So I'm driving back from dinner tonight and go to put the clutch in to downshift to a stop, felt a very minor "pop" and the clutch feel completely changed. I put the car in neutral and the clutch feels very very stiff. It still moves thorugh its entire range, but is extremely stiff and my car will not go into gear at all now!

I won't have a chance to get it towed until Tuesday, so any ideas as to what is happening??

Also, there was/is no clutch smell and no strange noises when I put it in.

 

I had a similiar experience and it turned out the slave cylinder on my clutch gave out. Search for "slave cylinder" under the stock problems forum to see if you can further diagnos it. Mine was covered under warranty.

 

I've had the slave cylinder go out before. This is completely opposite of what happened to me when that occured. Normally when the slave cylinder goes out, the pedal loses all pressure and falls to the floor. This time though, my pedal pressure increased dramatically. I'm frustrated!!

 

Start by looking at the pedal linkage under the dash; because you felt it that sounds suspect. If that looks well then get under the vehicle, take the slave off the mount and operate the clutch arm manualy. If it is too stiff to move then you know it is internal.

 

I'm with Thumper on this. Slave cylinder i'd think would make the clutch lose pressure, not make it stiffer. Could a failed throw out bearing cause this? The clutch disk itself failing shouldn't cause any real change in pedal force.

I knew your clutch felt weird when I drove it Thumper, just doesn't make sense that it could be so different. It sucks too, she was running great last week .

Let me know if you need anything. I'll drive out and give you a hand. I'm free almost all week. In the mean time i'll ask Danny and Jan and see what they think.

 

Yea, I've heard about throw-out bearings causing problems...but have no idea what a faulted throw-out bearing would make the car feel like. Anyone care to share??

Also, if the clutch went out, I'd assume that it would have been slipping for a few hundred miles now, but my clutch has never slipped, so I don't think it is the clutch itself.

 

In doing a bit of research it seems that one failure mode of the clutch master/slave cylinder would cause a hard clutch. It's caused by the piston siezing or dragging. It seems odd that you'd have two failures of the slave cylinder in such a short span.

FAILURE MODES:

• Seal fails, fluid blows past piston (and eventually begins to leak out of the boot). Noticeable as fluid loss in the master cylinder reservoir. Piston travel is reduced or eliminated. (this can result from a torn or rotted seal, or pitted cylinder, etc.)
• Piston seizes or drags. Clutch may be engaged, disengaged, or sluggish, depending on the position and amount of movement of the piston. Caused by corrosion, crud, shredded seal, etc. This may result in a hard pedal, and/or failure of the seal. This could also destroy a weak seal in the master cylinder. (R/R slave cylinder)
• Air in system. Reduced piston travel, clutch won't fully disengage. (bleed system)
• Bad/missing lever or piston return spring. (This varies with design).

I've bolded both of the failure modes that appear to be similar to what you experianced.

 

Yea, it's unlikely the clutch would have failed catastrophically and that still wouldn't explain not getting the car into gear. I vote slave cyl with throwout bearing as the runner up. With so few miles on your car there's no reason why your throwout bearing should be dead. You don't hold the clutch in at intersections, so that's another reason why that wouldn't make sense.

 

Thanks for the research Nick!!!

 

Get under the vehicle, remove the slave cylinder, operate the clutch arm and the slave plunger separately by hand. If the slave plunger will not contract with hand strength, or it feels gritty, or when the boot is removed fluid escapes, or air escaping noises are heard, then that is suspect. Wiggle the clutch arm, there should be a quarter inch of play with very little rattle as it moves the release bearing up and down on the guide tube, accutate the clutch arm through the entire range by hand for feedback (you may need some help with an adjustable wrench on the end), if it is impossible to move or it makes plucking noises, then it is time to drop the transmission and look for an internal cause. If all is well on that end then look at the pedal linkage under the dash.

It will be necessary for you to participate in the troubleshooting process if you want accurate suggestions.

 

The car is still under warranty, I think he was just looking for some clues as to what could have happened.

 

Just for safety, so you don't get stuck in a bad neighborhood, or on a busy highway at night, or a lonely highway at night, ...when your clutch and transmission is working properly, teach yourself to drive you car without using the clutch.

If you really wanted, you could drive from NY to SF without ever touching your clutch (assuming it breaks in a way that it is still engaged). If you just melt it down, then you are stuck. But since out MINIs have a history of master and slave failures,,,, knowing how to drive w/o your clutch just might get you off the road, or back home or somewhere that you can at least be safe when you get a tow or fix it or whatever. You can also do this without damaging the transmission if you learn how to do it. It takes a little bit of practice, but is easy.

