I'm curious if you all think I should bother replacing my factory clutch with 60K miles when my trans is out for an LSD install? Logic would say yes simply because of the labor involved but on the flip side my stock clutch doesn't seem to be slipping and feels fine. I've had some frustrating experiences in the past with affordable aftermarket clutches in the $500-$700 range, particularly ones with very lightweight flywheels. I want the car to drive similar to stock but with a little more feel in the clutch engagement. So should I replace and if yes which clutches should I be looking at?

 

I am doing the same thing - putting a Quaife in my Works F56 at 56k miles.

I will be replacing the clutch of course, but using all OEM parts.

My Mini dealer is doing the work bless their hearts

I aim to keep this car for a long time...

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Heck yeah, dog box, straight cut gears!

 

For sure put a new clutch in while you have it apart. Going with a new OEM is fine too as it will be like starting from new.

Happy to help you out, just don't have a pic of it on the website
https://www.waymotorworks.com/produc...at=1078&page=1

 

Charlie, do you mind telling me what they are charging you for labor on the install? I know it’s a big job, trying to get an idea of what’s a reasonable cost.

 

Do the MCS and JCW share the same factory clutch?

 

No they are different as the JCW has a different clutch kit, flywheel, fork, and so on

 

Would it be worth upgrading to the JCW clutch on my MCS then? Also if I want to run Koni FSD shocks on my car but it came with the EDC option, what additional parts will I need to make it work?

 

I'm not sure you will be able to use the JCW clutch, If it is even possible you would need the flywheel and fork kit which will get pricey.

For the FSDs you would need new mounts and to bypass the EDC so again it would get pricey. But this can be done.

 

I'm waiting on a quote. I expect around a grand for the work, based on the last go-round with Gollum I (R53).

We shall see...

Cheers,

Charlie

 

When I replace my clutch with a new oem clutch can I get away with resurfacing my flywheel or should that be replaced as well?

 

My flywheel was perfect, and that topic never came up.

And incidentally, my Extended Maintenance Plan did NOT cover the cost of the clutch that I put in, because the one that came out was well within service limits!

Still, no regrets.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Charlie, what was the cost? Did you do a LSD too?

 

Yes, a Quaife.
Quaife - 1,198.95
Clutch - 466.81
Other parts supporting the installation of the previous two components - 691.64
And 15 Shop Hours.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

thanks, this is super useful info. My clutch is starting to slip under high load, so I’m starting to save my pennies up.

(Only 37k but with a Bytetronik tune.)

 

We can dial down the torque curve and make it more linear (if you so choose). Hit us up on email if interested.

 

This is useful information. I currently have the JCW tuning package and Racechip. The car has so much usable power it already seems like more than enough for the street. Triple digit speeds are literally effortless.

I’ve thought about adding a reflash with all the other mods I’m adding but the car doesn’t seem like it’s lacking for power at all! I will wait and see if the new suspension and LSD makes it feel like the car can handle more.

Anyone go from a JCW tune with a module to reflash and care to comment?

 

A flash tune will make the car feel like a whole different beast compared to JCW tune plus module. They're not even comparable IMO. I've had JCW tune, JCW tune + NM box, and finally Bytetronik Stage 2 tune and the feel is completely different with the BT tune.

 

Also just to be clear I am not complaining about Bytetronik; they’ve been nothing but great for me. It’s the clutch that’s the weak part of my power train.

(that said maybe I should take up BT on a slightly less aggressive tune. No point wearing out my clutch even faster. )