Does your JCW's engine fan run after turning off the car?
#1
Does your JCW's engine fan run after turning off the car?
I have a 2011 JCW and nearly 90% of the time after I shut the motor the fan runs for around 30seconds before turning off. Even if I was driving very calm with under 2,000 RPM shifts it will still run for 30 seconds.
If I am pushing it it will run for a minute or more.
I bought the car used and the dealer told the service history shows that the temperature sensor was previously replaced. I wonder if it went bad again or is this normal?
Thanks
If I am pushing it it will run for a minute or more.
I bought the car used and the dealer told the service history shows that the temperature sensor was previously replaced. I wonder if it went bad again or is this normal?
Thanks
#4
#6
cfrea, my first run-on fix was a new sensor which wasn't effective, then another c/w thermostat a month later. This finally fixed the fan 'run-on'. When the cooling /thermostat problems became better-known later (via the Countryman) I asked for the final 'sensor-in-the-new-hose-plus-resited-electrical-take-off-cradle-fix' which was being done under 'service-bulletin'. Again, no run-on.
I have a feeling you might be some way along this process and might need to go a little further under warranty before the better quality/revised thermostat gives an accurate reading to your ECU, which controls the fan.
217-225F seems the 'acceptable' temp. range according to other posters on NAM. IMO 'they all run hot/a feature of the model' is not a platitude to accept for constant second-stage (warm engine) fan noise with the R56 derivatives, even with US temp extremity.
(Also I'm beginning to sense a correlation that an oil solenoid gasket leak behind the sump (US passenger side), which saturates the wiring harness, can lead to inaccurate sensor readings, too. I'd check the NAM posts under 'oil wicking issues' to see if it's relevant to your case, personally. This was something that needed to be fixed on my MCS; under warranty, of course.)
I have a feeling you might be some way along this process and might need to go a little further under warranty before the better quality/revised thermostat gives an accurate reading to your ECU, which controls the fan.
217-225F seems the 'acceptable' temp. range according to other posters on NAM. IMO 'they all run hot/a feature of the model' is not a platitude to accept for constant second-stage (warm engine) fan noise with the R56 derivatives, even with US temp extremity.
(Also I'm beginning to sense a correlation that an oil solenoid gasket leak behind the sump (US passenger side), which saturates the wiring harness, can lead to inaccurate sensor readings, too. I'd check the NAM posts under 'oil wicking issues' to see if it's relevant to your case, personally. This was something that needed to be fixed on my MCS; under warranty, of course.)
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#10
This happens on my mini cooper S 2013 sometimes. What is strange is it seems to come on after traffic from riding home from work but then punching it up to 100mph exiting the interstate doesnt turn the fan on. strange how that works out seeing as how i expected to run with higher rpm shifts. either way im still thinking about picking up a very basic 2 minute turbo timer. with 27.6 mpg i dont mind the car running for 1-2 minutes after exiting the vehicle.
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#18
I just had my water pump and thermostat housing replaced as they were leaking. On the drive home, my water temps (via scangauge) were at 225F for most of the drive (it reached 231F while cllimbing a hill). I left my car idling in the driveway for about 5 minutes and temps had only dropped a single degree. The fan was running the whole time. It's reasonably cold outside (38F or so) right now, so I have to wonder how the car will be when it's 100F this summer.
Prior to this fix, my car ran at 215F-220F, only ever reaching 222F on the hottest of days, and only then did I ever hear the fan after stopping the car.
Is this worth pointing out to my mechanic?
Prior to this fix, my car ran at 215F-220F, only ever reaching 222F on the hottest of days, and only then did I ever hear the fan after stopping the car.
Is this worth pointing out to my mechanic?
#19
I just had my water pump and thermostat housing replaced as they were leaking. On the drive home, my water temps (via scangauge) were at 225F for most of the drive (it reached 231F while cllimbing a hill). I left my car idling in the driveway for about 5 minutes and temps had only dropped a single degree. The fan was running the whole time. It's reasonably cold outside (38F or so) right now, so I have to wonder how the car will be when it's 100F this summer.
Prior to this fix, my car ran at 215F-220F, only ever reaching 222F on the hottest of days, and only then did I ever hear the fan after stopping the car.
Is this worth pointing out to my mechanic?
Prior to this fix, my car ran at 215F-220F, only ever reaching 222F on the hottest of days, and only then did I ever hear the fan after stopping the car.
Is this worth pointing out to my mechanic?
#20
Tu13es, sounds to me like you originally had one of the rare good 'stats and your mech's fitted one of what seems like a faulty batch. Your original temps seemed spot on.
In my experience of faulty electronic 'stats it doesn't seem to matter what the actual temp is, it's what the car's ecu thinks it is that controls the fan and it looks like your new 'stat (I presume it was replaced as part of the new housing) could be worse than the old one. I'd be minded to take it back and show the mech what it sounds like. That fan is noisy! I could just about put up with it in a 'spike' like crawling traffic on a very hot day but...
ps idling without an airflow through the rad isn't really likely to cool it down much; I'd expect the reverse to happen.
In my experience of faulty electronic 'stats it doesn't seem to matter what the actual temp is, it's what the car's ecu thinks it is that controls the fan and it looks like your new 'stat (I presume it was replaced as part of the new housing) could be worse than the old one. I'd be minded to take it back and show the mech what it sounds like. That fan is noisy! I could just about put up with it in a 'spike' like crawling traffic on a very hot day but...
ps idling without an airflow through the rad isn't really likely to cool it down much; I'd expect the reverse to happen.
Last edited by cjm; 02-28-2013 at 01:38 PM. Reason: extra added
#21
225F doesn't bug me so much as the difference between before and after the pump/t-stat were replaced.
I just took it out for another drive and same results. I also tried Max A/C and that seemed to have no effect on temps. I think something's up.
I just took it out for another drive and same results. I also tried Max A/C and that seemed to have no effect on temps. I think something's up.
#22
Tu13es, sounds to me like you originally had one of the rare good 'stats and your mech's fitted one of what seems like a faulty batch. Your original temps seemed spot on.
In my experience of faulty electronic 'stats it doesn't seem to matter what the actual temp is, it's what the car's ecu thinks it is that controls the fan and it looks like your new 'stat (I presume it was replaced as part of the new housing) could be worse than the old one. I'd be minded to take it back and show the mech what it sounds like. That fan is noisy! I could just about put up with it in a 'spike' like crawling traffic on a very hot day but...
ps idling without an airflow through the rad isn't really likely to cool it down much; I'd expect the reverse to happen.
In my experience of faulty electronic 'stats it doesn't seem to matter what the actual temp is, it's what the car's ecu thinks it is that controls the fan and it looks like your new 'stat (I presume it was replaced as part of the new housing) could be worse than the old one. I'd be minded to take it back and show the mech what it sounds like. That fan is noisy! I could just about put up with it in a 'spike' like crawling traffic on a very hot day but...
ps idling without an airflow through the rad isn't really likely to cool it down much; I'd expect the reverse to happen.
Re: idle temps, the fan was on, so I'd expect it to cool a bit. It did in the past, at least.
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#24
Indeed. I took it back to the shop, they verified I wasn't crazy and are taking a look at it tomorrow. Possibly a bad temp sensor. Could it also be some air got into the radiator or whatnot?
#25