I've read a few reviews of those with the 22mm sway bar, but was wondering if anyone out there has the GT sway and if they think it's worth the extra $100? Thanks!

 

The billet sway bar mounts with zerk fittings that come with the 25mm is why that bar is more money. They are well worth it though if you don't enjoy the sway bar squeaks. Very easy to grease.

 

Good to know! Thanks for the info.
I wonder if the 25mm over the 22mm will make any performance difference?

 

+1

Some more info here.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-sway-bar.html

 

Very helpful! Thanks!

 

Welcome.

 

Also wondering how important it is to buy the NM sway bar link kit?

With the GT bar and link kit I'm looking at $520. Will it really make a dramatic improvement in handling/under steer?

 

From NM,

" As you can see from one of factory parts, MINI cuts cost by equipping the new F55/56 with links made from plastic. As it may be sufficient for factory 17-18mm hollow bar it will not perform optimally when paired with our larger 22mm Solid Anti Sway Bar or 25mm bar. NM ALL METAL Sway Bar Links are far more superior by providing these following benefits:

-Replacement of factory weak plastic links
-Provide direct sway bar feedback
-Adjustable to 15mm shorter than factory length to accommodate extreme suspension drop
-Can compensate sway bar pre-load from poorly manufactured sway bars (uneven arms)

 

The 25mm is hollow and the 22mm is solid, so a weight savings for sure.

 

I am, it's awesome. Turn in is instant and it's a noticeable improvement in the overall handling. Also no squeaks with the greased bushings. Went ahead and upgraded the end links while in there.

 

Yea, look at the difference.

 

Thanks for the feedback and pics.
Looking good! 👍

 

I went back and added the end links a couple weeks ago. Mounted right up, no problems. Also adjusted to the stiffest setting.

 

yeah i went from stock to GT bar on stiffest setting. It was night and day.

 

Looks good. Good double check with the marker for completed job.

 

I'm an old maintenance guy. Actually the mark is a quick visual inspection on if the fastener has loosened any. I don't trust myself .

 

Witness marks are never a bad idea.

 

Good practice.

 

I have a mild squeak from mine sometimes in the rain. I'm assuming I didn't grease it well enough. Is any old synthetic NLGI #2 grease (Red Line, Valvoline, RP, etc.) appropriate, or should something specific (Energy, Prothane, etc.) be used?

 

Well, seems like any old NGLI #2 is not OK for poly bushings and lithium based lubes samage them. Silicone/Teflon lubes seem to be most widely recommended, and the Prothane, Hotchkis, and Super Lube varieties all seem to be well liked.

Ordered some of this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042FG74W

--Matt

 

You guys may also want to consider getting some rod end dust boots to help seal out dust/dirt/debris/water. When rod ends are exposed on a daily driver that sees a fair amount of wet weather, they can wear out more quickly than expected. Here are links to a couple options:

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=190

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...end-dust-boots

 

I actually asked Jerry @ NM about this and he indicated that they're not needed. I live in a place that gets snow, has salt, etc. so it was the first queation I had on them. They're apparently important on their control arms though.

--Matt

 

Yep. I put rubber boots on the lower control arms, but not the end links.

 

NM rear Sway bar on my 2016 JCW. Clearly no a good paint job. Yes I drive on salted roads but this is the only part under the car that looks like this. I must admit I am disappointed in the quality.

 

Did you bring this up to NM? What did they say?

Mine does not look like that after one very salty winter, second winter starting soon.