The short version:
I have an '04 R53 6speed manual.
I believe I may have an issue with the ABS Control Module. I suspect there may have been some water intrusion/corrosion. The module is still in the car. I have not been able to release the multiplug connector. The release lever will not slide fully upwards - Try as i might, it only slides up 3/4" and stops/sticks. Original, being 18yrs old I'm afraid the plastic may break if forced.
Any Ideas? What am I missing/doing wrong?

The long version:
I've had this annoying problem where I have a list of fault codes that I just cannot seem to clear.
I have/been using the Creator C110+ BM OBDII which has worked well for me in the past - but not under these circumstances.
There are no fault lights lit on the dash. I discovered the faults during a random scan. The faults I can only discern, may seem to be related to the ABS Control Module and/or CAN bus.
I had read somewhere, sometime ago, how water/moisture can cause corrosion and play havoc with these units.

Faults that won't clear:
5D90_Wheel Speed Sensor - Front left (*replaced all sensors FL,FR and Rear 1yr ago successfully w/no fault. Now back).
5E38_Rotation Rate Sensor
5E5D_Level Sensor - Brake Fluid (*the brake fluid fault is due to an improper brake flush by a service tech)
5E19_CAN Data Fault from DME/DDE (DSC lamp on as long as error is present) (*Yet No fault lights on dash)
5E5C_Initialize Run Flat Indicator (*Ignore - I don't have RF tires)

I don't have another OBDII to test with, to see if any of these codes will clear.
Based on these circumstances/fault codes what are your impressions?
Thanks

 

Take this with a grain of salt because I don’t know the ABM module plugs specifically but when I pulled my BCM last week, the levers on the 4 wiring harness plugs would get to about 3/4 open and then start to “lift” the plug out of the module. So you might try gently lifting the plug as you finish opening the lever?

 

Thanx for that @bump32 .
For anyone interested....
After a few tries, a little lithium spray - alot of pulling and wiggling the lever finally freed and pulled upwards.
Upon inspection, I didn't see any obvious corrosion.
Let it be known; This Muliplug was as difficult to align and re connect as it was to release/disconnect within the tight confines with the ABM still in the car .
Never again!

 

Um...for us stupid folks...
What is "ABM" and what is "BCM".

Acronyms mean nothing without a map !

Mike

 

I've gotten 5e19 a few times (but not the others you list). While searching, I found the thread below. A lot of information there. Make sure you read far enough that you get to the part about the tach. Very interesting.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...us-issues.html

 

In this/my particular post:
"ABM" (or ABS) refers to = Anti Braking Module (located under the hood, passenger side firewall. The box where all brake/hydraulic lines connect to).
"BCM" = Body Control Module - (located in the passenger side foot well)

Thanx for the link, dmath.
I've read a few posts in reference to 5E19. Many seem a bit confusing to me. Although I don't seem to have any tach issues... but I'll give it a read through and maybe it'll make sense this time.

 

Regarding the tachometer, my understanding is that the tach wasn't exhibiting symptoms. Instead it was putting interference or spurious signals on the bus that caused problems for the ABS module resulting in the codes. It wasn't the case for everyone who posted in that thread but I think it fixed the problem for a few.

 

This has helped me in the past regarding all of the Acronyms thrown around here.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ictionary.html

 

But...but...but...It can't be the tach?!...It 's only 18yrs old and still looks brand new! [sarcasm].
Although everything/car drives/works fine - I'm going to try to pull/disconnect the tach this weekend and try a few things that were listed in the thread.
Did you ever successfully solve/clear your 5e19 fault? Did you end up replacing your tach?

Thanks!

 

I only started troubleshooting the code last weekend so I don't have it figured out. When I drove it on Saturday (for the first time since September) it stumbled consistently under moderately hard acceleration and threw 5e19. Then I unplugged the tach and drove it and didn't get any stumbles or codes. On Sunday, I drove again without the tach and got a much milder stumble once. Plugged the tach back in and drove again with no stumbles. Obviously, nothing definitive so far. Hoping to do more testing this weekend, as long as it doesn't rain.

 

I've now driven my car several times with no stumbles and no codes. I now wonder if the symptoms were a sign that the ECU was adapting to the JCW airbox and 380 cc injectors I installed since I'd last driven the car in September. @Here2Go Any improvement with your car?

