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I couldn't do the alignment myself, so I had the dealer do the alignment.($200)
As a result, the cable had been disconnected:-<
Will I end up having to replace the assembly?
i noticed something interesting.... on ebay i found a guy that is selling the arm for a 09-2015.... mine is 2016
so i looked around and that sunroof assembly looks VERY SIMILAR, I know that this is not the same part number
but take a look at the following link, the part looks exactly the same... im wondering it that would fit... again i only need the arm https://www.allmagautoparts.com/prod...42758076-09-15
On all the parts that are not in the system MINI etk, those are not a la carte. I have torn apart the r52 many times, seen the R57 apart. The F57 all i have is the etk and it does not show every little thing.
The R57 system should not be the same as the F57 part by part. But it maybe similar construction? Worth a shot.
On the R57+ models you cannot get those parts sperate, just some hardware and hardware kits.
The green cables clamp onto that end and then at the factory they are pinch in construction until they bind and them come apart.
FWIW.....my new 2016 F57 sunroof assembly installed at the Mini dealer came to $5000. Hopefully your epoxy repair will last as you certainly did save significant money. Not sure about you but this expensive repair has caused me to think differently about this 3rd Generation Mini. Hopefully the new sunroof assembly is constructed better than the original. Would certainly be interested in knowing how many individuals are experiencing top failures.
Hi everyone, i have 2016 cooper convertible F-57 .. and i am facing the same issue with cables that are detached, i tried to follow the repair in the youtube video. but i am having hard time bringing the roof back to relief the tension from the roof cloth to be able to remove it and expose the metal frame under it, do you have any idea how to manually retract the roof back a bit, to relief the tension?
Thanks
Sorry - it has been over a year since the repair, but my recollection when detaching the fabric roof covering from the metal plate (where it meets the front windshield) is to just PULL very hard (starting at one of the corners) OUT and UP. Next, you will need to use a long, flat screwdriver to release the plastic tabs from the metal plate by sliding the screwdriver (about 16+ tabs as I recall). It is easier to release the front edge of the top with the roof open about 3-6 inches (removes some of the tension of the fabric). Hope the photos help!
Open the top slightly to release tension on the fabric to remove the top from the metal plate. Corner of fabric roof pulled OUT and UP to remove (do at both corners prior to releasing the plastic tabs (much easier that way) Plastic "tabs" that are hooked into the metal plate tabs that must be "unhooked" or released using a long flathead screwdriver (or similar tool). Carefully remove the tape holding down the end of the cable. You will have to unhook the cable in order to lift the fabric back once you remove the tabs. You can reuse the tape if you are careful not to touch it (I repositioned it while doing the repair to prevent dust and dirt from sticking to it.) Cable attached to the fabric that must be unhooked from the metal plate. Finished removal.
hey BPS,
thank you so much for the quick reply, i really appreciate it. i have reached up to the point of releasing the tab with the screw driver, the issues that i am currently facing is how can i bring back the roof a little bit to the back, like you have it here? since my roof is all the way forward, which has a lot of tension on the fabric that i cannot pull it.
i am trying to get my roof to be like this in the photo, but since the cables are not attached, it has to be done manually somehow.
Thanks again for the help.
2016 Cooper F57. I have the same issue with the hood left side stuck closed, the right is opening with the motor only. Taking the motor off located over your head, I can see the cable moving when I insert a flatblade and push the cable manually and the hood stays stationary. There, just saved 150 to be told the same at the dealers The cable is broken.....
As the hood is closed and locked, the material is tight, can i just force the finger hook away from the A pillar with the motor removed? I also see a little spring loaded lever inside
of the left side arm. Is this a lock mechanism? and can this be released? I would like to see what is the issue myself before I am charged 3000+ for a replacement sunroof assembly as the dealers call the front half of the cabrio frame.
From this thread, I see I'm not the only one to have this issue.. any one with knowledge of this can you share with me??
You can try pulling the cables back and then trying to release that hinge manually. BPS has taken it apart, maybe they can chime. In a I have taken apart the R52 and R57 one, not the F57 one. Looks like close to the same design.
