Hi all,
I've gotten a G-Tech along with some other toys. After playing around with it a bit, I've decided it's a keeper, so I went for a permanant mount. Well, more permanant..... Anyway, here goes.....

First, mark where you want to mount the base on the dash cover, then pop the end-covers off. Be carefull, the plastic clips are a bit odd, don't go gonzo, go slow.....

There are two torx screws under each cover. This is the driver side. The mess of wires is from a hands free blue tooth kit.....

After you remove all four screws the dash pad comes forward and up. I had a rattle, I did this and put some felt where I'd been having to pound the dash. Rattle fixed....

Now you can go and drill pilot holes... The kit comes with some small sheet metal screws, and the plastic for the dash cover is pretty stiff (can't just punch through with an awl), that's not good enough for the track, and I wanted to make sure I had nuts holding it on.... For street, I think the supplied screws would be good enough, but since the cover is off, why not do it right?

Once you have the pilot holes, you can mount the fixed part of the mount...

Then attach the nuts and tighten on the back of the dash pad.....

This photo shows the base in place. Note the hole in the base for the wires.

And the unit in it's holder.

Since I have more toys to mount... See PLX R-500 Installation, I think I'll be taking the pad off in the future, and I wanted to create a connector for the power. I didn't want a huge honkin hole for the wires, so I drilled a 1/4" diameter hole through the flange of the GTech base... Sorry, I didn't take a photo of that. With a quarter inch hole, I didn't want a huge connector, so I just used pins from a connector, and used shink wrap to insulate the pins. Viola, skinny connector! I did cut the cigarette power cord that came with the unit to do this....

I used read shink tubing for the hot lead.... This is both halves...

Dash pad is done! But before you put the pad back in, route the power wires under the plasic frame that's under the pad. I can't really explain it, but if you do it the route is obvious..... I didn't have any red and black wires, so I used blue and yellow....

Now you can put the cover back on, and it almost done. I originally ran the power to the fuse panal in the driver side kick panal. Bad idea. Poor RPM bahaviour. People here suggested tapping to the battery lug under the hood, and all was well. So I used the routed wires for power, and used the hook-up with the fuse tap to get the swithced power to control a realy.

One of the little resistor looking thing is actually a fuse, and the little circuit is mounted with velcro....
This is the underhood power line...

And running the power through the firewall....

Use something to find a switched fuse for the relay control.... Then hook up. These photos are from the PLX install, but you get the idea.. For a ground, you really should pop the trim panel and use the ground point, but I'm lazy..... (at times)

This is the completed installation. From how I set my seat, the top of the steering wheel is going through the text below the display.... This is the side view...


To give you a tease of some of what you get (these are from before the permanant mount).

 

Very nice write up. If i may ask are you having any RPM pick problems either before or after the perm mount?

 

It needs the alternator to be driving a load to work. So, to get the RPM to cal at all, I had to put on lights, and fan....

There are few things to do....
1) Just make sure the same load is running when you do your comparison runs. That way it's an apples to apples....
2) Do power and torque by time, not RPM. You still get the numbers, but not the RPM that it happens at. If you always do your HP runs the same way, you can still do comparisons...
3) Some magic I'm working on...

Anyway, it's a good unit. I've found that you have to find a place where you can do the same thing, over and over. Slopes make a BIG difference. One place I can do a leagal 0-65 run I'm averaging 6.9+ 0-60 and 155+ effective HP, at a place near work where I got to do a legal 0-60, I got 5.9+ 0-60 and 207 HP or so, that's wheel less wind! (Felt nice). Guess which one was a bit downhill!

Anything that will do acceleration or speed accuratly vs time can be used for HP measurement. Having the RPM just makes the graph look like a dyno....

Matt

 

So I took a few more photos for the how to.

Matt

 

I ran out of light tonight, but the calibration went real, real smooth and seemed to take just fine! I'm baffeled. I'll change the How To to reflect the differences when I get a chance to take photos....

Matt

 

Where did you get a good feed of 12 volts to make the RPM's work without mess'n with creating a load on the Alternator with the lights etc? The only one that worked for me was on the +Batt jumper location in the front of my "S".

 

That's where I hooked up. And being and occational bone-head, I tried the connection under the fuse cover first. Didn't work, and got lots of noise on the radio! Moved it to the batt term, an presto!
But since I'd already wired into a switched fuse (that didn't work perfectly, but better than the fuse panal in the engine compartment!) I used that to control a realy so it wasn't on all the time, and I mounted the fuse near the realy, so the car worn't blow up if theres a problem. I'll post photos later.....

Matt

 

Nice info guys I'm going to have to get me one of these things

 

I just added the proper power routing stuff.

All done!