A new V1 comes with all the hardware wires and connectors needed to hardwire it. If you can't get them from the person you bought it from, you can order it from the v1 website.

I have a web page that tells you how to tap into your fuse panel to nicely power your hard-wired accessories:
http://www.jwardell.com/mini/fusetap.html

 

I have my V1 clipped above the rearview mirror on the passenger side. Not very noticeable. And I have a remote display on order, and now plan to get the remote audio to mount in my parcel shelf for easier to reach on/off/volume control.

What I'd like to do is REALLY conceal the main V1 unit so it's as close to invisible as possible - both inside and outside the car. I've seen a number of threads on creative approaches to this in Porsches, Audis, BMWs, etc. Has anyone tackled any kind of custom enclosure, etc. on your MINI to hide your V1?

The simplest way to do this I can think of would be to get some dark, dark grey (in my case) fabric or vinyl matching the color of the console up there and "wrap" the unit, just leaving the front and rear windows exposed. That should visually blend it into the whole assembly up there. Any other ideas?

 

I've posted these pics before - they're all in my gallery. This is in a '02 coupe, and won't apply to later years with the newer mirror style, or to the cabrio. But it may give you ideas, as well as show you that things like you're asking about can be done.

edit - well, I can't get the pics in here..... click on my gallery for now & have a look.... sorry

 

Good stuff, Larry. Where did you end up putting the mute button from the remote display?

 

That's a whole different story - I bought a used MFSW, installed it in my non-MFSW car, and connected the buttons on the backside of the MFSW to the mute circuit of the remote V1. So I can mute the V1 with either hand by just tapping the wheel buttons without taking my hand(s) off the wheel.

 

I wanna hear more of THAT story - cause that's what I was hoping to do... How? Details? Pics? I know Mikey the Mini has a wiring kit for this...

 

He does? What kind of kit?

 

I think with a bit of hacking you can make this one work. You may have to switch out the relay he includes with a normally closed one from Radio Shack or wherever - not sure though, the provided relay may work - not sure if the V1 is looking to open or close the circuit to mute. Then you connect it to a phone plug and plug it up to your V1 power adapter. Or for a shortcut you can buy one of these and use the relay instead of the switch that it comes with... or you could just use the switch...

 

I would like to as well, if for no other reason to make it less likely to be stolen. The biggest step is affixing it without the suction cups, as they are very noticeable on the glass from the outside, as I did to the headliner with the visor clip and velcro.

I don't think there is much need for the remote audio--I almost never need to adjust the volume and when I need to I can reach up and do so. Unless fo course you truly have it buried away somewhere.

I've wondered how well the V1 would work if you put it in the empty box in the roof that is used for the alarm's ultrasonic sensor. It's plastic so it shouldn't affect radar reception, but I'm sure laser would no longer be picked up. Otherwise, maybe underneath the headliner in the bulge by the mirror, if it still has some view of the front.

 

I got and installed my remote audio last night - it's fabulous in the upper right corner of my parcel shelf - easy to reach and invisible from outside the car. I wanted this because my "wrapping" of the V1 will include covering the ****. And I do adjust volume fairly often - and I was going to wire in a switch in the parcel shelf to kill the power to it - in the event of a LEO close encounter... so the remote audio was an expensive power switch, but looks mahvelous and gives me remote volume and yet another mute/mode button...

I think I'm going to get some very dark grey or black felt and sew up a little fitted enclosure with fitted openings for the windows - then tuck/tape the top edges up where the mount is and ensure the cord is in there... Should be very, very stealthy.... my objective is for it to look like part of the car if a LEO looks through the windshield or the driver's window... might have a little felt flap to flip down over my remote display, also...

I'll post pix when this is all done.

The cabrio presents fewer install options than the hardtop...

 

Cool...remember not to block the rear laser sensor. And post pics for us!

 

Did your car arrive with the factory MFSW?

If it did, you have to go and look at the mods that are available for using the unused button via the kit(s) described in this thread.

If your car didn't come with the MFSW, it's possible to buy the MSFW & parts to use the buttons on isolated circuits. That can add up $$$$ if you're buying them new.

My car falls into the latter group. My car is also a 2-spoke wheel car, and the buttons are different on the 3-spoke car, so my specific mod probably doesn't translate from 2-spoke to 3-spoke.

