This weekend, at 4400 miles on my 2014 MCS, I got under the car and changed the oil. From day one, I was never going to just follow only the Boot to Bonnet No Cost Maintenance schedule, as to me, every 10K miles is crazy! If you think spending $60 bucks and an hour or so of your time, to protect your engine in between the manufacturer's recommended change schedule, is excessive, then rock on. I will certainly take advantage of the Mini service that I've paid for in the cost of my vehicle, but I will also change the oil in between their schedule. I personally feel that frequent oil changes (every 4K - 5K) is a cheap and easy method to ensuring a longer life for your engine.

So, for those that want to change their own oil but haven't yet - here are the steps. It's extremely easy and a way to stay in touch with your Mini and feel good about yourself at the same time.

I noticed that some drivers on this Forum remove the entire undercarriage cover to get greater access to oil drain and filter housing. I went with trying to change the oil just using the two access panels to see how easy or not it is.

• Ensure the engine has been run and is warmed to operating temperature.
• Either jack up the car and place on jack stands or drive the front of the wheels onto a pair of ramps. For my F56 I will simply use the ramps. It's quick and easy.
• Open the hood and then open the oil fill cap to allow the old oil to drain easier.
• Getting access to the oil drain plug and the oil filter housing is as simple as turning the plastic housing retainers and then flipping the access panels open. The access panels are located towards the passenger side of the engine (see the first photo). From underneath, you can't miss the outline of the panels. The retainers holding them closed can be turned by hand, no coins or tools needed.
• The oil drain plug takes a 17 mm hex socket. Place a good sized oil pan under the rear access panel, remove the plug with your 17mm socket, and drain the oil. Take caution, the oil will be hot. Let this drain completely and then replace the drain plug so you can move the oil catch pan to under the oil filter housing.
• The filter element canister has a separate drain plug. Don't skip this step!!!! There is quite a bit of oil still in the filter canister and simply removing the canister will ensure you get hot oil all over the place. Use a 13 mm socket with an extender to open this plug and drain the oil out of the canister. You can replace the plug when complete to stop any further oil dripping while you remove the canister itself.
• Using a 32 mm hex socket, I found that I needed not only a socket extender but also an angle attachment (see the second photo). Remove the oil filter canister.
• I ordered the Oil Filter Kit w/ O-ring from ECS Tuning plus 5 quarts of the Mini Synthetic 5W-30. The kit and oil are affordable, shipped quickly, and had all the right parts (including the larger sized oil filter element - part no. 11 42 8 570 590).
• Take off the old gasket from the canister, apply some oil to the new gasket and replace it onto the filter canister. I also replaced the drain plug in the bottom of the canister housing (since the kit came with a new one, not sure if all new kits have this or not). Then installed the new filter element into the housing. When putting the canister back into the access panel, you will need to use a bit of force to get the oil filter onto the oil flow tube on the engine. The hole in the top of the filter itself will fit snugly onto the tube/pipe. It will sort of "pop on" the first time. At this point, then you can begin to screw the bottom of the filter canister back onto the engine. I didn't bother with torquing it to a certain spec, but made sure it was on snug. At this time, also ensure the smaller drain plug that you previously replaced on the canister is also on snug and firm but not over tightened.
• With the new filter element replaced and that part of the job finished, open the oil drain plug again after placing the used catch oil container back underneath. You will have more oil that will drain out! Let this complete, and then replace the old o-ring with the new o-ring from the kit (it may still be in place on the oil pan or it may have fallen into the used oil container; mine was still on the oil pan). Replace the plug, tighten, and clean any residue on the pan with a rag. Again, I don't torque this, personal preference. I go by feel.
• Restore the access panels and close the retainers. I was impressed that I got little to no used oil splatters on the panels.
• Now fill you car with the 5 quarts of Mini oil. I initially added 4.5 quarts and later checked the oil level with Mini's handy electronic oil level process (I miss the dip stick!!!). It required another half a quart so I added the rest and it's all good. This amount matches the used amount of oil that I removed (5 quarts). Close the oil fill cap and wipe down any dirt, debris, and oil drips.