Just my thoughts.

YD

 

Yea i thought about that last night! I was going to ask for a basic explanation as to the process involved, but I figured people would start barking at me saying how bad it is for the car. Can you give me a basic overview of what is necessary to drive clutchless in case of emergencies like this? Thank you!

 

Im interested in that process too.

About your MINI thumper, how many miles are on it? Im just curious. Mine only has 32,000. Im not looking forward to new clutch bits.

 

It is obvious that you boys didn't grow up on old worthless junkers where you felt lucky to get to school and back, or wherever you wanted to get home from.

There is a value to drving totally unreliable junk during your younger days.... you learn how to cope with everything tearing up. Anyway, the quick version

Assuming your clutch release (clutch pedal, for whatever reason won't release the clutch). Your clutch is engaged all the time and you can't release it. Also assuming your pedal will activate your starter safety switch so you can push the clutch in and get the engine running. Back in my days, there was no such thing as this safety switch.

Say you just coasted to the side of the road when your clutch pedal quit releasing the clutch mechanism.

Put tranny in neutral and start the engine.....if it runs OK and is warmed up, turn engine off.

Now put tranny in first gear (assuming you intend to go forward). Now pay attention, cause once you get going, at some time you'll need to stop. So, turn the key.. the car will start lurching and in a second or two the engine will catch and you are moving in first gear. If you only intend to go a very short distance to get off the road or out of the intersection or off the RR tracks, then just drive in first like normal until you get where you want to go.

When you get where you want to go, turn the key off and hit the brakes, you will coast to a stop. If you need to get going again, with the tranny in first, hit the key and you are going again.

Now if you feel confident, and want to move onto another gear, then accelerate in first and then let off the gas about half way and gently and confidently pull the tranny out of first and start pulling into second... don't force it, when the engine speed falls to the right rpm and matches the correct road speed, the tranny will fall into second just like it would if had pushed in the clutch. Remember, just keep some real pull on the shifter, but don't muscle it, it is not necessary. You can go on through all the rest of the gears if you want, and you can downshift if you want (a little dif technique). Once you get into a high gear, you can drive as far as you want. If you must stop, then repeat the above. I've done this many times when I used to go out 'doing things I shouldn't' and the term 'get a tow home' wasn't even in my vocabulary or my pocketbook.

If done properly, this will not hurt your tranny. If you tear out your tranny, then you forced it and I take no responsibility. If possible, get someone who knows how to do this to show you and then watch you and correct your technique.... once you get the feel, it is very easy and safe.

I'd really hate to see someone stuck on the side of the road or worse and get in trouble when they could have gotten to a safer place very easily. This world is not a friendly place sometimes. Once you learn this, teach it to your wife and kids.

YD

 

I have just under 30k on mine. It's an 05. Don't worry about having to replace clutch bits...I've heard many that last upwards of 100k. Also, my car is modified and I do drive it with a bit more "spirit" than most, so I'd only assume my stuff will break before most . If anything, the only thing you'll have to worry about is a failed slave cylinder as it is really common, especially on the 05's.

Thanks for the insight! Your correct about us youngin's never having to have learned these sorts of things . I've always wondered how though, its good safety! I'll wait till I can practice on a car that is NOT mine though haha.

 

Yep, 05 MCS here, slave cylinder went out at about 26k, similar symptoms as yours. I also found mine to be heat sensitive, as the first time i had the gear engage problem it was fine the next morning after it was cooled off. The dealer had like five 05 MCS' in for the same problem, the same day i brought mine in. I didn't even need an appointment since it was an issue that could potentially leave me stranded. Dropped it off in the morning and had it back end of the day

 

Blake you drive with more than a "Bit of sprit" you drive like you've been instilled with the spirit of Mario Andretti .

 

Hahaha your getting to know me too well !

I gauruntee you though, my driving hard is way easier on the clutch than some average driver that can't drive stick for beans.

 

Fantasy

 

UPDATE:

Car has been fixed and drives fantastic now! Turn's out I had a broken pressure plate...car was fixed in a day under warranty! So, in all, I got a new clutch, presure plate, flywheel, throw-out bearing for freeeee .


South Bay MINI is awesome, and I recommend them to anyone in the West LA/South Bay/OC area!

 

Well thats good.

I jinxed myself. My T/O bearing and possibly my pressure plate are shot, mileage: 32020. It was instantanious, clutch ok then clutch pedel is hard and makes grinding sounds.

Work is to be done this next week to the tune of $800 laobor and $400 for a spec stage 2 clutch (might as well with the need for a new pressure plate and T/O bearing)