 

No such luck.
I removed the tach and gave it a good 20mi run around town. Tried slamming on the brakes hard a few times. Rechecked for faults with OBDII w/tach removed - Nothing changed = all faults still present.
I had ordered a couple of pod gauges (oil pressure & boost) which I had hoped would arrive yesterday so I could install them while I had the tach off.
I also forgot to add to the aforementioned fault list: 5E40_"Steering Angle Implausible". This might have something to do with my LF camber being slightly (-1.2°) negative opposed to RF at 0° (no camber=absolutely straight up and down)
I have no clue - but to once again; throw more money/parts at this Mini = wheel speed sensors,brake fluid level sensor and try to have someone figure out the steering angle fault. Maybe that will resolve the 5E19.

EDIT: Just an afterthought - I read instructions about how to rest the ECU. I've done a few (minor) mods: 15%, CAI box and suspension....I have yet to have it tuned. I wonder if resetting the ECU might help....or cause any adverse resutls?

 

Re-setting the ECU is worth a shot. Probably won't solve to the depth of your issues but I don't think it will hurt anything either. I re-set my ECU 3-4 times this year and never had any adverse results.

 

I agree.
i've already replaced some of the suspected parts.
I don't think I have much to lose at this point

 

I enjoyed several spirited drives with no errors. Today, 5e19 returned so the search for a cause (and a solution) will continue. @Here2Go What parts have you replaced on your car?

 

Both front ABS/wheel speed sensors (2wice), Rear wheel sensor, brake wear sensors front & rear... I just ordered another set of 6ix.
Having a confusing time trying to source a brake fluid level sensor. I'm also, reluctantly having to investigate my steering wheel sensor (5E40_"Steering Angle Implausible"), to see of the brushes are dirty/worn. However - Live Data reads that it is dead on = clocking from L-R and dead center. Live Data on my OBDII Creator C110+ shows all is well
Reset my ECU last week - Codes remain.. I have no idea what's going on with the 5E19 fault. I can't imagine ALL of the wheel sensors I replaced were bad/faulty???

I received my oil and boost gauge. I've just finished up DIY/fabbing the the pods and connection mount. Turned out nice and was a fun project . I'll have the tach off again soon and install after the paint has cured for 72hrs. Maybe driving tach-less for a few days might have a positive impact?

While I'm waiting on my oil pressure sending adapter, copper tubing, silicone vacuum line for the boost gauge to arrive - I'm going to finally install my rear adjustable control arms (tomorrow) and try to realign the front wheels to see if I can reset/clear the 5E40 fault.

Glad to hear you've got your little guy on the road and seems to be running well!!!
EDIT: BTW, Did you get a SES light on the tach when the 5E19 came back?

 

I agree, it seems unlikely that all of the sensors went bad at once. I'm thinking maybe gremlins in one of the controllers but that's not based on any hard evidence. Today I'm putting the car on stands to prepare for a suspension refresh. In about a week, we're heading west for our oldest son's graduation so I probably won't dive into this problem until the beginning of June. The good news is that it really doesn't impact my enjoyment of the car.

I did get an SES light but only for a couple of seconds. I also get a DSC light. Previously, the DSC light would go out after a few seconds as well. This time, it stayed on until I restarted the car. After the couple of seconds of reduced power when the SES came on, I couldn't detect any difference in power or drivability.

 

Interesting.
When the "Trifecta" first occurred (SES,DSC,TPS) lamps lit up on my clock. I changed the LF wheel speed sensor and everything was fine. I don't recall even having to clear the codes.
It's been a while; but If I recall, A while back I had an issue where the Mini would stumble/surge/jerk under throttle/boost. One day the 5E19 fault popped up when I launched the car at a light and it stumbled severely and went into limp mode. The dash lit up like a pinball machine. After pulling over and shutting down - cleared the faults/no warning lights - restarted the car and drove to my destination. The Mini felt fine as long as I didn't tromp on it. The stumble/jerk continued until I changed out my TMAP, MAP and new NGK plug wires. As I recall, the main issue was resolved when I installed in a new TMAP. The car has been running awesome since then. However, I could never clear the 5E19.
I may need to invest in another BMW OBDII ...

