F57 Convert Top Stuck - Sunroof cables broke. How to manual open??

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Jul 25, 2025 | 04:24 PM

#51

dfgmini

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Joined: Jul 2025

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Roof Repair

I just wanted to say I used these instructions to repair my roof today. I have not completed any testing to see if it worked yet, as I am waiting for the epoxy to fully cure. I will add that there were a couple steps that did not work for me, so wanted to mention what I did. My roof was in the locked position, and prying on the hook latched to the A pillar did not work. To release roof I bent/cut a metal bracket so I had a hook that was approximately 1/8 of an inch thick, 1/4 of an inch tall and about 3/4 of an inch long on one end that could be inserted into the front of the rail. On my roof if I looked at the front of the rail, I could see some silver sticking out. The hook I made was used to push this back. With both sides pushed back I was able to push the roof forward and up, and it would pop open. You need to make sure the cables are pulled back (the motor worked, but roof wouldn’t move since the cables were detached). To open the hooks latched into the A pillar, there is a metal arm inside the rail where the roof first folds during operation. It is easiest to see after the cloth is pulled off the crossbar, but looking down the rail towards the back of the car you can see what looks like a knuckle. If you push on that with a screwdriver, the hook will release. Otherwise I followed the instructions provided, and was fairly simple. Took me 2-3 hours to get to the point I was ready for epoxy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bps

Unfortunately, the epoxy failed after 2 years. The repair the second time was much easier (I already had all the tools). I made a list of the steps so others might benefit. Took me 1 hr from disassemble to epoxy repair. I use JB Weld (2 part 5020psi) for metal to metal. Let it cure 24 hours before re-install. The reset can be tricky, the computer can get confused. Once the top is all the down, put it all the way back up once the repair is complete. I will add photos later. Here are the steps I wrote down:When the convertible top malfunctions, it is probably the cable mechanism that has dislodged from the carriage attached to the top (very very poor design BMW). Here are the steps to repair:

