Electrical 55W HID For Lights
55W HID For Lights
DDM Tuning states that they do not recommend the 55W bulb for smaller fog light housings because of the heat they put off. Has anyone replaced their fogs with 55W and encountered a problem? I did a search and could not find anyone complaining about it but I want to make sure before I order them. Thanks!
EDIT: Sorry I just realized the typo in the thread title. 55W HID Fog Lights
EDIT: Sorry I just realized the typo in the thread title. 55W HID Fog Lights
I can't believe it would be hotter than a halogen bulb. I have 55 watt HID headlights and a 55 watt halogen fog (at least that is what it says on the nokya box). I'll try to get a reading using a non contact thermometer and get back to you.
Awesome man thanks. How did you get your 55 watt HID headlights to work without the bulb out warning if you don't mind helping real quick? and where did you order them? I know there are many threads on this but I am hoping for some better solutions soon!
Sorry for the delay Tyler, I use a resistor between hot and ground on both H13 connectors (4 resistors total, 6 ohm 50 watt, outer conductors are hot, center is ground) that fakes out the computer and I get no bulbout. It's been dead reliable for 9 months so far. I got my kit from a friend. It is the type with the relay harness that connects to the battery. See my gallery to check out the pattern compared to Mini projectors. Send me a PM and I'll give you his email address.
Last edited by smoke05S; Sep 22, 2010 at 11:52 PM.
Sorry for the delay Tyler, I use a resistor between hot and ground on both H13 connectors (4 resistors total, 6 ohm 50 watt, outer conductors are hot, center is ground) that fakes out the computer and I get no bulbout. It's been dead reliable for 9 months so far. I got my kit from a friend. It is the type with the relay harness that connects to the battery. See my gallery to check out the pattern compared to Mini projectors. Send me a PM and I'll give you his email address.
could you please take couple pictures to show the wiring for those resistors?
Thanks so much in advance!
-Mike
Sorry for the delay Tyler, I use a resistor between hot and ground on both H13 connectors (4 resistors total, 6 ohm 50 watt, outer conductors are hot, center is ground) that fakes out the computer and I get no bulbout. It's been dead reliable for 9 months so far. I got my kit from a friend. It is the type with the relay harness that connects to the battery. See my gallery to check out the pattern compared to Mini projectors. Send me a PM and I'll give you his email address.
This is a trick I use for 35W Plug-and-Play HID's:
Just run a wire from the +12V on the left to the +12V on the right. That's it, just one wire. This stabilizes the voltage and doesn't give you any warning lights and eliminates any flickering. I have confirmed this on my foglights.
Also if you don't want the bulb-out warning you can reprogram the footwell module to turn off the cold and hot bulb-checks on any of the lights in the car with NCS Expert. It is very intense undertaking requiring a D-CAN cable $120 and a ton of learning.
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Hello Group and Happy Holiday's
I did the modification on the lights, but i wanted to do something a little different.
I have the Xeon lights and for the turn signal's bulbs, i was thinking of putting HID lights.
Has anyone done anything like this. Is it possible on the fitting, would it be just easier just have a bright LED bulb and make the turn signal into a running light.
I want the turn signal bulb to be the running lights. Wiring is not the issue, Fitting HID is??
I did the modification on the lights, but i wanted to do something a little different.
I have the Xeon lights and for the turn signal's bulbs, i was thinking of putting HID lights.
Has anyone done anything like this. Is it possible on the fitting, would it be just easier just have a bright LED bulb and make the turn signal into a running light.
I want the turn signal bulb to be the running lights. Wiring is not the issue, Fitting HID is??
tintman
v^2/r or 12*12/6 = 24 watts per side, or 48w at one time. When the high beams are on the lows drop out so it is still 48 watts total at any one time extra and it's off if the lights are off. Doesn't the radio draw about 48 watts? Anyway, you don't need the full 35 to fake out the computer. And because the resistors are rated 50 watts each they don't get that hot running at 1/2 capacity. It's been working for a solid year without touching it. I have a clamp on DC amp meter, maybe I'll check out the total current. I have a feeling the HID's do not draw a steady 35W (or in my case 55W). Plus the stock halogens are 55W not 35W so there isn't anything extra there on that circuit.
