2015 F55 B38 3Cyl.
This morning while heading of to work I turned the heater on to defog the windshield, It did not put any heat out even at normal engine temp; while taking off at the stop light I felt the heat but once it reached a steady RPM it went away. I've had an engine vibration that gets really bad and can only be felt when idling; don't know if related. Other than that everything else seams to be working fine. I'm at a lost on what could be the problem. Any ideas on what the issue could be will be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Check your coolant level. Also, if you have a code reader that “speaks BMW/MINI” (BimmerLink would be a cheap example), look for codes.

See this thread for more as to why I’m suggesting these steps.

I agree with cjv2 to check your coolant level. Had a similar no/low heat issue last fall and discovered I was ~60 oz low on fluid!!! Only time I would push enough coolant back to my heater core was above 2500 rpm, checked my expansion bottle and it was empty. Over the next 1-2 weeks, I slowly added coolant to the expansion tank (when cool) and let it suck in what it needed. After 5 additions, the system stabilized and I had great heat all winter and still today. This was the first time I had check my coolant level since new (5 years/60k miles), so now I check it at each oil change. Never was able to determine where the coolant is going, since I can't find any leaks under it, no milkshake in the crankcase and no steam cleaned spark plugs...go figure!

As for your engine vibration, when was the last time you had your plugs/wires changed? I know everyone touts 100k+ miles on plugs, I haven't found that to be the reality of it and should replace every 60k miles.

Checking codes is one place to start, but don't think no codes means you are truly all clear. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Yep to all of the above. And I should clarify: codes means permanent codes, error codes, and info codes. There are 3 levels in a BMW (which the MINI is) and one can have a whole stack of info and error codes while having zero permanent. The only thing that will throw a check engine light is a permanent. "No codes" is definitely not an all-clear, @WhatV8 is right.

In my case, there was a "your turbo is in safe mode due to running dry on coolant" info code -- no light, no beep, no nothing otherwise -- but you can bet if the turbo had gotten mechanically mad from being run coolant-dry eventually there would have been something one could feel in the vehicle (exactly what I don't know, and I don't want to find out either). I got very, very lucky.

Do I feel like an IDIOT, Went to check the coolant level like you recommended and I forgot to cap the radiator overflow tank. Now I have to find one, My buddy let me borrow his from his F56 until I get home. I want to thank you for the response.

I recently replaced the spark plugs at around 40K miles but have not done the coil packs yet. Was thinking about replacing them at around 60K miles. The car has around 42K at the moment. I guess would't hurt to go ahead and replace them to see if that's the problem with the vibration. Thanks for the response.

I'll take "forgot to cap the overflow tank" over "mystery leak in strange unexplored maybe-places what could be going on here" any day of the week

I completely agree with you, I was actually relieved when it was something that simple. Already ordered one and should be here tomorrow. 👍🏾

I replaced the coils last week hoping that it would fix the vibration but unfortunately it did not. While I did that I verified the plugs and they seem to be burning right also the gal was within tolerance and I torque them down to the specified torque. I’m inclined to replace the harmonic balancer which could cause vibration but I’ve never replaced one before none of my previous vehicles had harmonic balancer on them. Any other insight on what could the vibration be. Thanks

Motor mounts

Yeah @Roman726 , @thefarside is right, upper motor mount in particular is "a thing." See this thread (do yourself a fave and jump to the end of it for most recent developments). In particular, here is my post within that includes pics of broken mount.

Mine was pretty bad and I replaced the upper motor mount and added the Powerflex engine mount inserts about a year and a half ago.

I also added the lower engine mount bushing.

I was tempted to remove the powerflex inserts and stay stock. I would need to acquire a lower engine mount due to breaking the original one when inserted the powerflex bushing.