I posted a thread before about my mod - it's here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=67097

Just remember - it may not apply to your car, but will give you an idea of whats involved. I spent a LOT of time with the wiring diagrams and a tester to figure out all of the connections.

Larry

 

I just ordered one. Hopefully my metalic tint won't confuse the sensors.

 

It won't, I've never had a problem with metallic tint and the V1 on several cars.

 

how are you guys running your power to your power source? I wen't under the headliner to the a-piller, but then i had to run it in clear sight :( down the a-piller?

 

Far side of the A-pillar flexes enough that when I had items hard wred you can touck in in so it it is mostly out of sight.

 

I used a plastic putty knife to manipulate the a-pillar so that I could get the cord back there. It is slightly visible as it runs through the seam in the dash from the a-pillar to the dash's end-cap, but it's really not noticeable.

 

Anyone try to modify the visor clip so can be used to suspend the V1 from the plastic strip above the windshield on the cabrio? I'm trying to eliminate the suction cups and make the V1 less noticeable. Maybe flatten the clip so it slides in between the glass and plastic strip? What do you think?

 

This is how mine is mounted - and I didn't have to modify it. I DID have to work at it for a while to get it to work - and it took a LOT of brute force applied to the plastic "headliner" strip to get it in there. Put the clip on without the V1 in there - pull "hard" on the front edge of the plastic head strip (near the windshield) - just to the right of the mirror, and shove the clip in there. Once it's on, I've found that a 1" strip of double sided foam tape between the top of the plastic clip and the MINI's head strip keeps the mount from sliding around. I've had mine up in this fashion for about a month with no issues. I love it.

 

So my previous Bel finally died. I bit the bullett and bought a V1 (from their site). While I did a substantial amount of web-based research and ultimately did buy one, one thing I'm still uncertain of is the detector's falsing. There are many reports touting the unit's excellent sensitivity, but almost as many calling it the "Chicken Little" of radar detectors.

Ok, owners... how bad is it? Will I be disappointed and ultimately return it within the 30-day return policy or will it make me proud :-)

Thanks!

 

It just depends. I don't consider telling me about a real radar source "falsing" . I consider it "full disclosure". That plus the bogey counter lets ME decide if there is a speedtrap hiding amongst a set of door openers. But yes, the V1 will tell you about EVERY source of radar it detects, whether it's "police" radar or not. Any detector that doesn't do this is guessing whether a source is "important" or not...

With the V1, you CAN program modes to auto-mute on weak K sources, which calms things down considerably in areas with a lot of K band door openers. I've done this and am liking it.

For me, the offset is that I do a LOT of highway driving in non-urban areas - and in this scenario the combination of sensitivity, directional indicators and bogey counter on the V1 ROCKS. But if 100% of your driving is in the city, you may want a different unit. Comes down to personal preference, and what you want your detector to tell you - since none of them are perfect and none of them can tell you 100% for sure if the radar source they're receiving is a LEO or something else...

 

I ran the wire across the top of the A-Piller, and through the weather stripping. So there is about 2 inches of wire I have to figure out a way to keep stuck to the roof...

 

Did you see my mount? See post #61 here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=32709&page=3
It may give you some ideas. I used the suction cup mount as a permanent mount.

 

Blimey,
I did the K band mute like you suggested and it works great. Love the bogey counter and arrows. Already saved my bacon a couple of times. Have you noticed a lot of X and K band in NC? Seems like gaston county uses X and K (at least that is what keeps going off with the LEOs here)

 

LOTS of X and K in NC, plus some Ka in some newer LEO cars. Basically I think the cars mostly have whatever they were fitted with when new - so the older cars are likely to have old X or K band gear.

So I run in "A" mode on the V1 when on the highway or in areas where I'm concerned about likely traps. And "L" mode around town.

When I was much younger I had issues knowing how fast I was going. But these days, I'm typically pretty well aware of my speed. And I stick close to the posted limit in congested areas. It's out in the country where I tend to wind it up a bit.

Oh yeah, and Gaston County has some GREAT speed traps. My wife's from Gastonia, so I spend a good amount of time there with the in-laws. And I pass through a lot en route to business in SC or GA.