UPDATE: The amount of oil used in the F56 MCS is actually 5L (5.3 quarts) - Unfortunately quantities of liquids are not documented anywhere in the Owner's Manual (appalling actually). I have driven over 500 miles since this oil change and the 5 quarts I put into the car never got the electronic oil level gauge up to the full mark. I then decide to add 1/3 of a more quart of oil which would then equate to 5 liters and bingo, I'm at the full mark on the electronic "dipstick" (ah yes, a dipstick would have been much more effective throughout this whole process). Actually, just put the fluid quantity in the Owner's Manual and I would never have to put so much effort into this very basic vehicle maintenance job.

• The next day, to confirm I performed everything correctly, I checked both access panels for signs of oil drips; no drips and all looks good.

Good luck to all. I recommend you get in there and change your oil in between the Boot to Bonnet No Cost Maintenance schedule. Your Mini will love it!

Plus, the next time I perform this oil change service, it will go even faster.

 

GREAT write up and info. Really appreciate the socket specs and special tools needed. Thank you for taking the time.....especially noting that this can be done easily and help everyone become more independent of the dealer...Good Job!

 

I echo D.D.'s sentiments, thank you for this phenomenal write up :-)

 

Great write up! Thank you.
Will be using your procedures if I ever get my car out of this EPA holdup. :-)

 

Are you going to get your oil analyzed? I'd be interested in comparing the results to the results from the guy that changed his oil at 1000 miles.

 

As I'm one of those folks that remove the entire underpan (I have access to a lift which helps) you didn't say if anything got on the underpan from just opening the "doors." I think the oil filter door is just too darn small to effectively access the housing easily, but for removing the drain plug it's probably OK. I've do two oil changes now (1K & 5K) and will now be on an every 5K schedule. Did a second oil analysis at 5K and everything is good and moving in the right direction.

 

Quite frankly, I'm not that interested enough to get the oil analyzed. It would be great to know the results, but either way, it won't change anything for me. One thing of interest that I noticed was how much lighter in color the Mini Synthetic 5W-30 appears to be right out of the bottle. Plus how much darker the oil is coming out of the vehicle (although my understanding of synthetic oils is that this is normal as they contain lots of detergents and additives that keeps the engine clean and pulls much of the moisture out of the system).

 

Honestly, I'm just going to continue using the two access panels when performing future oil changes. No doubt, the access you get inside these panels isn't that great; the oil drain plug access is fine, access to the oil filter is a bit more cumbersome, but doable. I may from time to time take the entire underpan off just to inspect everything - maybe I'll do this on my next oil change just to see the difference. Regardless, I was able to not get oil on this "cardboard" underpan. I can't imagine that would be the case if I didn't predrain the oil from the filter element canister first before unscrewing the whole thing. There is a surprising amount of oil still in that canister, which I'm sure would have splashed everywhere without the predrain step.

 

Where do you dispose of the used oil? I'm really surprised people still take the time to change their own oil. Get dirty, etc. For $60, I can take it to my local shop and get full synthetic and it takes them less than thirty minutes. I'm going to do this every 5000 miles, and then take to the dealer the other 5000 miles, and keep alternating like that. I do agree that 10,000 miles is down right stupid to drive between oil changes.

 

$49.99 @ the dealer.......in and out in 45minutes or less.
OEM oil, filter, and the peace of mind it is done correctly.

Ever hear of the guy who drove off to work the next day and droped the oil out a loose plug or filter?
Cost him a new engine, and for saving very little cash.......Nightmare!?!?!?

I hear and see PEEPS talk about the dealers like they have a virus or something.
Don't understand the inability to have a good relationship with the dealer whom sold you the car to start with. But I guess it happens.

They pay for the 1 year/10,000k
I pay for the 6 month/5,000k

Great trade off, yes?

Motor On Guys n Gals

 

Any auto parts store that sells eninge oil in my area... PepBoys, AutoZone, etc.

For me, it just makes me feel better when I do my own maintenance on my vehicles.