I bet you need that top part to slide back to get to those cables. Also a lot of the F57 stuff is not sold on its own, so no repair kit. Just individual kits for select sections of the top. Those little boxes in the diagrams are select repair kits but i don't see any wit cables or latches. Most of its hardware and clips.
Thanks, but as you say there are no cable replacements or kits. Real oem only show the two sides and the mid Cross section as one part at 1800+. The cables,latches sliders are all in the replacement. It's maybe because the labour costs to remove replace and re adjust the cables is near to the replacements parts, or they just can't be bothered or not skilled enough as its not plug and play.
After poking about the spring and cam bit seems to be the sensor that activates the hood not latched alarm. This is only on the left side. Its activated by a small pin attached to the lock mechanism slider. With the cable unattached or the motor removed, with the aid of a flat blade you CAN open the latch. At the moment the hood is stuck at the left but the latch is open and free of the A pillar.
What with Christmas, New year and three kings, its now not a good time to order a new frame from the dealer if it has to come from Germany, if thats what it needs, so I am going to relatch it and restart in January.
@Pugwash not sure where you are on this, but if you did not proceed then this may be helpful: if the hook is loose (so the roof is not locked to the A-style) on both sides then you can (with two people) carefully open the roof a bit. So not the sunroof, but the whole roof. If you unscrew the screw on the left back side that holds the motor (see the manual) then the roof opens easier. Once it's open a bit, then you can reach the torx 20 screw that holds the cover over your head that hides the sunroof motor.
Unfortunately, the epoxy failed after 2 years. The repair the second time was much easier (I already had all the tools). I made a list of the steps so others might benefit. Took me 1 hr from disassemble to epoxy repair. I use JB Weld (2 part 5020psi) for metal to metal. Let it cure 24 hours before re-install. The reset can be tricky, the computer can get confused. Once the top is all the down, put it all the way back up once the repair is complete. I will add photos later. Here are the steps I wrote down:When the convertible top malfunctions, it is probably the cable mechanism that has dislodged from the carriage attached to the top (very very poor design BMW). Here are the steps to repair:
Remove the inner rail covers (they simply pop off.)
Remove the plastic strip along the inner roof (about 6 inches from the very front of the roof. Simply pull back to pull the strip off. Carefully peel the fabric taped to the end of the metal plate. You may need double sided tape to replace later.
Open the top enough to remove the front lip of the top. If the top is closed, you will have to pry the locking mechanism at the A-pillar open. Usually you can do this with a long screw driver near the lower outer edge of where the top meets the A-pillar.
Once the top is pried open slightly, you can slide the top back into the “sunroof” position with force sliding it back. If the cable is not attached, you should be able to move the cable back (sound of the motor and cable with no movement of the carriage) so that the cable is not blocking the path of movement of the top and carriages. You may need to take a screwdriver and hammer and bang the carriages towards the back of the car - they will lift UP and back as you bang them with the screwdriver (in line with the rail)
Remove the front edge of the canvas material starting at one front corner by pulling hard out and up toward the front until the hard plastic corner is removed from the metal plate beneath. You will have to un-tape the canvas top cable in the corner and unhook it to relieve tension on the top. It helps to open the back of the top (near the trunk) and prop it up on the closed tailgate to relieve tension on the top.
Using a very thin head screwdriver, release the tabs along the leading edge of the front of the top until you can pull back the top away from the metal plate. Flop the top back and out of the way. (see photos above)
Remove the large metal plate (only the outer 2 screws on the top of each carriage need to be removed). Slide the metal plate towards the BACK and UP to remove it (may require 2 people)
Remove the cross bar cover (middle of the roof). Be careful - this step requires minimum of 2 people. Remove the screws at either end. You will need the top pulled up at least 4-6 inches high to allow access to the screws on the ends (1 on each side). Have someone hold the piece inside the car while removing the screws. Once removed, pulled downward on the piece to release about 4 retaining tabs that hold it in place.