Remove the inner rail covers (they simply pop off.)
Remove the plastic strip along the inner roof (about 6 inches from the very front of the roof. Simply pull back to pull the strip off. Carefully peel the fabric taped to the end of the metal plate. You may need double sided tape to replace later.
Open the top enough to remove the front lip of the top. If the top is closed, you will have to pry the locking mechanism at the A-pillar open. Usually you can do this with a long screw driver near the lower outer edge of where the top meets the A-pillar.
Once the top is pried open slightly, you can slide the top back into the “sunroof” position with force sliding it back. If the cable is not attached, you should be able to move the cable back (sound of the motor and cable with no movement of the carriage) so that the cable is not blocking the path of movement of the top and carriages. You may need to take a screwdriver and hammer and bang the carriages towards the back of the car - they will lift UP and back as you bang them with the screwdriver (in line with the rail)
Remove the front edge of the canvas material starting at one front corner by pulling hard out and up toward the front until the hard plastic corner is removed from the metal plate beneath. You will have to un-tape the canvas top cable in the corner and unhook it to relieve tension on the top. It helps to open the back of the top (near the trunk) and prop it up on the closed tailgate to relieve tension on the top.
Using a very thin head screwdriver, release the tabs along the leading edge of the front of the top until you can pull back the top away from the metal plate. Flop the top back and out of the way. (see photos above)
Remove the large metal plate (only the outer 2 screws on the top of each carriage need to be removed). Slide the metal plate towards the BACK and UP to remove it (may require 2 people)
Remove the cross bar cover (middle of the roof). Be careful - this step requires minimum of 2 people. Remove the screws at either end. You will need the top pulled up at least 4-6 inches high to allow access to the screws on the ends (1 on each side). Have someone hold the piece inside the car while removing the screws. Once removed, pulled downward on the piece to release about 4 retaining tabs that hold it in place.
Remove the TOP plastic cover of each rail (left and right). The screw that holds it in place is located from UNDERNEATH the rail about half way on the cover (front to back). You will use a long allen torx head to remove it. The screw is hidding INSIDE the rail - look from below to locate it. Then, slide the piece toward the front about half an inch and lift up to remove
Remove the outer rail cover and window seal piece - 3 outer screws. Front, middle and back. The front screw is hidden within the rubber molding. Leave it in place, just unscrew it last and set the piece aside.
Remove Left and Right pin locking mechanisms. Remove 1 large outer screw in the center of rotation (torx head) and 3 very small inner screws (on the inside of the rail near the front). Pull the front part of the rail open slightly and PIVOT the locking pin mechanism OUT and DOWNWARD. Take tape to hold the piece together while completing the work, but leave it dangling from the rail. The tape is critical to maintain the piece together and not lose any parts. Watch for the small black thick washer - it falls off easily!
Remove the small pin located INSIDE the rail about 4 inches from the front end of the rail. Otherwise, you CANNOT remove the carriage mechanism. Use needle nose pliers to hold the small pin/nut with rubber washer around the pin. Use a PHILLIPS head (or in my UPDATED case - Hex Head) to remove the screw carefully. Be sure not to strip the head and not to lose the washer. Squeeze the pin very hard with the needle nose pliers if necessary to remove the screw. It should not damage the washer.
Now, slide the carriage mechanism all the way to the FRONT open end of the rail. You will need to apply some force to remove it. As you slide it out, be careful not to loose the beige plastic pieces (4 total - 2 on each side) while sliding it out. Work the carriage out gently after it starts to protrude from the rail and hold the entire piece with the beige plastic pieces in places (messy with lubricant - use gloves). NOTE the orientation and location of each (photograph) and mark the inner sides of each piece with an arrow pointing toward the front of the car to remember which goes where. Set the beige plastic pieces carefully off to the side. The rest of the carriage mechanism should be one mechanism..
Remove the cable motor (under the plastic mid-roof crossbar cover) by removing the 3 screws holding it to the roof. Gently wiggle it out. Check for any damage to the tubes containing the felt cables that move the carriages. Repair if needed.
Using a flat head screwdriver, slide the cables to the open end of the rails. Once you have enough out, you should be able to pull them out by hand. Carefully pull them out about 4-6 inches, but not too much.
Inspect for damage. You will need to make sure the end is able to slide back into position in the aluminum tube on each carriage. It can be a tight fit, but you will epoxy (JB Weld or similar) into the tube. Be VERY CAREFUL not to spill epoxy on the exterior. Coat the end of the cable that will be inserted as well as using a toothpick to coat the inside of the tube. You may need to drill the tube open to fit the cable, but don’t remove too much material. Very slight amount.
Let the epoxy cure overnight. Rest the carriage on a towel on the top of the window frame overnight.
Reverse the steps to replace the carriage into the top.
Slide the carriage about half way down the rail.
Reinstall the small pin and washer using needle nose pliers.
Reattach the locking roof pin and 3 small torx screws (inner rail side) and one large torx screw (outer point of rotation). You may have to pry the end of the rail open just slightly to reinsert. You will have to rotate the pin mechanism UP and Back into the rail prior to screwing back into place.
SLIDE the carriage back and forth to test the lubrication and smoothness. It should require SOME effort, but not too much. If it doesn’t slide at all, you have a problem.
MAKE SURE the carriages are the exact same length on both sides PRIOR to reattaching the motor on the cross bar. Measure 16 inches from the end of the rail to the protruding carriage where the metal plate attaches ON BOTH SIDES (left and right rails)
Reinstall the cable motor.
Double check the carriage location to ensure nothing moved. Even ⅛ inch of difference is TOO MUCH. Must be almost exact location on both rails (the carriages).
Now, test the roof mechanism WITHOUT attaching the metal plate and prior to attaching the rail covers and motor cover. Ensure the locking pins OPEN on both sides when the top is starting to move back (not the sunroof portion, but where the sunroof stops opening position.. The top should open and the locking pins should be open until the top is all the way open. It will slide forward slightly and lock the top in the open position.
Close the top and watch the carriage mechanisms. The locking pins on the ends should be OPEN while the top is moving closed. Once the pins LOCK, the carriages should move forward together (when the sunroof feature would normally be closing) until the carriages hit the small pin (with washer) and slide down closed to the top of the rail and forward to complete the sealing of the roof. The reverse should have the carriages move up and back and slide until the first stop position. Then the second movement of the top opening should have the locking pin mechanisms OPEN and the top lift UP and BACK to open the top. If this all works correctly, reinstall the rest of the top
First reattach the outer side rail covers with the window molding (3 screws with one still attached to the molding)
Next, reattach the top rail cover. Slide the front hook over the small pin and attach the screw from UNDERNEATH thru the rail (very tricky - need a long allen wrench with a torx head)
Next, attach the large metal plate on both sides (only the 2 outer most screws should have been removed). Test the roof again prior to reattaching the canvas roof. Make sure the canvas is flopped forward over the metal plate so it does not get stuck in the top while closing.
Once satisfied the roof carriages are operating correctly, reattach the canvas by starting with one corner of the hard plastic and work it over the front end of the metal plate. Work the other corner next. Attach the cables from the canvas top to the metal plate and cover with the black tape. Finish inserting the plastic tabs along the front edge of the metal plate of the canvas top.
Reattach the fabric inside the roof to the tape on the metal plate. Carefully slide the long plastic cover over the fabric underneath the roof to hold the fabric tight in place.
Reattach the inner side rail cover by popping into place. Hook the back end into place.
Reattach the cable motor cover on the middle cross bar in the roof by CAREFULLY popping the retaining clips back into place and reattaching the 2 screws (on on each side) with the top slightly open (raised about 4-6 inches).
The top should now be fixed and operational.

Sep 13, 2025 | 04:57 PM

#52

chtrich

1st Gear

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 14

Likes: 1

@bps , You are totally the man (or woman)! These instructions and google page of photos were fantastic! THANK YOU for taking the time to write up a detailed step by step guide. You saved me $5,000! I tried signing up for MINI TIS and that was worthless. You showed me exactly what I had to do.

I had the exact same issue, cable came lose. I followed all your steps and epoxy-ed the cable back in and wa-la, I have a working convertible top again!
The only step I had an issue with was number 12. That screw stripped so easily. I ended up having to Dremel it and make it a flathead instead. I think the trick is to hold the nut on the inside of the rail extra tight like you mentioned.

I had to repair the top on my R52 previously, but there was so much more information available for that one. So glad I found your post for my F57

Last edited by chtrich; Sep 13, 2025 at 06:37 PM.

Sep 21, 2025 | 08:02 AM

#53

Jpeh

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Joined: Aug 2025

Posts: 2

Likes: 0

From: Massachusetts

My 2017 F57 convertible s needs new cable

Hi everyone, this is my first posting.
The right side cable detach and I have re=attached with 2 part epoxy. The right side did not detach but was damaged with kinks and won't run smoothly. I removed it, and now I need to find a bare cable and I will detach it and replace with new one, but finding one is very difficult. I am now looking for at a mini glass sunroof cable that looks similar but can't tell if it is the same diameter, the length looks good and that can be shortened if needed. So I ordered one, they are inexpensive, prices range $45. - under $100. I will report back when it comes in next week. Has anyone solved this dilemma? your feedback is much appreciated.
Thanks
Jim