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Does your JCW's engine fan run after turning off the car?
I have a 2011 JCW and nearly 90% of the time after I shut the motor the fan runs for around 30seconds before turning off. Even if I was driving very calm with under 2,000 RPM shifts it will still run for 30 seconds.
If I am pushing it it will run for a minute or more. I bought the car used and the dealer told the service history shows that the temperature sensor was previously replaced. I wonder if it went bad again or is this normal? Thanks |
My brand new Clubman S does this most of the time when I turn it off. Usually when I have been driving it hard.
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All our R56s, including the JCW have done this. They run very hot (225F) by design, so seem to need to be cooled after they stop.
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You can shift under 2k RPMs? Huh! :grin:
Seriously though, my fan always seems to run for a minute or so almost every time I shut down the engine. I asked service last time I passed by the dealership, and they said it's normal behavior. -Paul |
Not always, but most of the time.
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cfrea, my first run-on fix was a new sensor which wasn't effective, then another c/w thermostat a month later. This finally fixed the fan 'run-on'. When the cooling /thermostat problems became better-known later (via the Countryman) I asked for the final 'sensor-in-the-new-hose-plus-resited-electrical-take-off-cradle-fix' which was being done under 'service-bulletin'. Again, no run-on.
I have a feeling you might be some way along this process and might need to go a little further under warranty before the better quality/revised thermostat gives an accurate reading to your ECU, which controls the fan. 217-225F seems the 'acceptable' temp. range according to other posters on NAM. IMO 'they all run hot/a feature of the model' is not a platitude to accept for constant second-stage (warm engine) fan noise with the R56 derivatives, even with US temp extremity. (Also I'm beginning to sense a correlation that an oil solenoid gasket leak behind the sump (US passenger side), which saturates the wiring harness, can lead to inaccurate sensor readings, too. I'd check the NAM posts under 'oil wicking issues' to see if it's relevant to your case, personally. This was something that needed to be fixed on my MCS; under warranty, of course.) |
Sounds normal. My 2012 JCW has done that since new.
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ignitionmodule, with the greatest of respect I admire your acceptance of this issue on your JCW.
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I've read this multiple times happening to owners but mine has never done it.
-shrugs- |
This happens on my mini cooper S 2013 sometimes. What is strange is it seems to come on after traffic from riding home from work but then punching it up to 100mph exiting the interstate doesnt turn the fan on. strange how that works out seeing as how i expected to run with higher rpm shifts. either way im still thinking about picking up a very basic 2 minute turbo timer. with 27.6 mpg i dont mind the car running for 1-2 minutes after exiting the vehicle.
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You know the turbo has its own auxiliary cooling pump, so there's no need to use a turbo timer. The aux pump was the component which was recalled for earlier R56s because its control board had a habit of overheating and catching fire.
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After I purchased the M7 vortex scoop my fan goes on even less than I had a mesh grill which was less than the factory grill for scoop.
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My 2012 MCS has run the radiator cooling fan after shutoff since new. I don't consider it an issue; if it wants to cool itself off, so be it. It shuts down 30-90 seconds later.
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almost always regardless of temp
2012 JCW |
Mine normally runs for a minute or two after a hard run but if it is running longer than that I would check the oil level just in case.
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Originally Posted by IzzyG
(Post 3682267)
I've read this multiple times happening to owners but mine has never done it.
-shrugs- |
Only when I really romp on it!!!
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I just had my water pump and thermostat housing replaced as they were leaking. On the drive home, my water temps (via scangauge) were at 225F for most of the drive (it reached 231F while cllimbing a hill). I left my car idling in the driveway for about 5 minutes and temps had only dropped a single degree. The fan was running the whole time. It's reasonably cold outside (38F or so) right now, so I have to wonder how the car will be when it's 100F this summer.
Prior to this fix, my car ran at 215F-220F, only ever reaching 222F on the hottest of days, and only then did I ever hear the fan after stopping the car. Is this worth pointing out to my mechanic? |
Originally Posted by Tu13es
(Post 3688799)
I just had my water pump and thermostat housing replaced as they were leaking. On the drive home, my water temps (via scangauge) were at 225F for most of the drive (it reached 231F while cllimbing a hill). I left my car idling in the driveway for about 5 minutes and temps had only dropped a single degree. The fan was running the whole time. It's reasonably cold outside (38F or so) right now, so I have to wonder how the car will be when it's 100F this summer.
Prior to this fix, my car ran at 215F-220F, only ever reaching 222F on the hottest of days, and only then did I ever hear the fan after stopping the car. Is this worth pointing out to my mechanic? |
Tu13es, sounds to me like you originally had one of the rare good 'stats and your mech's fitted one of what seems like a faulty batch. Your original temps seemed spot on.
In my experience of faulty electronic 'stats it doesn't seem to matter what the actual temp is, it's what the car's ecu thinks it is that controls the fan and it looks like your new 'stat (I presume it was replaced as part of the new housing) could be worse than the old one. I'd be minded to take it back and show the mech what it sounds like. That fan is noisy! I could just about put up with it in a 'spike' like crawling traffic on a very hot day but... ps idling without an airflow through the rad isn't really likely to cool it down much; I'd expect the reverse to happen. |
Originally Posted by SuperGreg
(Post 3688815)
I'll start checking my temps and report back. I'm in AZ :)
I just took it out for another drive and same results. I also tried Max A/C and that seemed to have no effect on temps. I think something's up. |
Originally Posted by cjm
(Post 3688828)
Tu13es, sounds to me like you originally had one of the rare good 'stats and your mech's fitted one of what seems like a faulty batch. Your original temps seemed spot on.
In my experience of faulty electronic 'stats it doesn't seem to matter what the actual temp is, it's what the car's ecu thinks it is that controls the fan and it looks like your new 'stat (I presume it was replaced as part of the new housing) could be worse than the old one. I'd be minded to take it back and show the mech what it sounds like. That fan is noisy! I could just about put up with it in a 'spike' like crawling traffic on a very hot day but... ps idling without an airflow through the rad isn't really likely to cool it down much; I'd expect the reverse to happen. Re: idle temps, the fan was on, so I'd expect it to cool a bit. It did in the past, at least. |
Re: idle temps, the fan was on, so I'd expect it to cool a bit. It did in the past, at least.
That's what makes me feel that the 'stat + fan control aren't talking the same lingo or listening to each other yet again...Suspicious. |
Originally Posted by cjm
(Post 3688856)
Re: idle temps, the fan was on, so I'd expect it to cool a bit. It did in the past, at least.
That's what makes me feel that the 'stat + fan control aren't talking the same lingo or listening to each other yet again...Suspicious. |
Originally Posted by Tu13es
(Post 3688956)
Indeed. I took it back to the shop, they verified I wasn't crazy and are taking a look at it tomorrow. Possibly a bad temp sensor. Could it also be some air got into the radiator or whatnot? |
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