Remove the TOP plastic cover of each rail (left and right). The screw that holds it in place is located from UNDERNEATH the rail about half way on the cover (front to back). You will use a long allen torx head to remove it. The screw is hidding INSIDE the rail - look from below to locate it. Then, slide the piece toward the front about half an inch and lift up to remove
Remove the outer rail cover and window seal piece - 3 outer screws. Front, middle and back. The front screw is hidden within the rubber molding. Leave it in place, just unscrew it last and set the piece aside.
Remove Left and Right pin locking mechanisms. Remove 1 large outer screw in the center of rotation (torx head) and 3 very small inner screws (on the inside of the rail near the front). Pull the front part of the rail open slightly and PIVOT the locking pin mechanism OUT and DOWNWARD. Take tape to hold the piece together while completing the work, but leave it dangling from the rail. The tape is critical to maintain the piece together and not lose any parts. Watch for the small black thick washer - it falls off easily!
Remove the small pin located INSIDE the rail about 4 inches from the front end of the rail. Otherwise, you CANNOT remove the carriage mechanism. Use needle nose pliers to hold the small pin/nut with rubber washer around the pin. Use a PHILLIPS head (or in my UPDATED case - Hex Head) to remove the screw carefully. Be sure not to strip the head and not to lose the washer. Squeeze the pin very hard with the needle nose pliers if necessary to remove the screw. It should not damage the washer.
Now, slide the carriage mechanism all the way to the FRONT open end of the rail. You will need to apply some force to remove it. As you slide it out, be careful not to loose the beige plastic pieces (4 total - 2 on each side) while sliding it out. Work the carriage out gently after it starts to protrude from the rail and hold the entire piece with the beige plastic pieces in places (messy with lubricant - use gloves). NOTE the orientation and location of each (photograph) and mark the inner sides of each piece with an arrow pointing toward the front of the car to remember which goes where. Set the beige plastic pieces carefully off to the side. The rest of the carriage mechanism should be one mechanism..
Remove the cable motor (under the plastic mid-roof crossbar cover) by removing the 3 screws holding it to the roof. Gently wiggle it out. Check for any damage to the tubes containing the felt cables that move the carriages. Repair if needed.
Using a flat head screwdriver, slide the cables to the open end of the rails. Once you have enough out, you should be able to pull them out by hand. Carefully pull them out about 4-6 inches, but not too much.
Inspect for damage. You will need to make sure the end is able to slide back into position in the aluminum tube on each carriage. It can be a tight fit, but you will epoxy (JB Weld or similar) into the tube. Be VERY CAREFUL not to spill epoxy on the exterior. Coat the end of the cable that will be inserted as well as using a toothpick to coat the inside of the tube. You may need to drill the tube open to fit the cable, but don’t remove too much material. Very slight amount.
Let the epoxy cure overnight. Rest the carriage on a towel on the top of the window frame overnight.
Reverse the steps to replace the carriage into the top.
Slide the carriage about half way down the rail.
Reinstall the small pin and washer using needle nose pliers.
Reattach the locking roof pin and 3 small torx screws (inner rail side) and one large torx screw (outer point of rotation). You may have to pry the end of the rail open just slightly to reinsert. You will have to rotate the pin mechanism UP and Back into the rail prior to screwing back into place.
SLIDE the carriage back and forth to test the lubrication and smoothness. It should require SOME effort, but not too much. If it doesn’t slide at all, you have a problem.
MAKE SURE the carriages are the exact same length on both sides PRIOR to reattaching the motor on the cross bar. Measure 16 inches from the end of the rail to the protruding carriage where the metal plate attaches ON BOTH SIDES (left and right rails)
Reinstall the cable motor.
Double check the carriage location to ensure nothing moved. Even ⅛ inch of difference is TOO MUCH. Must be almost exact location on both rails (the carriages).
Now, test the roof mechanism WITHOUT attaching the metal plate and prior to attaching the rail covers and motor cover. Ensure the locking pins OPEN on both sides when the top is starting to move back (not the sunroof portion, but where the sunroof stops opening position.. The top should open and the locking pins should be open until the top is all the way open. It will slide forward slightly and lock the top in the open position.
