Electrical Amperage Draw when "Asleep" and how long..
Amperage Draw when "Asleep" and how long..
.. does it take to go into “Sleep” mode
I recently ran into a big problem with "Stitch" a 2003 Mini Cooper S.
After sitting in my garage for 2 days, I went to start it up, and it was completely dead.
I put it on the charger, got it running and took it down to East-Bay Mini.
After fixing a problem with the SRS, they said everything was fine, Ready to pick up.
I was going to get it and they called me back and told me it was dead.
This mini was modified when I got it, with a DVD player in the back along with some other mods. For this reason EastBay Mini would not do any warranty work on it. The labor rate was 155.00 and hour, estimated 4 hours, and would not guaranty that they could fix it. I told them fine, just make sure I can drive it home when I get there.
Well they didn’t, and they actually pushed it out into the parking lot, then handed me the keys, but that is another story..
So, this is where am I going with this…
EastBay Mini stated that when a Mini has been sitting for awhile, it goes into “Sleep” state where it draws very low current or Amps. The normal draw should be a maximum of 0.35 Amps. My Mini, Stitch, is pulling over 2.0 Amps.
After finding where the DVD player is getting power, I disconnected it, and the
Amp draw dropped to about 0.17.
So does anybody know what it should be pulling? and how long does it take for a mini to go to Sleep?
Julian "Duckdodger" Vega
I recently ran into a big problem with "Stitch" a 2003 Mini Cooper S.
After sitting in my garage for 2 days, I went to start it up, and it was completely dead.
I put it on the charger, got it running and took it down to East-Bay Mini.
After fixing a problem with the SRS, they said everything was fine, Ready to pick up.
I was going to get it and they called me back and told me it was dead.
This mini was modified when I got it, with a DVD player in the back along with some other mods. For this reason EastBay Mini would not do any warranty work on it. The labor rate was 155.00 and hour, estimated 4 hours, and would not guaranty that they could fix it. I told them fine, just make sure I can drive it home when I get there.
Well they didn’t, and they actually pushed it out into the parking lot, then handed me the keys, but that is another story..
So, this is where am I going with this…
EastBay Mini stated that when a Mini has been sitting for awhile, it goes into “Sleep” state where it draws very low current or Amps. The normal draw should be a maximum of 0.35 Amps. My Mini, Stitch, is pulling over 2.0 Amps.
After finding where the DVD player is getting power, I disconnected it, and the
Amp draw dropped to about 0.17.
So does anybody know what it should be pulling? and how long does it take for a mini to go to Sleep?
Julian "Duckdodger" Vega
Well, in general you want as little draw as possible. A rule of thumb is if the draw is under .50 amps, a good battery should still start in the morning. 0.17 amps isnt bad, you might be able to get it lower, aslo depends on when your checking it. Wait around 15 minutes and the computers should be in "sleep" mode, and you'll be able to see the draw on the battery. Also make sure all your doors are closed along with the boot and bonnet, door sensors and the boot and bonnet sensors will keep certain computers active until it senses everything is closed.
hope this helps
Matt
hope this helps
Matt
If I'm away from my MINI for more than 7 days, I disconnect my icelink and blitzsafe adapters. Recently my MINI sat in our garage for 22 days, when I returned, it started on the first turn of the key. Aside from flat spots on the tires, everything was just fine! Good luck!
Originally Posted by mylittlemini
...Also make sure all your doors are closed along with the boot and bonnet, door sensors and the boot and bonnet sensors will keep certain computers active until it senses everything is closed....
Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
If the boot and bonnet are closed, how do you get a reading on the amp draw - run wires under the closed bonnet?
What kind of DVD player is it? it sounds like it might be connected to always be on rather than on with ignition. Most full in car dvd, tv system pull a max of about 3.5 amps, so just the dvd on could at 1.5 to 2 amps or so.
Hope it helps
Paul
Well 0.17 Amps is much better then +2.0.
Since my Amp meter is a clamp on, running wires out of the Boot is not an option. It appears that if you lock the doors, even with the Boot open, it will go to sleep. I will try the 15 min test. Otherwise, if you remove the cover to the Boot, position the meter just right, close the boot, then use a flashlight..
Maybe you could read the meter??
it is tough to find a meter that is Fused that will handle over 2.0 AMPs
Since my Amp meter is a clamp on, running wires out of the Boot is not an option. It appears that if you lock the doors, even with the Boot open, it will go to sleep. I will try the 15 min test. Otherwise, if you remove the cover to the Boot, position the meter just right, close the boot, then use a flashlight..
Maybe you could read the meter??
it is tough to find a meter that is Fused that will handle over 2.0 AMPs
Actually those clamp type meters are great, you dont have to worry about blowing fuses or disconnecting wires just to hook up a regular meter. Just grab a magazine or some food if you dare, sit back and relax inside the car all locked up and wait. You can open the windows so it doesnt get all hot and stuffy.
If you do want to get another meter, you can get a suitable meter at wal-mart, any auto parts store, or hardware stores. Most meters are able to accept up to 10 amps without blowing fuses, and if you do blow a fuse it can be $6 or higher to replace it. When you do the test you have to remove the neg wire from the battery while keeping one of the meters lead on the battery and the one the neg. wire. Its much easier just using the clamp meter you already have.
Matt
If you do want to get another meter, you can get a suitable meter at wal-mart, any auto parts store, or hardware stores. Most meters are able to accept up to 10 amps without blowing fuses, and if you do blow a fuse it can be $6 or higher to replace it. When you do the test you have to remove the neg wire from the battery while keeping one of the meters lead on the battery and the one the neg. wire. Its much easier just using the clamp meter you already have.
Matt
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