F55/F56 F56 Tuning Options
#1
F56 Tuning Options
Hey guys! I have a 2015 Cooper S F56, and I'm looking into the various options of tuning modules. My goal is to eventually get the JCW full Tuning Kit, but while I save for that, I'd like to have a bit of fun in the mean time I've been looking into the NM Tuning module, the BurgerTuning Beta tuning module. What are you guys using? What do you have experience with? Taking recommendations and advice on any and all options.
#4
#5
I have BMS Stage 1. Running +4psi with all other setting at default. RON 95 gas which is AKI 91 equivalent. 2000 km so far without any problem.
My only wish would be a sturdier waterproof casing like the NM box.
Also I've changed the routing of the cable to the battery box. I first followed the instruction routing the cable entering the front side of the battery box but that tend to crush the wire and the loom. Now my wire enters from the right side of the battery box, no wire crushed.
BMS is way more adjustable but more complicated with USB cable, FF cable, etc. BMS default boost is +3 psi.
NM has good plug and play with easier low and high boost switch. Case is waterproof and looks better so you could mount it on top of the battery box.
I think it boils down on whether you want to do ethanol mixing, changing around boost settings, etc. Go with BMS if you want to do all that.
My only wish would be a sturdier waterproof casing like the NM box.
Also I've changed the routing of the cable to the battery box. I first followed the instruction routing the cable entering the front side of the battery box but that tend to crush the wire and the loom. Now my wire enters from the right side of the battery box, no wire crushed.
BMS is way more adjustable but more complicated with USB cable, FF cable, etc. BMS default boost is +3 psi.
NM has good plug and play with easier low and high boost switch. Case is waterproof and looks better so you could mount it on top of the battery box.
I think it boils down on whether you want to do ethanol mixing, changing around boost settings, etc. Go with BMS if you want to do all that.
#6
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
We've already sold and installed the JCW tuning kit and it really is pretty good, and the exhaust sounds awesome.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/john-co...-cooper-s.html
We also sell the NM module, but our F56 tune module as it plugs into all the sensors and throttle body to modify the mapping and throttle response and has been reliable.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-f56...ng-module.html
We will have hard tuning available later.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/john-co...-cooper-s.html
We also sell the NM module, but our F56 tune module as it plugs into all the sensors and throttle body to modify the mapping and throttle response and has been reliable.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-f56...ng-module.html
We will have hard tuning available later.
#7
So you've been liking the NM module? Any issues with it?
I have BMS Stage 1. Running +4psi with all other setting at default. RON 95 gas which is AKI 91 equivalent. 2000 km so far without any problem.
My only wish would be a sturdier waterproof casing like the NM box.
Also I've changed the routing of the cable to the battery box. I first followed the instruction routing the cable entering the front side of the battery box but that tend to crush the wire and the loom. Now my wire enters from the right side of the battery box, no wire crushed.
BMS is way more adjustable but more complicated with USB cable, FF cable, etc. BMS default boost is +3 psi.
NM has good plug and play with easier low and high boost switch. Case is waterproof and looks better so you could mount it on top of the battery box.
I think it boils down on whether you want to do ethanol mixing, changing around boost settings, etc. Go with BMS if you want to do all that.
My only wish would be a sturdier waterproof casing like the NM box.
Also I've changed the routing of the cable to the battery box. I first followed the instruction routing the cable entering the front side of the battery box but that tend to crush the wire and the loom. Now my wire enters from the right side of the battery box, no wire crushed.
BMS is way more adjustable but more complicated with USB cable, FF cable, etc. BMS default boost is +3 psi.
NM has good plug and play with easier low and high boost switch. Case is waterproof and looks better so you could mount it on top of the battery box.
I think it boils down on whether you want to do ethanol mixing, changing around boost settings, etc. Go with BMS if you want to do all that.
Yeah, I've pretty much been reading that the BurgerTuning and the NM are pretty equivalent, the NM is just a lot cleaner. From what I'm gathering, it seems both are pretty equal in psi gain? I can only find a very minimal amount of feedback on both, here and there, but haven't found a substantial review on either yet. I can run about 93 octane here, so I'm guessing I should get around a +4 psi or so. I'm not looking for anything too complicated, but just some added psi and torque until I can get my hands on the JCW.
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#8
#9
F56 Tuning Options
I'd be more of a plug and play guy as I'm too afraid of accidentally ruining a pre existing setting or something unusual. I've only heard great things about the burger system but personally I've been seriously considering the nm module. This waterproof housing only makes the nm module more attractive to me.
I wonder what how they both compare out of the box (no additional fine tuning the bms).
I wonder what how they both compare out of the box (no additional fine tuning the bms).