Not sure; but it sounds to me as if you've replaced everything during your restoration.(?)
I remain baffled.

 

I haven't replaced anything DSC related (speed sensors, etc) so I may have to look into that. Of course, how does one know which sensor to replace when an error is intermittent? I'll look at the wiring from the ABS module to make sure it is dry and none of the shielding is compromised. 5e19 is the only code I have so I don't think the TMAP is a likely culprit. Sometimes I wish there were fewer electronics in modern cars, though that may fall under the heading of "Be careful what you wish for."

 

Just a thought....
To your point; I wonder if your issue might involve a malfunctioning DSC module located behind the Ebrake under the center console?

Just an unrelated 5E19, thought...
You mentioned in your previous post with respect to suspension work/upgrade.
As I mentioned earlier; After replacing/upgrading my entire strut assembly and anti mushrooming plates (cravenspeed bottom indurators & M7 top plates) - my camber L&R were completely different. Car drives straight....BUT it's so annoying to see/know.
Yep - Throwing more money at this Mini; I now understand the reasoning to go with $adjustable camber plates$.

My apologies for dragging out this thread with "unrelated" to the 5E19.

 

I've wondered that too. It's on the checklist of items to check. I'm going to start with things that don't require parts and work my way up the food chain.
Edit: That module is over $1200 new so I hope that's not the cause.

I haven't yet replaced suspension parts on an R53 but as I recall on my Countryman, the front shock mount studs can move around within the holes in the tower. The alignment I had done after installing coilovers showed different camber values on the front. I realized that I hadn't positioned the front shocks equally within the tower. After adjusting that, I took it back to the shop and they were able to get the camber settings to be the same. I don't know if my adjustment made a difference or if I just got a better tech the second time. I've seen guys in videos mark the nut positions before removing the front shocks. This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway: Does it matter how the top mount studs are positioned within the tower holes.

 

$1,2 !!!

On the R50 & R53 the top mount studs on the struts are in a triangle shaped pattern. They'll only go on one way in relation to the hole pattern on the strut tower. Be sure the springs are clocked and seated correctly.
With regard to camber on the R53 - There is no way to adjust without camber adjustment plates. I've read some owners drill out the holes in an oblong fashion on the towers to facilitate a "DIY" camber adjustment...(I personally don't subscribe to this rationale).
In addition to your question; (whether going with new strut top mounts or your original), It would be prudent to pound/flatten out the top of your strut towers if there are signs of mushrooming/deformation. As well as the original strut mounts if the "ears" are bent, if the bearings are good, and choose to reuse them.

I just finished installing rear adjustable control arms this afternoon. I couldn't see what is causing the camber in the front to be so off. I guess I'll be getting front adjustable camber plates sooner than I planned.

 

That was my reaction too. Fortunately, I discovered that AllMag has them for $200. That's much more palatable.

I didn't do a very good job of describing what I mean. I was referring to the holes being oversized compared to the studs, allowing the mount to move before being tightened down. So, for example, you could install with the studs hard against the left side of the holes vs. against the right side of the holes. It's probably no more than a quarter inch of difference but could it affect camber?

I'm not sure how much mushrooming I have but plan to flatten the shock towers before installing the new shocks and Cravenspeed defenders.

 

AllMag is awesome. Bought from them several times. Parts were very clean and shipping was teleportation fast. Good score!

The holes are pretty tight in relation to the diameter/placement of the studs. Not much forgiveness if anything is bent.

The first time I replaced the struts using my original top mounts, (after a little work), Camber was perfect....
Although, at first, when I reused my "good" original top bearing plates; I had a heck of a time aligning the studs in the holes. Pulled it back apart and with closer inspection realized one of the stud ears was slightly bent. Rather than drilling out the hole larger on the strut tower; I drilled a hole in a block of wood, inserted the stud face down into the hole, clamped the top plate down and pounded the stud ear flat w/a BFH. 3hours work on one strut - but afterwards the studs lined up perfectly.
The second/last time; I replaced with all new top plates, hardware and strut tower reinforcement plates - The Left wheel camber is now more negative than the Right.(???)
(My apology for the longwinded answer).