Title says it all. I'm trying to find out if my CarPC turning off during an engine crank is because the fuse itself is losing power, or if the DC adapter is being over/under volted during the crank. I'm using fuse F23 in the fuse panel (which used to be F21 in the "hot or not" thread above but seems to have changed on the 09s). It's the one that comes on when the doors are unlocked, and goes off after 30/60 minutes.

 

under volted is my guess. it's likely because when cranking the voltage drops below 12V and the car adapter you're using for the carpc probably only works when 12 or above. you can get a fancy carpc power supply regulator that survives cranking like the Carnetix 2140 i'm using.

 

If that's the case (undervolted) then I think I'm going to pick up one of the cheaper startup/shutdown controllers from mo-co-so or mp3car.com, they say they will regulate 12V and survive a crank and it's easier than trying to get a Carnetix or M2-ATX to try and power my Artigo since the Artigo already has a DC-DC PSU inside. Is your Carnetix running off a direct 12V line from the battery, or did you tap some other line?

 

I just used an add-a-circuit to an always-on fuse.

 

get a can cap, and a diode. With the DC/DC in the unit it will do fine with the diode drop, and size the cap based on current demand and cranking time.

Matt

 

yeah, I thought about using something cheaper but with the module from mo-co-so I can also have it trigger the CarPC's power button which will initiate a hibernation when I kill the ignition....so it's probably worth the $40.

 

As Dr Obnxs states you could go the diode/capacitor route but i have found that can also be a problem with the standard battery voltage on a MINI being only about 11.8 VDC at the Fuse panel. The Artigo that you are using really needs a very stable 12-12.5VDC.

My suggestion is that you use the Carnetix P-1900 or P-2140. Either of these will give you start up and shutdown procedure times that will allow the computer to start up and shut down automatically thus not damaging your software installation by immediate power off during the start up routines of the computer.

These power supplies are not cheap but the savings in software restore times and hardware repair time make them very attractive.

I will be changing from the 1900 to the 2140 next spring due t its more robust set of features. The 1900 has set start and stop times where the 2140 if fully adjustable via software.

 

schatzy62, what would be the benefit (for me) of a P1900 or 2140 over this :
http://mo-co-so.com/cart/products/Au...ler-97-43.html

I can see the benefits of being able to program the automatic shutdown times of the 2140, but if I'm just trying to survive a crank and possibly add automatic hibernation later, wouldn't the $40 SSC suffice?

I'm already running with EWF and HORM turned on, so the likelyhood of losing the OS is minimal - yes I could possibly lose my Centrafuse partition and my music, but all of that is backed up elsewhere.

Just wondering if anyone has used on of those mo-co-so SSCs, I had mo-co-so send me the manual and it seems pretty configurable....

http://store.mo-co-so.com/pub/usdc20d_Spec_1_2.pdf

What are your thoughts? You guys are the experts at putting this stuff in MINIs, I love your setup schatzy62...

 

I know that with an Aircraft, it is important to have the 'Avionics' (electronics) Buss switches off while cranking engines, starter windings can induce hi-volt spikes back through the system.

Most car's radios turn themselves off during engine start and I don't think it is just to 'un-load' the battery.

 

The MO-SO-C) startup/shutdown controller would work great for your specific application. It's only disadvantage is that if you decide to up grade your computer at a later point in time you will have to find one that has a 12VDC input.

This item will not work for my computer as it requires a 18VDC input as to many other small form factor computers.

I do expect that any more will be available in the future that will be 12VDC though so replacement or upgrade may not be so much of a factor in the future.

This controller seems to do more than the 1900 and almost everything that the 2140 will do. The only thing I see from the spec and data sheet is that it is not adjustable for times from the computer. But that in my book is not really needed.

So for your installation i would go for it.

P.S. As the weather has gotten colder here i have found that my system has a temperature problem. It will not start up below 38 degrees F. I have been very busy lately and not had time to look into this but i think it is a thermal problem with a connector not making contact on the hard drive.

Good luck with your install.

 

After reading thru the document you posted a link to more carefully I did come up with one thing that may or may not be a problem for you. I.E. you live in Barre VT which has cold winters and thus it would not work well for you.

This controller has a temperature circuit in it that will not allow it to work below 0 degrees C which works out to be 32 degrees F. So to anyone reading this living in a northern climate this contorller will prevent you carputer form working in cold weather. I.E. I live in Mass and the temps here regularly get and stay below freezing (32F/0C) thus this would eliminate the computer form working for the most part of 5-6 months of use of the car.

Chimera you live in Barre VT which has cold winters and thus it would not work well for you. Sorry I did not pick up on this earlier before I recommended this item.