Close the top and watch the carriage mechanisms. The locking pins on the ends should be OPEN while the top is moving closed. Once the pins LOCK, the carriages should move forward together (when the sunroof feature would normally be closing) until the carriages hit the small pin (with washer) and slide down closed to the top of the rail and forward to complete the sealing of the roof. The reverse should have the carriages move up and back and slide until the first stop position. Then the second movement of the top opening should have the locking pin mechanisms OPEN and the top lift UP and BACK to open the top. If this all works correctly, reinstall the rest of the top
First reattach the outer side rail covers with the window molding (3 screws with one still attached to the molding)
Next, reattach the top rail cover. Slide the front hook over the small pin and attach the screw from UNDERNEATH thru the rail (very tricky - need a long allen wrench with a torx head)
Next, attach the large metal plate on both sides (only the 2 outer most screws should have been removed). Test the roof again prior to reattaching the canvas roof. Make sure the canvas is flopped forward over the metal plate so it does not get stuck in the top while closing.
Once satisfied the roof carriages are operating correctly, reattach the canvas by starting with one corner of the hard plastic and work it over the front end of the metal plate. Work the other corner next. Attach the cables from the canvas top to the metal plate and cover with the black tape. Finish inserting the plastic tabs along the front edge of the metal plate of the canvas top.
Reattach the fabric inside the roof to the tape on the metal plate. Carefully slide the long plastic cover over the fabric underneath the roof to hold the fabric tight in place.
Reattach the inner side rail cover by popping into place. Hook the back end into place.
Reattach the cable motor cover on the middle cross bar in the roof by CAREFULLY popping the retaining clips back into place and reattaching the 2 screws (on on each side) with the top slightly open (raised about 4-6 inches).
I would push it and have someone else unlock the cables from the motor on the top and slide it back. Or take it to a local convertible top place that deals with Haartz or Webasto tops. Thats the OEM manufacture and they make top for domestic high end cars.
If you can find a local install shop that does those you will find somone who can work on it.
Just curious.... Considering I live in Ohio and relatively close to ECS Tuning (Wadsworth), who do you recommend for convertible top repair here in Ohio? Seems like convertible top repair and replacement specialists are few and far between. Always concerns me about convertible tops considering the window is integrated into the top.
Any information you can provide would certainly put my mind aat ease about owning an F57 here in Ohio.
We can supply the parts but we dont work on customers cars here.
I do all my own work so I have never used a place but in know Hot Rod shops that work with haartz tops (factory for Corvette and others) are the places people go.
Has anyone done a replacement of the sunroof assembly on their own? I cannot find anything online other than the links to purchase the part(s).
The bracket that holds the cables completely broke on one side and mangled one of the cables, I don't see how I can come back from that without replacing the entire thing. The cable is so badly twisted I cannot slide it out of the guiding tube. Dealer quoted me for $4800 which is more or less in line with the others here. @ECS Tuning do you know if the assembly includes the motor does that need to purchased separately? Don't see a references to it in realoem so I assume the slides, cables and motor are all included.
I am reasonably handy - trying to figure out if it is worth doing it myself.
Mine is an F57, either way, thank you for your help.
Ended up paying $4800 to get it replaced - I pulled it apart a bit but did not want to risk screwing up installing a $3000 part.
Mine is an F57, either way, thank you for your help.
Ended up paying $4800 to get it replaced - I pulled it apart a bit but did not want to risk screwing up installing a $3000 part.
Smart choice imho to have the dealership do it. I consider myself mechanically inclined also but did not want to chance damaging other items.
Do you also have problems with wobbly convertible top switch? Concerned that also may fail someday.
There is a little bit of "free play" but nothing serious. The "sunroof" mechanism is pretty crappy, it's not a feature like they advertise but an engineering need since they would not be able to fold the roof properly with such a stubby back. I wish they would engineer it to last or at least to replace easily.
The cable is broken.....
