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Does the "time to change oil" indicator automatically clear once the computer senses new oil or do you have to clear that thru the controls somehow? My jeep you press the gas peddle a certain number of times, the other car use the steering wheel buttons.
Thanks. I have no problem doing my own oil changes but I did purchase the 7 year / 70,000 mile warranty just 8 months ago, to have the first few by the dealer and any software updates done and already at 35,000 miles.... yep, 125 miles a day for work adds up fast. I'll be adding the quick drain plug as well when I do that first change myself.
That Stahlbus quick connect looks pretty nice, may consider it at a later date. I ran an Aeroquip one on my former Subie (see below) and loved it, especially since Subaru decided to use an M20 drain plug...talk about fire hose drain rates! The Aeroquip made drains so much easier and cleaner. The new owner of my Subie called to thank me for installing it when he changed the oil, so at least someone else will get to enjoy it as well.
2019 JCW.....factory oil out at 750 miles. roughly 5.5 qts in the crankcase and filter, so i think going with 5.3 qts is prudent. btw, if converting to a canister, be aware you won't be able to get a cap wrench over the filter due to clearances. don't over-tighten. oh, and i agree with getting oil out early and often. with the direct injection and tight pcv, 4k miles seems about right to me, but time will tell. next change will be first oil analysis.
Oil change, 6000 miles, 10 months.
Did my oil change on my F56. It's been about 10 months since my last free oil change from the dealer.
The filter housing was very tight. I don't know how that would have come off if I hadn't taken off the entire bottom cover, and use 3 ft torque wrench to get it off.
I installed Fumoto valve while I was down there.
Saw some oil fume mess near the starter motor. I wonder what that is.
I took out little over 4 qt, put in exactly 4 qt. It sucks that there's no dip stick. After driving a while, checked the oil level and measurement shows right on, but not up to FULL mark, so I'm not going to bother filling it up any further.
I used less force than when I was releasing the oil filter housing when I put it back together as I'm used to the hand-snug filters.
It's been just over 6200 miles over the 10 months, but the oil was really dark black. I'll probably do my next oil change in 6-8 months from now.
Oil change, 6000 miles, 10 months.
Did my oil change on my F56. It's been about 10 months since my last free oil change from the dealer.
The filter housing was very tight. I don't know how that would have come off if I hadn't taken off the entire bottom cover, and use 3 ft torque wrench to get it off.
I installed Fumoto valve while I was down there.
Saw some oil fume mess near the starter motor. I wonder what that is.
I took out little over 4 qt, put in exactly 4 qt. It sucks that there's no dip stick. After driving a while, checked the oil level and measurement shows right on, but not up to FULL mark, so I'm not going to bother filling it up any further.
I used less force than when I was releasing the oil filter housing when I put it back together as I'm used to the hand-snug filters.
It's been just over 6200 miles over the 10 months, but the oil was really dark black. I'll probably do my next oil change in 6-8 months from now.
m
if you have the B46/48 motor it should take 4 Liters not 4 quarts. That’s about 4.23 quarts.
Thanks for the guide!
I just did a break-in oil change on my new 2019 MCS at ~650 miles. After tons of time on the internet, on the phone with my dealership's part department, and in local auto stores, I went with Castrol GTX 0W-20 and a BMW filter I had bought at my dealership.
Everything went smoothly, and the used oil was SUPER dark brown and dirty looking already. I know synthetic is supposed to do something like that, but it looked awful for sloshing around a brand new engine. Will probably change again at 3000-4000 miles just to see how the oil looks (damn this lack of a dipstick, it's good for so much more than just checking the oil level :( )
I agree Thomas, a dipstick is important for more than just looking at the oil level! I think BMW missed the mark on this one! Some owners actually DO KNOW a few things about engine health!
B48/B46 engine should be 5.3 LITERS (5.6 quarts). Not 4 quarts or 4 liters. These wide variations in fill amounts show that the electronic oil level system is +- a wide amount. Dealer tech told me it wasn't very accurate.Wish I had a dipstick.
Joe
B48/46 engine is 2.0l 4 cly.
Last edited by Jstancampiano; Jul 15, 2019 at 07:44 AM.
Reason: info
This weekend, at 4400 miles on my 2014 MCS, I got under the car and changed the oil. From day one, I was never going to just follow only the Boot to Bonnet No Cost Maintenance schedule, as to me, every 10K miles is crazy! If you think spending $60 bucks and an hour or so of your time, to protect your engine in between the manufacturer's recommended change schedule, is excessive, then rock on. I will certainly take advantage of the Mini service that I've paid for in the cost of my vehicle, but I will also change the oil in between their schedule. I personally feel that frequent oil changes (every 4K - 5K) is a cheap and easy method to ensuring a longer life for your engine.