#10
I'd be more of a plug and play guy as I'm too afraid of accidentally ruining a pre existing setting or something unusual. I've only heard great things about the burger system but personally I've been seriously considering the nm module. This waterproof housing only makes the nm module more attractive to me.
I wonder what how they both compare out of the box (no additional fine tuning the bms).
I wonder what how they both compare out of the box (no additional fine tuning the bms).
#11
Burger Stage 1 default map is +3 psi (confirmed by connecting to PC)
If I'm not mistaken,
NM Low Setting is +3 psi and High setting is +5 psi.
If you get Burger, you'll be at +3 psi all the time unless you get the USB cable, connect to your PC and change the setting. Setting is more adjustable since you can do +3.5, +4, some people even tried +7.
With the NM box you get +3 or +5 by an easy physical switch on the box.
If I'm not mistaken,
NM Low Setting is +3 psi and High setting is +5 psi.
If you get Burger, you'll be at +3 psi all the time unless you get the USB cable, connect to your PC and change the setting. Setting is more adjustable since you can do +3.5, +4, some people even tried +7.
With the NM box you get +3 or +5 by an easy physical switch on the box.
#12
Burger Stage 1 default map is +3 psi (confirmed by connecting to PC)
If I'm not mistaken,
NM Low Setting is +3 psi and High setting is +5 psi.
If you get Burger, you'll be at +3 psi all the time unless you get the USB cable, connect to your PC and change the setting. Setting is more adjustable since you can do +3.5, +4, some people even tried +7.
With the NM box you get +3 or +5 by an easy physical switch on the box.
If I'm not mistaken,
NM Low Setting is +3 psi and High setting is +5 psi.
If you get Burger, you'll be at +3 psi all the time unless you get the USB cable, connect to your PC and change the setting. Setting is more adjustable since you can do +3.5, +4, some people even tried +7.
With the NM box you get +3 or +5 by an easy physical switch on the box.
#14
My BMS stage 1 with latest firmware hex file from N54tech was definitely at +3psi default at map 1. Now running Map 3 @+4psi (user adjusted). You might have a different firmware or different setting from factory.
#15
#16
F56 Tuning Options
For those concerned with the Burger not being weatherproof they appear to make an enclosure for the Stage 1.
http://burgertuning.com/JB4_billet_a...enclosure.html
http://burgertuning.com/JB4_billet_a...enclosure.html
#17
All NM dyno numbers were done on AKI 91 fuel, please check their dyno sheet. Also please check their install pdf for clearly stated boost addition on low and high level.
My BMS stage 1 with latest firmware hex file from N54tech was definitely at +3psi default at map 1. Now running Map 3 @+4psi (user adjusted). You might have a different firmware or different setting from factory.
My BMS stage 1 with latest firmware hex file from N54tech was definitely at +3psi default at map 1. Now running Map 3 @+4psi (user adjusted). You might have a different firmware or different setting from factory.
#19
None whatsoever. I'm running it on the low setting, though, for personal reasons. The crappy OEM tires have a hard time hooking up to the added power. You're pretty much spinning tires through 1st gear under hard throttle, chirping/screeching tires into second gear. My 18" wheels and Sticky Michelin PSS tires should help to get the power down, and I'll eventually switch it to high to see the difference.
As per NM, it just adds additional power on top of the JCW tune, and will not cause any problems. No issues at all. I've been running it for a few hundred miles now, and so far so good!
Originally Posted by mct
If you have the JCW tuning kit installed on an F56 S, how safe is the NM module?
#21
#22
F56 Tuning Options
Some people are saying that it's ok to run for a little but anything equivalent of a track day (long periods of hard diving) would result in some engine knocking. There are people who dd 100 on 93 and to my knowledge no issues? I would call jerry honestly and ask. I'm debating it.
#23
Some people are saying that it's ok to run for a little but anything equivalent of a track day (long periods of hard diving) would result in some engine knocking. There are people who dd 100 on 93 and to my knowledge no issues? I would call jerry honestly and ask. I'm debating it.
#24
None whatsoever. I'm running it on the low setting, though, for personal reasons. The crappy OEM tires have a hard time hooking up to the added power. You're pretty much spinning tires through 1st gear under hard throttle, chirping/screeching tires into second gear. My 18" wheels and Sticky Michelin PSS tires should help to get the power down, and I'll eventually switch it to high to see the difference.
Now, I've done some other thread searching and have come across at least 3 instances of people having the Burger Stage 1, and then their car going into limp mode. What I'm trying to understand, is that because the BMS is an unreliable or faulty unit? Or is it because all 3 of those people tried to tune it to the max and create more power than the engine could even tolerate (stupidity )?