Hey I've looked everywhere in the forum for factory jcw brake diy instructions. Is there a link somewhere with instructions on the size of the caliper torx bolt, torq specs etc? Thanks

 

Try Soopercooper .com .Has a lot of do it yourself info.

 

Thanks, I just looked and all four of my jack points are missing. I just jacked it up using the sides pretty easily. whats a good jack point for the back?


Is this safe? [/IMG]

 

Just incase that link didn't work, Here's the direct link to the image.


<a href="http://s33.photobucket.com/user/blue...0d557.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...ps5320d557.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20140608_153432_068_zps5320d557.jpg"/></a>

 

im kinda stumped on a step while doing my brakes. im used to doing convention 1 or 2 piston calipers super easy. im confused on the small metal bracket thing that lays on top of the pads. how do i fit it in correctly? heres a pic of the brakes now

 

as it sits in the picture, its loose in there.

 

Clip (#3 in pic) is held in by Pin #4.

 

+1 Yes there are two pins that hold that Cross shaped spring clip.



Installed with pads.




Here is the JCW 4 piston BBK for reference and the individual front calipers.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34110432802/




Front calipers:

JCW 4 Pistion Caliper - Front Left

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34106856651/




&

JCW 4 Piston Caliper - Front Right Part # 34106856652

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34106856652/

Thanks

 

For the sake of the thread...

JCW red calipers do not need to be removed to change pads as some may have done with conventional OEM Calipers
The pads are held under tension by the "clip"
The clip is held in (there fore the pads) by the 2 pins
The 2 pins are "punched" out with IIIRC a 4 mm drift punch
The clip is oriented with the longer side facing up on reinstallation
The 4 big "weights" are there for vibration
You will need to compress the pistons prior to removing old pads.. be careful if not changing rotrs. Use a caliper compression tool or a BF screwdriver.. just dont mar the rotors.

Note .. when installing you will need to put some pressure on the clip to compress it so that the pin can be reinserted straight thru to the other side. Its kinda of a gotta be there issue.. Once you do it and see the effect youll be able to do it in 5 minutes..

I had a 128 with the BMW performance brakes that I tracked.. Including jacking up the car and getting the wheel off, i was able to do those pads (and they were much harder to do) HOT in 15 minutes a side.. no joke.. ive had those wheels off so many times and the pads changed that i had to replace lug bolts and caliper bolts due to "stretch"

Regards.

I know this wont help the OP.. But i hate to see "unfinished" Threads for future reference....Because thats why we are here.. For hep and Guidance for those that dont know but are willing to try.