So, for those that want to change their own oil but haven't yet - here are the steps. It's extremely easy and a way to stay in touch with your Mini and feel good about yourself at the same time.
I noticed that some drivers on this Forum remove the entire undercarriage cover to get greater access to oil drain and filter housing. I went with trying to change the oil just using the two access panels to see how easy or not it is.
Ensure the engine has been run and is warmed to operating temperature.
Either jack up the car and place on jack stands or drive the front of the wheels onto a pair of ramps. For my F56 I will simply use the ramps. It's quick and easy.
Open the hood and then open the oil fill cap to allow the old oil to drain easier.
Getting access to the oil drain plug and the oil filter housing is as simple as turning the plastic housing retainers and then flipping the access panels open. The access panels are located towards the passenger side of the engine (see the first photo). From underneath, you can't miss the outline of the panels. The retainers holding them closed can be turned by hand, no coins or tools needed.
The oil drain plug takes a 17 mm hex socket. Place a good sized oil pan under the rear access panel, remove the plug with your 17mm socket, and drain the oil. Take caution, the oil will be hot. Let this drain completely and then replace the drain plug so you can move the oil catch pan to under the oil filter housing.
The filter element canister has a separate drain plug. Don't skip this step!!!! There is quite a bit of oil still in the filter canister and simply removing the canister will ensure you get hot oil all over the place. Use a 13 mm socket with an extender to open this plug and drain the oil out of the canister. You can replace the plug when complete to stop any further oil dripping while you remove the canister itself.
Using a 32 mm hex socket, I found that I needed not only a socket extender but also an angle attachment (see the second photo). Remove the oil filter canister.
I ordered the Oil Filter Kit w/ O-ring from ECS Tuning plus 5 quarts of the Mini Synthetic 5W-30. The kit and oil are affordable, shipped quickly, and had all the right parts (including the larger sized oil filter element - part no. 11 42 8 570 590).
Take off the old gasket from the canister, apply some oil to the new gasket and replace it onto the filter canister. I also replaced the drain plug in the bottom of the canister housing (since the kit came with a new one, not sure if all new kits have this or not). Then installed the new filter element into the housing. When putting the canister back into the access panel, you will need to use a bit of force to get the oil filter onto the oil flow tube on the engine. The hole in the top of the filter itself will fit snugly onto the tube/pipe. It will sort of "pop on" the first time. At this point, then you can begin to screw the bottom of the filter canister back onto the engine. I didn't bother with torquing it to a certain spec, but made sure it was on snug. At this time, also ensure the smaller drain plug that you previously replaced on the canister is also on snug and firm but not over tightened.
With the new filter element replaced and that part of the job finished, open the oil drain plug again after placing the used catch oil container back underneath. You will have more oil that will drain out! Let this complete, and then replace the old o-ring with the new o-ring from the kit (it may still be in place on the oil pan or it may have fallen into the used oil container; mine was still on the oil pan). Replace the plug, tighten, and clean any residue on the pan with a rag. Again, I don't torque this, personal preference. I go by feel.
Restore the access panels and close the retainers. I was impressed that I got little to no used oil splatters on the panels.
Now fill you car with the 5 quarts of Mini oil. I initially added 4.5 quarts and later checked the oil level with Mini's handy electronic oil level process (I miss the dip stick!!!). It required another half a quart so I added the rest and it's all good. This amount matches the used amount of oil that I removed (5 quarts). Close the oil fill cap and wipe down any dirt, debris, and oil drips.
UPDATE: The amount of oil used in the F56 MCS is actually 5L (5.3 quarts) - Unfortunately quantities of liquids are not documented anywhere in the Owner's Manual (appalling actually). I have driven over 500 miles since this oil change and the 5 quarts I put into the car never got the electronic oil level gauge up to the full mark. I then decide to add 1/3 of a more quart of oil which would then equate to 5 liters and bingo, I'm at the full mark on the electronic "dipstick" (ah yes, a dipstick would have been much more effective throughout this whole process). Actually, just put the fluid quantity in the Owner's Manual and I would never have to put so much effort into this very basic vehicle maintenance job.
The next day, to confirm I performed everything correctly, I checked both access panels for signs of oil drips; no drips and all looks good.
Good luck to all. I recommend you get in there and change your oil in between the Boot to Bonnet No Cost Maintenance schedule. Your Mini will love it!
Plus, the next time I perform this oil change service, it will go even faster.
Nice! Couple of questions. 1) After you changed the oil and filer and reset the counter, did it reset to show next service at 9000 mi or 8000 mi? 2) On the electronic dipstick, were you getting up to Max mark or past that and til the end of graphic bar?
