F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+) MINI Cooper and Cooper S (F55/F56) hatchback discussions.

F55/F56 Hardwiring dash cam and/or radar detector

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Old 08-20-2015, 03:24 PM
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Hardwiring dash cam and/or radar detector

So here's what I'm trying to do: I'm looking to get a dashcam soon and I would like to hardwire it in and free up my accessory port. I currently have an Escort radar detector as well that is wired in with a very obtrusive coiled 12V charger that I would like to clean up as well.

Question is, I know there's a fuse box on the passenger side, but what fuse should I splice into for power and can I do two devices off the same fuse? If not, is there another I can use. Ideally both devices come on with the accessory port which powers off when the car is locked or the computers go to sleep.
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:02 PM
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I'm tapping into fuse F62 for my dash cam. Turns on when you unlock the car and off shortly after you lock the car.







Ground point
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 05:00 PM
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Great pics - especially the ground connector! I was wondering where I could put it.

Is there another fuse I could use for the second device? It's probably not advisable to do two devices off the same fuse...
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by siriuszero
Great pics - especially the ground connector! I was wondering where I could put it.

Is there another fuse I could use for the second device? It's probably not advisable to do two devices off the same fuse...
Probably Ok to wire radar detector and dashcam together since they are low powered. I didn't find many fuse slots that would turn on and off the way I want. I think there was a similar thread from a while back where a different slot was used. Try searching for that thread.
Also note that my car is euro right hand drive so there might be differences, especially that ground point.
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BadakVT
Probably Ok to wire radar detector and dashcam together since they are low powered. I didn't find many fuse slots that would turn on and off the way I want. I think there was a similar thread from a while back where a different slot was used. Try searching for that thread.
Also note that my car is euro right hand drive so there might be differences, especially that ground point.
Good to know - I'll have to dive in when I get back to my garage and see.

Couldn't you theoretically daisy chain the fuse taps for both devices?
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by siriuszero
Good to know - I'll have to dive in when I get back to my garage and see.

Couldn't you theoretically daisy chain the fuse taps for both devices?
Yup, I would just crimp both positive cable from the radar and the dashcam into the blue crimp connector of the fuse tab.

When you're putting everything back together, make sure that the glovebox ventilation hose is placed correctly. I had to take apart the glovebox again after finding the small black hose on the carpet and not knowing wth it was.
 
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:23 PM
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Would appreciate knowing when you're done what you did and any issues. I'm looking to hardwire a radar detector in a 2015 MINI.
 
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BadakVT
I'm tapping into fuse F62 for my dash cam. Turns on when you unlock the car and off shortly after you lock the car. Ground point
What is the exact name of that fuse-tap accessory you're using, and how did you determine which amperage fuse to use in it?
 
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Old 08-22-2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by darex
What is the exact name of that fuse-tap accessory you're using, and how did you determine which amperage fuse to use in it?
Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit

Just use the same fuse rating as the one you're replacing/tapping onto.
 
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:39 PM
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Hardwiring dash cam and/or radar detector

Originally Posted by BadakVT
Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit

Just use the same fuse rating as the one you're replacing/tapping onto.
I had tapped my retrofit OEM back-up camera from Bimmer-Tech into #F56, directly, without a fuse, for the past 2 months, without a problem, but wanted to "neaten-up" that last remaining loose-end in my installation. It never pulled out, but it wasn't the right way to go about it.

I have read that back-up cameras draw VERY little, and that a 2 Amp fuse should be appropriate. Do you agree?
 
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:20 PM
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So I finally took a peek - I don't have the metal bits near the fuse box (mine's a US left hand drive), so I have to find another place I can ground.

What system is goes through F62 and F56? Wondering if fuse positions change depending on market...

My dashcam finally comes in tomorrow so I'll explore a little more then.
 

Last edited by siriuszero; 08-24-2015 at 03:21 PM. Reason: added question
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Old 08-25-2015, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by siriuszero
So I finally took a peek - I don't have the metal bits near the fuse box (mine's a US left hand drive), so I have to find another place I can ground. What system is goes through F62 and F56? Wondering if fuse positions change depending on market... My dashcam finally comes in tomorrow so I'll explore a little more then.
I've had perfect results using #F56. 12 VDC, and turns on/off with ignition "on/off." It's "unused" by anything else. The "Fuse Map" says it's for the 4x4 system -- which we obviously don't have one, and also for some other icon that I cannot identify, which looks like a sonar or wifi antenna (?). Regardless, it was empty, and it's powering my back-up camera beautifully. I grounded mine into the frame at the door sill, between two spot-welded metal panels. I had to run wires under there anyway, and it was a convenient spot for my application.
 
Attached Thumbnails Hardwiring dash cam and/or radar detector-image-3593286365.jpg  

Last edited by darex; 08-25-2015 at 07:30 AM.
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Old 08-31-2015, 03:08 PM
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So I got all the wires routed, fuses are in (F42 for the dash cam, F54 for my radar detector), but I still can't find an easy way to ground. I see one metal body I can connect to, but it's also attached to the airbag module and I would just as soon not touch that.

Any ideas? Pictures where you've grounded?
 
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:52 PM
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Hardwiring dash cam and/or radar detector

Am I the only one who thinks we can tap into power in the rear view mirror or overhead module?
 
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by caiken
Am I the only one who thinks we can tap into power in the rear view mirror or overhead module?
Interesting idea, and could make for a very neat installation.
 
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:21 AM
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Hardwiring dash cam and/or radar detector

Originally Posted by darex
Interesting idea, and could make for a very neat installation.
I will be trying it...
 
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by darex
I've had perfect results using #F56. 12 VDC, and turns on/off with ignition "on/off." It's "unused" by anything else. The "Fuse Map" says it's for the 4x4 system -- which we obviously don't have one, and also for some other icon that I cannot identify, which looks like a sonar or wifi antenna (?). Regardless, it was empty, and it's powering my back-up camera beautifully. I grounded mine into the frame at the door sill, between two spot-welded metal panels. I had to run wires under there anyway, and it was a convenient spot for my application.
What amp fuse did you use in #F56? I am hard wiring my radar detector to that and want to make sure I use the right one.

Thanks.
 
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 1chaos52
What amp fuse did you use in #F56? I am hard wiring my radar detector to that and want to make sure I use the right one. Thanks.
That was MY question, a few weeks back. Best I could ascertain, back-up cameras have very little draw, so I tried a 2 amp fuse. So far, so good. Radar detector might be similar, or higher (?).
 
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Old 09-17-2015, 04:41 AM
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I had my dash-cam ( Street Guardian SGZC12SG - Panorama G (GPS) - DELUXE KIT (32GB SD Memory Card / 4 Special Mounts) DashCam) -wired into my MINI, but I also had a battery discharge kit installed.

These devices ensure that power to your dashboard camera will be cut off after a specified amount of time, or if your battery’s voltage drops below a specific threshold.

'A good setting for a discharge prevention device would be to cut off power if the battery’s voltage drops below 12V, and additionally set a timeout of 1-2 days. The reason why you need a timer is that at 12V, your battery will already be partially depleted'

You can choose/review some at amazon:http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=U...%3Delectronics


Here's a link with some picture's that I had WAY MOTOR WORKS use to install https://forum.dashcamtalk.com/thread...ti-safer.4603/

The switch button was installed in the glove box.
 
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