With just over 33K my clutch is starting to slip under load. I am going to check with my dealer to see if they will replace it. But I know with the clutch being a wear item, I am not placing my chips just yet on that happening. My question would be, what is a great aftermarket flywheel and clutch package and what is a good company to purchase it from. Thanks for any help.

 

Also, Just to add. I have never autocrossed (yet) and just drive it to and from work. I am looking for a lighter fly wheel as well. I did check out the search function, but did not really find anything.

 

Do a search for 'OS Giken'. That seems to be the go to performance clutch.

 

Crazy about so many clutch posts. I really hope this is a fluke or drivers style. Are people using the dead pedal between shifts or keeping their foot on the clutch pedal? If not using the dead pedal and keeping it on the clutch pedal then that would account for slippage and premature wear...

My foot is on the dead pedal all the time and only on the clutch when its needing a gear change. Even at a stop light.

 

I don't think it's drivers style. All but one of my vehicles have been M/T's in the last 21 years and all of the clutch assemblies lasted over 70,000 miles each. When those vehicles needed the assemblies changed, I've done it in my drive way or garage.

 

Something to keep in mind if you do plan on autocrossing with SCCA in the future is that in stock classes you do not have to have a stock clutch disk, but it has to be "essentially identical" to stock. Here's a quote from p.71 of the rulebook for you:

Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings, seals, gaskets, filters, belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors, clutch discs, pressure plates, suspension bushings, drivetrain mounts, fenders, trim pieces, may be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size, hardness, weight, material etc.), are used in the same location, and provide no performance benefit.

If you upgrade your clutch or flywheel to a non-stock equivalent, it bumps you into DSP in which you would get demolished. There's just no way for our cars to be competitive in that class, at least not at the national level. Now if you're planning on autocrossing for fun and never becoming nationally competitive (like most autocrossers) then this may not be a consideration for you, but it's just food for thought.

 

Thanks for the info

 

So zero posts about viable aftermarket clutch options...

My 2009 is slipping now with 50k miles. It is Evolve tuned so I am not looking to replace with stock clutch.

Upgrade options?

 

If you want an aftermarket clutch get the OS Giken.

But keep in mind you got 50k out of your stock clutch so it can't be that bad.

 

It's not that great either. My GTO has 125,000 miles on the ORIGINAL clutch and I drive that car hard.

 

+1x10^6

scott

 

What's crazy about it? A direct injected turbo that makes a huge surge of torque is very hard on a friction plate clutch. All that accelerating hard in 6th gear because you don't need to downshift with that wave of torque in daily driving takes its toll. Add in a tune that raises torque even more and it is to be expected very early, I'm surprised I got to 50k.

There is no free lunch. If you want an appliance drive a Camry.

Will look into the OS Giken...good time to upgrade to a real LSD too.

 

There is no free lunch, I like that. A lot of people don't realize that modifying anything on their car will have consequences, and parts are Honda Civic cheap either. Modding isn't for everyone, so best to know what your getting into.

 

I'm at about 51k on my 09 and my clutch still seems to be okay; I haven't noticed any cases of it slipping.

For the OS Giken, is ~$1800 for parts normal for a full clutch etc. replacement? I didn't realize they were so expensive! How would an OEM replacement compare?

Any idea on labor costs on this replacement? Or number of hours? I'd assume pretty high...

 

86,000 no slip. clutch engagement about 3/4 out.

 

I recently had my local dealership change my clutch under warranty. It was NOT slipping. The dealership just found the clutch pedal release to be high so it was a onetime courtesy. My SA also told me when they looked at my clutch there no excessive wear or burn marks. My car had 48K at the time. I had taken my car in for a once over before my 50K warranty expires.

 

Yeah that seems ridiculously high, I paid less for a full setup with billet pressure plate, flywheel, and carbon clutch for an M3! But I guess if that is the only game in town you will still pay to play. Stock is much less, depends on if the flywheel is bad or not but costs for the clutch kit is $350 from pelican. add ~$75 if you need to face flywheel and $900 if you need to replace because it is too warped or damaged

I'm not sure which way I am going to go.


I would like to know too... Time is a premium for me but so is money! I can swap the clutch in my M3 on a Saturday, but I am worried the transverse engine mounting will make it a lot harder. Never changed a clutch on fwd car, and I didn't find any info on this site for DIY guidance or even specialized tools etc. so I need to do more research about whether to pay myself to do it, or pay someone else.

 

I was told by Stewart (SA at MINI Charleston) that a clutch replacement is about $3k. I was told by someone else that it is because the whole front of the car has to be removed to get to it.

That's all I have.

Comments?