. It is more for engine break in than for the tranny. The rings need to seat properly. After 500 miles I would floor it once in a while for 20 or 30 seconds to apply different pressure to the rings and bearings and ensure even ring seating. Also letting it coast down to 30 mph or so after helps with engine break in due to the vacuum build up. This is all old school stuff.
I would take it easy until 1400 as the manufacturer advises. It is more for engine break in than for the tranny. The rings need to seat properly. After 500 miles I would floor it once in a while for 20 or 30 seconds to apply different pressure to the rings and bearings and ensure even ring seating. Also letting it coast down to 30 mph or so after helps with engine break in due to the vacuum build up. This is all old school stuff.
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
Gentlefury,
I would take it easy until 1400 as the manufacturer advises. It is more for engine break in than for the tranny. The rings need to seat properly. After 500 miles I would floor it once in a while for 20 or 30 seconds to apply different pressure to the rings and bearings and ensure even ring seating. Also letting it coast down to 30 mph or so after helps with engine break in due to the vacuum build up. This is all old school stuff.
I would take it easy until 1400 as the manufacturer advises. It is more for engine break in than for the tranny. The rings need to seat properly. After 500 miles I would floor it once in a while for 20 or 30 seconds to apply different pressure to the rings and bearings and ensure even ring seating. Also letting it coast down to 30 mph or so after helps with engine break in due to the vacuum build up. This is all old school stuff.
I always change my oil every 7,000 miles. This is about half the MINI interval. Just do not reset the monitor, then go to the dealer for your free oil change when the monitor recommends it. And check your oil every few tanks of gas. Only use oil that meets MINI specs. This includes Mobil 1 0w40 (Pep Boys has it, great stuff), http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-40.aspx
German Castrol 5w30 ( it says made in Germany on the bottle, sometimes at Autozone), LubroMoly 5w30 (import car parts stores or internet), Pennzoil Ulta Euro Spec oil (only by internet mail order), or MINI or BMW oil. The oil has to meet BMW LL01 specs and will state it on the bottle. It also has to meets ACEA A3/B4 which are European oil standards and will state it on the bottle. Most US oils do not meet those specs.
German Castrol 5w30 ( it says made in Germany on the bottle, sometimes at Autozone), LubroMoly 5w30 (import car parts stores or internet), Pennzoil Ulta Euro Spec oil (only by internet mail order), or MINI or BMW oil. The oil has to meet BMW LL01 specs and will state it on the bottle. It also has to meets ACEA A3/B4 which are European oil standards and will state it on the bottle. Most US oils do not meet those specs.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: MA USA
I think you have the ultimate set up...auto with JCW kit. It just doesnt get better than that!
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, Canada
Agreed. Even on my R53, the JCW package makes it such a joy.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: TX
I have two autos in my garage, a Legacy and the Mini. The Mini AT is superior in every single aspect, except for one thing: downshifting. If I'm in 5th in the Legacy and hit the downshift button twice quick, it's straight into third in not even a second. Try that with the Mini, it takes forever and a half.
Quick question (and there may already be a thread on this?):
Who here has dynoed their auto MINI? How much more difficult is it than dynoing a manual-trannied MINI, and what particular "tricks" are involved?
Just curious....
Who here has dynoed their auto MINI? How much more difficult is it than dynoing a manual-trannied MINI, and what particular "tricks" are involved?
Just curious....
Ok... Answering my own question (in part -- since I'd still like to hear from anyone who's dynoed their MCa/MCSa); there are quite a few threads on the topic.
Some of the more salient points:
From BlimeyCabrio:
And more from mdsbrain here.
So -- looking ahead -- I presume that a dyno is generally recommended before a tune, no?
Some of the more salient points:
From BlimeyCabrio:
Yeah... when I dyno'd my car with Jan at Speedwerks, here's what we had to do...
1) set the dyno to start reading at a higher RPM than usual... I think it was about 3000-3200RPM
2) set the dyno for 3rd gear ratio on the MINI
3) put the tranny in "manual" mode
4) very gently work your way up to third gear, without exceeding the threshold RPM you set for the dyno when in 1st or 2nd - this is VERY tricky and usually takes several tries to get it just right - if you give it too much gas, it revs up and the dyno starts the run. If you don't give it enough gas, it will stall and auto-downshift.
5) as soon as you successfully get it in 3rd gear, floor it, but NOT all the way to the floor - you have to stop at the "kickdown" point, or else it will downshift. You will also probably mess this up a time or two... ask me how I know.
6) celebrate when you finally get it right and get a "clean" run...
1) set the dyno to start reading at a higher RPM than usual... I think it was about 3000-3200RPM
2) set the dyno for 3rd gear ratio on the MINI
3) put the tranny in "manual" mode
4) very gently work your way up to third gear, without exceeding the threshold RPM you set for the dyno when in 1st or 2nd - this is VERY tricky and usually takes several tries to get it just right - if you give it too much gas, it revs up and the dyno starts the run. If you don't give it enough gas, it will stall and auto-downshift.
5) as soon as you successfully get it in 3rd gear, floor it, but NOT all the way to the floor - you have to stop at the "kickdown" point, or else it will downshift. You will also probably mess this up a time or two... ask me how I know.
6) celebrate when you finally get it right and get a "clean" run...
So -- looking ahead -- I presume that a dyno is generally recommended before a tune, no?
Last edited by TimL; Aug 23, 2011 at 09:26 AM.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Pendleton Indiana
Hey I'll join in 2009 mcsa jcw aero ds! Love these smg style transmissions! Drove a BMW 1serious with the twin clutch and it seemed to shift to fast you don't feel the **** like in our cars. It seriously took the fun out of it! I love the auto we stay in boost throug gears and manual drivers will have a harder time keeping up through the corners! All my supra friends making over 500hp leave me in the dust on the highway but we started on some back windy roads and mini FTW!