I bought a set of Autotecknic halo lights for my Cooper to sit the bottom of my front bumper but they came with little to no instructions.

Here's a picture of the lights and where i'm looking to place them, could anyone point me in a direction to learning how to wire these?

They come with the full wiring kit and a very simple and vague description of how to wire them.

The "ring" light is supposed to connect to the park light (+) and ground connection (-).


I'd like to add the lights down on my front bumper to function as fog lights.



Should I just get this professionally done? My dad is good at wiring, he's just not sure where to "drill holes" and place the on/off button.

Anyone help would be great, Thanks!

 

Has anyone seen a guide similar to this or done something like this?

 

Are these the same lights people are installing in next to their parking/turn signals?

 

Any pics of your lights installed? I noticed the angel eyes were the top seller from Moss Motors and want to see some personal pics...

 

Wiring should be the easy part, the hard part would seem to be where are you going to mount them? You got to bolt them to something sturdy and what would that be. I see no brackets there for mounting???

To wire them to the parking lights would be no different than wiring them like fogs or driving lights but just to a different circuit. Here is an example of generic wiring http://www.rallylights.com/useful_in...amp_wiring.htm

Instead of running the relay to the high or low beam circuit, you run it to the parking light circuit if that is what you want. That way, you can turn these lights on as long as the parking lights are on (I believe ... YMMV).

You will need to run the switch wire through the fire wall and just stick the switch anywhere you want. For example, my fogs are just a switch on the dash.

 

That would work for sure....this way they do not go off when the high beams are being used.

BUT MAKE SURE TO INSTALL a switch.

In some states you can not run more than 4 white lights at a time....head lights and fogs lights. And some drivers get bent around the axle when you run more than just head lights.

Just just like what chows4us said, splice into the power side of the parking lights, then to the fuse(put the fuse inside), then to the switch, then to the lights, and then get the black to a good ground. When you are making electrical connections and splices make sure to use some "di-electric" grease to help prevent corrosion at the splice points from the sodium on the roads in the winter.

Keeping it clean is the hard part....but take your time and measure twice.....cut once.

Good luck!

 

It also looks like the green Mini mounted the lights into the grill......do the British call them grills?

 

The grille mounted lights are on brackets like these:

http://outmotoring.com/mini_cooper_b..._brackets.html

I've actually seen these installed on Aaron's (the Outmotoring owner's) car, and they're actually mounted BEHIND the grille not actually ON it- they screw to a thick spot on the underside of the bonnet and protrude through the grille slats. I'm getting a pair for my Hella Angel Eye lights, actually. Outmotoring's set is the best priced I've seen, by and large.

Good luck and post pics when you get 'em mounted!

 

This is a good schematic. You can put a switch in the ground line on the bottom left too. That'll create a double true type situation where you have to have the swich and high/low beams on for operation. Just like stock.

 

We've got everything wired, the only task now is installing the switch inside of the car. Does anyone know how to do that? I can't seem to word a search correctly that'll give me a sinlge result of less than 200 results .

 

There are two usual mounting locations for the switch:

If you have the Euro parcel tray (replaces the stock knee bolster peice under the steering wheel), there's a knock-out for a driving light switch there. Pull out te knock-out, trim as necessary and install the switch.

If you don't have that, or want it someplace different, look at the emergency brake - opposit the run-flat sensor reset button, which is on the passenger side is a blank plate on the driver's side. This can be removed and the switch can be put there, with the wires runnig under the shift plate and the center console. I plan to do this with my driving lights if the wires will reach. I'm still on the fence on the Euro parcel tray - it's a $75 accessory that, yes I'd use, but I'm not sure I like the look.

Beyond those two options you could also try mounting the switch directly in the kick-plate under the steering wheel - just measure the size of the switch plate, then draw the box onto your knee bolster where it will end up (remove the bolster first - it just pulls out). To cut it, first drill 1/8" holes at the corners, then use a fret saw or even a tough serrated blade to gently "connect the dots" and saw out the square. Mount the switch in the hole you cut.

Let us know how it turns out.

PS- I'm wiring my Angel Eye lights (Hellas) to be 100% switch controlled and NOT wired into my high beams. That way, I can "flash" them as passing lights independent of my main headlights as well as turn on the ring LEDs any time I want. I'll have to remember to not leave them on accidentally when I do this, though, I realize, since there's going to be no audible warning from my car if I leave them running and I'm almost certain they'll draw power from the battery even with the key out of the ignition...

The benefit of wiring the ring LEDs into your parking lights and the main lights into your high beams is that, while you lose the ability to run them independent of your main headlights, you can never accidentally leave them on without your car "diging" you with a warning. It's up to you to decide if the ability to run them independent of the main lights is worth the risk of accidentally draining the battery one day by accidentally leaving them on when you walk away....