How does running a 12v wire to the open connector stop the bulbout on the headlights? Or was that a jumper from one side to the other? Got any pics? longevity reports?
Strobey you have my attention! I just found one of your threads. Very interesting I'd love to dump all these little jumper and resistor tricks and just turn it off like an R53.
Empire Let me see if I understand. Were you going to make your fogs flash as turn signals and convert your turn signals to Yellow Fogs? I don't think I understand if you were going to make the HID Flash or just switch the location of the signal. Turn signals have a pattern like your high beam so it would be more of a yellow driving light instead of a foglight.
v^2/r or 12*12/6 = 24 watts per side, or 48w at one time. When the high beams are on the lows drop out so it is still 48 watts total at any one time extra and it's off if the lights are off. Doesn't the radio draw about 48 watts? Anyway, you don't need the full 35 to fake out the computer. And because the resistors are rated 50 watts each they don't get that hot running at 1/2 capacity. It's been working for a solid year without touching it. I have a clamp on DC amp meter, maybe I'll check out the total current. I have a feeling the HID's do not draw a steady 35W (or in my case 55W). Plus the stock halogens are 55W not 35W so there isn't anything extra there on that circuit.
How does running a 12v wire to the open connector stop the bulbout on the headlights? Or was that a jumper from one side to the other? Got any pics? longevity reports?
Strobey you have my attention! I just found one of your threads. Very interesting I'd love to dump all these little jumper and resistor tricks and just turn it off like an R53.
Empire Let me see if I understand. Were you going to make your fogs flash as turn signals and convert your turn signals to Yellow Fogs? I don't think I understand if you were going to make the HID Flash or just switch the location of the signal. Turn signals have a pattern like your high beam so it would be more of a yellow driving light instead of a foglight.
Last edited by smoke05S; Jan 17, 2011 at 11:27 PM.
Mike wrote:
Sorry for confusion you. I wanted to have my turn signal replaced into a running light and adding an LED light for the turn signal, but it was too much work. HID in fog light was done, turned out great. I also added LED lights and it also came out great. I left the turn signal the same way it was.
Sorry for confusion you. I wanted to have my turn signal replaced into a running light and adding an LED light for the turn signal, but it was too much work. HID in fog light was done, turned out great. I also added LED lights and it also came out great. I left the turn signal the same way it was.
tintman
v^2/r or 12*12/6 = 24 watts per side, or 48w at one time. When the high beams are on the lows drop out so it is still 48 watts total at any one time extra and it's off if the lights are off. Doesn't the radio draw about 48 watts? Anyway, you don't need the full 35 to fake out the computer. And because the resistors are rated 50 watts each they don't get that hot running at 1/2 capacity. It's been working for a solid year without touching it. I have a clamp on DC amp meter, maybe I'll check out the total current. I have a feeling the HID's do not draw a steady 35W (or in my case 55W).
How does running a 12v wire to the open connector stop the bulbout? Or was that a jumper from one side to the other? Got any pics? longevity reports?
Empire Let me see if I understand. Were you going to make your fogs flash as turn signals and convert your turn signals to Yellow Fogs? I don't think I understand if you were going to make the HID Flash or just switch the location of the signal. Turn signals have a pattern like your high beam so it would be more of a yellow driving light instead of a foglight.
v^2/r or 12*12/6 = 24 watts per side, or 48w at one time. When the high beams are on the lows drop out so it is still 48 watts total at any one time extra and it's off if the lights are off. Doesn't the radio draw about 48 watts? Anyway, you don't need the full 35 to fake out the computer. And because the resistors are rated 50 watts each they don't get that hot running at 1/2 capacity. It's been working for a solid year without touching it. I have a clamp on DC amp meter, maybe I'll check out the total current. I have a feeling the HID's do not draw a steady 35W (or in my case 55W).
How does running a 12v wire to the open connector stop the bulbout? Or was that a jumper from one side to the other? Got any pics? longevity reports?
Empire Let me see if I understand. Were you going to make your fogs flash as turn signals and convert your turn signals to Yellow Fogs? I don't think I understand if you were going to make the HID Flash or just switch the location of the signal. Turn signals have a pattern like your high beam so it would be more of a yellow driving light instead of a foglight.
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