I recently installed a 12v power socket in my new Euro Parcel Tray and used "add-a-circuit" to fuse 32 (cig lighter) to power it. As others have found, this power is always on, although the lighter socket is off with the key .

I have my iPod/Belikin adapter powered by this outlet, and do not wish for my iPod to stay powered when I'm not listening to it, nor do I want it to charge for long periods of time.

Is there another fuse I could tap that will stay "switched" even after if has been tapped with the add-a-circuit?

And yes, I know I could go back to the cig lighter socket for the Belkin. But the whole idea of getting the parcel tray with new power outlet was for a cleaner look in the interior .

PS...I'd advise against mounting the power outlet to the left of the steering wheel near the little convex bump on the parcel tray...the upper clutch pedal linkage bangs against it and causes a short! Took me more than a few minutes of head scratching to figure it out .

Dave

 

There is a switched circuit in the fuse box on the driver's side. It's (if you are looking at the open panel) on the lower right corner, I believe. I'll try to run out to the parking lot and take a look today.

I did the same thing. Used it to add direct power to the Belkin adapter. Then I added iceLink and it now powers my Radar Detector which I hard-wired for cleanliness.

Steve

 

Had the same problem while installing a head unit a couple weeks ago. Seem like every fuse I tapped into became "constant" even with the car off. Very weird. The one marked for the stereo worked though. I don't know why my Crutchfield instructions told me to hook it up to the wiper fuse and not the stereo fuse. Guess American cars don't have that one. Anyways, there are two stereo ones to pick from.

Good luck

 

#36 - down at the bottom of the same row.
I've got power to the V1 off that one, with the Belkin mounted to the RIGHT of the steering wheel tapping #42 IIRC - both have 'reading lamp' type icons.

 

Don't forget that BMW has moved switch locations between certain year models....

So remember to check the voltage and fuse number if things end up "NOT COMPUTING"!

 

High-amperage items can be tapped into the switched seat-heater circuit if you don't have that option installed, but it is on at both AUX and IGN. I wonder is there another switched circuit that only runs when the car is running (IGN)?

 

I think even a low amp fuse circuit would be OK...I can't find the amp draw on the Belkin iPod adapter but I can't imagine it is more than 5 amps.

"on" in key pos. #1 would be OK with me.

When it stops raining here I'm going to try some of the options suggested here...thanks all (but more options are always welcome)!

 

Sorry, it took me a day to get these posted:

I used a add-a-circuit fuse adapter in this position for switched power:



You can see it better with the add-a-circuit removed:



It's position F36. I used a 3A fuse to power my Belkin adapter and my radar detector:



Hope that helps.

Steve

 

Those "upside down" fuses are going to drive the OCD-inclined members nuts! LOL!

 

Thanks for the pix and info, Steve. No problems with running your defroster along with the iPod off #36?

Dave

 

No they will not! I'm not even going out to check that mine are right side up. Really I'm not. Uh, pardon me, I think I heard something in the garage...

Madhatter is correct about the changing fuse positions - I used #36 in my '04, and I KNOW it had a 'reading lamp' icon. Steve also has the MCSa, which may adjust a few locations.

 

F 36 is one of those "reading the manual" icons on my '03 fusebox, but the add-a-circuit there worked perfectly for my iPod adapter. Switched power as promised!

Dave

 

I used the same fuse location, but for my '04, fuse #36 is the reading lights.

In any case though, that adaptor pulls so little power that it won't be a problem. I don't remember how much it pulls, but it won't be more than one amp. I've actually been using two add-a-circuits for about a year now, with a 5 amp fuse going to the iPod adaptor, and I've had zero problems!

-Paul!

 

I would like to power a G Tech Pro RR and a Garmin Streetpilot C330. Do you think it will be ok on #36? BTW, '04 MCS non HK.

 

I'd use two different ones, just 'cause I'm ****. I used #36 for my V1 and #42 for my ipod in my '04.

 

I can only find the "add a circuit" things online. I also tried RadioShack online, but can't find them. Are they just an online thing?

 

I got mine at Pep Boys. They cost a little more, but cheaper than online after shipping. Try your FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store)

 

Do you think I should use a 5 amp fuse or a 3 amp fuse for the Gtech and Garmin?

 

I purchased mine from Autozone and am using a 5A fuse on #36 to power my V1 and Ipod. I could probably go down to a 3A fuse because the total current draw for both devices is less than 1A.

 

Steve,

I've also installed an Add-A-Circuit. I just wanted to point out one minor issue with the way you, and probably others have installed this device. On the fuse block, the source of power to a circuit is between the two columns of fuses while the circuit is connected to the outside of either column. On the Add-A-Circuit, the common connection point is on the side opposite the wire you add your circuit to.

So, if you install the Add-A-Circuit with the wire toward the center of the fuse block as you have done, then your new circuit will be fed through both fuses rather than just one. This is probably not much of a problem as long as the new load is small. You do run the risk of blowing the original fuse first rather than the new fuse. In other words, all your circuits are protected, but you might blow a fuse when you really shouldn't

To work the way the manufacturer intended, you would need to turn the Add-A-Circuit upside down. When I did this, I found that I couldn't use Fuse #36 as the Add-A-Circuit wouldn't fit. However, Fuse #35 is also switched and can be used instead. The Add-A-Circuit instructions tell you to remove put remove the fuse for your original circuit and see if the new circuit works. If it does not, then the Add-A-Circuit is upside down.

Here is a quick sketch that hopefully is easier to understand than the wordy description above.

 

Than what about #38? It seems to be unused? Is #35 for side mirror heaters?

 

IIRC, MINI doesn't install fuse clips in unused fuse positions.

Phil

 

Funny you should mention that. After I took those pics and reading the thread about what acceptable loads are ("can position X support this load?"), I was gonna make the point that the load is limited by the fuse and the bus should be able to handle much higher loads. Then I got to thinking, when I was looking for a switched circuit I remembered checking to see which was the BUS side of the fuse block with my Fluke, as well as whether the circuit was switched or not.

Well, it took me a few weeks to get around to picking up the add-a-circuit and, of course, I was hasty in plugging it in (I had already run the wiring and just needed to plug it in and crimp the connection). I thought I had remembered which was which and went with what I thought I had remembered.

This thread made me go check my work and dang if I didn't have it backwards.

Thanks for the heads up!

Steve

 

I thought #42 is unused. In the diagram it shows nothing there like #38?

 

Steve's is an '05 MCSa - not sure if it's the 'a' part or the '05' part that makes it different, but my '04 MCS fuse box doesn't have the same layout. I took a pic to post as a comparison, but forgot to post it.

pjschaffer - thanks for the info! I was wondering if it mattered which side was up. Like Steve, I got antsy and just plugged it in. It worked, no problem. I just didn't check to see that it worked RIGHT. Time to go find another fuse spot...