Any more night shots? I am very interested in doing this myself as it looks like the parts out and available now are much easier to work with. After putting FX projectors in my Ford Ranger housings, I think the mini H1 projectors will work just fine.

 

Nice cut off, no hotspots I could see, nice prism effect too. Looks like they might be aimed a little high though. If the pattern against the wall was on flat ground level would be the same height as our lights, maybe 3 feet tops. See how when it shines on surfaces further away it is higher? The license plates and street signs were lit up way in the distance on that other pic too. If you come down a bit it may fix that near field problem too. Make the top cut off point down at the intersection of where the field ends on a flat road.

Got any high beam pics?

What was the final price tag for the conversion?

 

Still liking the lights? Any more pictures?

 

I got a hold of the shop and the price is the best I have seen for something like this by a longshot. They work with what you have so if you already have an HID conversion they can reuse your parts to keep the cost down. Joey mod is free if you want it, in any color you want too. The projectors are excellent quality made for this type of application, not a Honda take off that may be difficult to mount etc. However, Ill be honest and air my concern about how they are aimed in the photos. The "after adjustment" pics look to be pointing uphill quite drastically and I think that is adding to the near field problem. If he has it adjusted all the way down and that is the pattern I think I will keep my current set up.

 

how about some pictures of them installed in you Mini

 

So my stock headlights are also "under the knife" and I should have them back by late next week. I'm going with "joey-modded reflectors" and laser blue bezel. I also lent him my stock OEM bi-xenon housing to try and duplicate as much of as a reference.

I cannot wait to pick them up and drive home, the roads leading from Black Flame Customs has some dark, barely lit streets to really show how well these lights work!

 

If one of you guys can take a pic with them adjusted all the way down, that will tell me all I need to know. What I am concerned about is if they are pointing up in the housing further than you can adjust for on the car. Other than that I am sold already. More pics please. Also let us see the high beam pattern. This is Bixenon right?

 

Posted in a seperate thread...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...eadlights.html

 

dead link

 

Weird it worked yesterday. I was there...I know I was...maybe? But yeah seriously it did work yesterday.

 

Works now, Thanks. That was exactly what I was asking for. Good adjustability afterall. Pattern looks great so I take back all the doubt I cast on this vendor.

Now how about that high beam shot?

 

We really don't have any electrical person to get all the wiring from this set up so others can wire up HID for their Mini ?

 

No High beam shots after how many months makes me wonder if this is a single filament system. Bixenon bulbs usually have 2 sets of leads, a high voltage set like that shown on page one of this thread (the thick silicon red and blue wires) and a second set of really light gage 12v leads to actuate the high beam. I can't see those in the picture. I included a pic of a bixenon bulb back when I had the JCarlos style kit. You can see 2 sets of leads (if you stare really hard), gotta get a better camera.

Having a single filament makes the wiring easy. You go straight from your headlight connector to a ballast and from there to the HID light. The resistor trick will stop the high beam bulbout warning on the open circuit and the ballast may be enough to stop the lowbeam bulbout. Worst case you add another resistor to the lowbeam side.

 

I am about to order a 35W H13 DDM tuning kit with bulb-out warning eliminators. Just want to make sure before purchase.

Does the DDM kit still show bulb-out warning?

I can go with Smoke05S solultion with bulky resistors......

Is there any other way to avoid bulb-out waning light?

Thanks.

 

I havent had a chance to put in my bulb-out eliminators from DDM. I have the 55w and hadn't had a problem besides the warning when the car turns on. I guess it depends how much that bothers you.

 

There is a new way to simply turn off the bulbout scan function on the car. It is expensive though. I have heard conflicting reports of the cable costing $120 and $320.00. I think the software is downloadable but it sounds like it is tough to learn and very easy to completely screw up your car. There are some experts on NAM that can walk you through what you need to do though.

 

Hope this is helpful to other people looking for solutions to this same problem:

I had the identical headache with my 2011 cooper. There are two types of bulbs you can use in the Mini Cooper to retain high beams: Flex bulbs, and Hi-Lo bulbs.

Flex bulbs such as this one


and hi-lo bulbs such as this one


The flex bulb activates a solenoid to point the bulb upwards, while the hi-lo kit uses an actual filament (as you can see by the picture).

When the car checks the hi beam in the flex kit, it sees a solenoid...not a bulb. Some of the solutions suggested by other users involve resistors and such, which make the car see the proper impedence on the filament. These solutions are ingenious, and very effective, but there is a simpler method:

Use hi-lo bulbs instead because they have an actual filament for the car to read. Actually...when that bulb goes out, the car will correctly display a "bulb" out warning.

Hope this helps!!!

 

I guess my bulb out eliminators will have the same outcome. I haven't put them in yet. I will once all this snow goes away in my area it seems to snow everyday!

 

Just to let you guys know. i successfully installed oem bi-xenons on my non-xenon mini. the process involved taking the headlights apart, rewiring, installing a resistor for high beam, and installing a D1 hit kit with a bulb out eliminator.
Upside: Xenons work, flash to pass works
Downside: no high beam. the bi-xenon opens the flap but the bulb doesnt stay on. Im sure it can be rewired differently but thats all i could do for now.

 

Hi
Could you please post how to add resistor to D1S? I got OEM D1S so I can just add a resistor to get it to work.
Thanks!

 

Clubmaut, the computer is shutting off your low beam power when you hit the high beam switch. If you are daring you can reprogram the FRM module to make the lighting work correctly. Or a way cheaper way would be to use an appropriate diodes to feed your ballast with the power from both the original low beam and high beam power source (still need to leave your resistor in place). The diodes would serve to isolate the power.

 

Or you power from the battery using the harness. The relay keeps the low beam energized while you select the high beam. The diode method is what JCarlos was using so if you make your own use something really beefy and heat sink it in some way. The relay harness for our car is the same as a Dodge Neon (which also uses H13) and resistors yada yada. . . Then again who needs the high beam! I never ever use mine. Good work Clubmamut! Where did you find the projectors?


Orangeshoeskid, check out my gallery. I documented the pattern of an HID conversion on second generation mini reflector housing. I have a projector housing pattern for reference from a first generation factory Mini projector. It is one tenth the price so if you can live with the pattern go with it.

 

I'm about to do the same thing with mine. I've got the halogen oem lights in now and hoping it's possible to get the hid kit in and hope it wont look too stupid.

 

a local jcw owner sold me his xenons cause he got the black xenons..im still waiting for the headlight washer nozzles tho..

 

Just a quick update about the DDM kit...their bulb out eliminators do not work there is still the bulb out code and flickering of the high beam but I rarelyyy use high beam anyway so i dont really mind.