 

Does anyone know the torque spec for following?

> 17 mm (main) Drian Plug
> 13 mm (filter canister) Drian Plug
> 32 mm Filter Housing

 

I take the used oil to Autozone. They take back pretty much everything (except hydraulic fluid), including old parts like rotors. I'm sure the other parts chains offer the same service. I've been taking care of my own vehicles for some time now. If nothing else, it's a great way to "know" what's going on with your car, and I have the confidence it's done right. I have a European shop that I have a great relationship with; if I'm not confident about what I need to do, I'll take my cars there. I've never been a fan of dealerships for several reasons.

 

Nice write up papawiskey. And thanks for the order.

Oil Filter kits: We have single, 5 , and 10 packs.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2728689__ES2771444___ES2771445/



** Update **

Oil change kits, without and with the metal drain plug ( bottom pan ), not the one on the oil housing ( that comes in the filter kit ) We just added these.

Since the change increase in actual verse somewhat informed showed a .3 increase in oil on the 2.0 . We updated our kits.

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F56 MINI Cooper S ( 2.0L ) Kits ( S models )


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2763512_ES2804733/



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F56 MINI Cooper ( 1.5L ) Kits ( Justa Cooper )


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2763515__ES2804732/




Also here is the 32mm socket for the oil change its will give you a little more room.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2730723/




Then for the little extra left in the last bottle from the oil change, MINI has a spare oil. 83292158849 , fits nice in the trunk ( boot ) Attaches with Velcro built in.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/83292158849/ES2159795/






Also changing your own oil lets you get familiar with your engine. At least with me.

Thanks

 

I know that Mini recommends Castrol.
Is there any reason to buy the Mini branded bottles vs castrol 5 gallon jugs?

What weight does the F56 S call for?

 

I've been using 5W-30 Mobil 1, but Mini says 0W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-40 are acceptable also.

 

Thanks for the link!
That price is much better than what I paid (>$20).
I thought buying a multi-pack would save even more $$ but guess not in this case, but still a good price.

 

BTW anyone know if Fumoto valves work on thr F56?

 

Anyone know which oil i can buy locally for the F56 S?
Castrol Gold or Black bottle? And what weight?

 

You need to read the manual for your vehicle.

 

The same thing can happen if you bring your car to the dealership. The only difference is that you actually care about your own car versus the dealership doing dozens of oil changes a day. When I owned my MINIs and had services done at the dealership I would always have to take it back a week later because they messed something up. I even got home one time only to look under the bonnet to see a hose clamp from a hose to my radiator just dangling. It had never been retightened. They also forgot to reclip in the solenoid valve sensor essentially making the turbo not work. They couldn't find the issue after I brought it back to them because it wasn't throwing a code. I found it in 5 minutes on my own afterwards.

Sorry for the rant, but things like this are why people don't trust dealerships. Plus an oil change is very simple maintenance that you can have done in less time than it would take to drive to the shop.

 

I know that Mini recommends Castrol but I'm really curious to know what the dealers use when they change the oil. My money's on the Mini/BMW 5W-30. Has anyone actually asked what the dealers use?

I'm always skeptical that these "recommendations" are more of a financial "agreement" between both parties, just like how many other German car-makers "recommend" Mobil 1.

 

"what the MINI dealers use when they change the oil ?"


Same kit I have linked above. The oil has to meet BMW / MINI LL-01 spec among others.

 

$80 and 2 hours later first oil change is complete at Seattle MINI with 3200miles on the odo. Kind of ridiculous but I don't plan on a non-factory schedule change again so only have to deal with it every 10k

 

You should seriously consider changing the oil consistently no more than every 5K miles. And quite frankly that's only if you're driving your Mini more than just short trips to and fro (your commute gets the car up to operating temperature to allow it to burn off the moisture in the engine) . Consistent short stop and go trips falls under the severe maintenance schedule, the harshest conditions for motor oil and your Mini's engine. Do your car a favor and spend the little money and time it takes to keep it in great condition. It'll last "forever".