Drivetrain What to do?
What to do?
I need a little help, I have done some mods and I am at a point where I don't know what else to do. I am looking fo a little more get up and have a $0-1000 budget. So far I have done Dinan CAI, Alta 2.5 exhaust, Alta 15% pulley, M7 OCC ( I know that has nothing to do with more power) Dinan Stage 3 software, Dinan Stage 5 software, Dinan T.B., Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve, NGK Iridum IX plugs, M7 180 thermostat.
What do you all think? Thank you in advance for your help and knowledge. Jeff
What do you all think? Thank you in advance for your help and knowledge. Jeff
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I know DMH heads start at 1,200 then there is thumper about 1500 bucks and others .... search around and take your time deciding which one but this MOD will give you noticeable gains. Install about 500 bucks.
Regarding DFIC - I live in Florida (we invented heatsoak) and am very happy w/ my DFIC but you should do a head and/or header before the DFIC.
Header - you can get an OBX or Megan header for 200 bucks. If you get a head you will want a header.
BUT no worries - talked with your wife, explained the situation and your budget has been revised for the head and header
Regarding DFIC - I live in Florida (we invented heatsoak) and am very happy w/ my DFIC but you should do a head and/or header before the DFIC.
Header - you can get an OBX or Megan header for 200 bucks. If you get a head you will want a header.
BUT no worries - talked with your wife, explained the situation and your budget has been revised for the head and header
DFIC is a great mod. It doesn;t matter where you live, it will only work better the colder it is outside.
As far as getting a head, save up and get the Revolution head which should be publicly realeased in a couple months. There is a thread on here about it where a guy with fewer engine mods than you made 230 something horsepower. It will probably cost in the $2000 range.
As far as getting a head, save up and get the Revolution head which should be publicly realeased in a couple months. There is a thread on here about it where a guy with fewer engine mods than you made 230 something horsepower. It will probably cost in the $2000 range.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Oddly enough, as the ambient temps here rise (from 25F to 65F) the TE of my DFIC is rising. My most recently posted measurements reflect this. Of course, most ICs will work better the higher the ambient temps. Dr O has all the terminology for this, but it's akin to headroom.
True. My response was to the notion that the DFIC was not needed because he lives in a colder climate. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the DFIC is able to cool the charge to a temperature close to ambient temp (as demonstrated in numerous DFIC analysis situations), it would folow that in a colder climate the DFIC would make the charge cooler than it would be in a warmer climate.
Oddly enough, as the ambient temps here rise (from 25F to 65F) the TE of my DFIC is rising. My most recently posted measurements reflect this. Of course, most ICs will work better the higher the ambient temps. Dr O has all the terminology for this, but it's akin to headroom.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
True. My response was to the notion that the DFIC was not needed because he lives in a colder climate. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the DFIC is able to cool the charge to a temperature close to ambient temp (as demonstrated in numerous DFIC analysis situations), it would folow that in a colder climate the DFIC would make the charge cooler than it would be in a warmer climate.
That said, any IC will lower IATs in both hot and cold weather. I was simply saying that the relative lowering of temps (thermal efficiency) seems higher at higher ambient temps than at lower ambient temps. Of course, one could ask: why is the TE of a particular IC not constant? Unfortunately there are many variables that impact TE, including heat soak, wind speed, engine rpm, humidity. I've seen TEs as low as 60% and as high as 90% in my own measurements. Never 100% or greater, unfortunately! M7 originally reported a TE of 114% but it has never been replicated in my knowledge.
Unfortunately, also, there does not exist, in my knowledge, a single experiment in which a stock IC and a DFIC are measured and compared. It would require a meta analysis to come to any conclusions regarding relative efficiency I believe.
Heh. You seem to know much more about this than I do. I'm a simple Buisness major, so physics was never my strong point. It seems that everybody who datalogs gets drasticly varying temp differnces. I know Sid did some dataloging a while back where he reached 100% cooling efficiency using a homemade IC sprayer on the DFIC. Others have not seen that great of an improvement over the stock IC.
O well...
O well...
Well, I think it's quite complicated. The DFIC doesn't cool close to ambient in any of my tests. The --approach-- as it's called, which measures the temperature difference between IAT and ambient, is as low as 7F on occasions, which I suppose is close to ambient, but as high as 60F in stop-start traffic jams with long idling waits and short high-rpm bursts. As I have reported, the variance in any temperature is very high and generally swamps any measurement of temperature differences.
That said, any IC will lower IATs in both hot and cold weather. I was simply saying that the relative lowering of temps (thermal efficiency) seems higher at higher ambient temps than at lower ambient temps. Of course, one could ask: why is the TE of a particular IC not constant? Unfortunately there are many variables that impact TE, including heat soak, wind speed, engine rpm, humidity. I've seen TEs as low as 60% and as high as 90% in my own measurements. Never 100% or greater, unfortunately! M7 originally reported a TE of 114% but it has never been replicated in my knowledge.
Unfortunately, also, there does not exist, in my knowledge, a single experiment in which a stock IC and a DFIC are measured and compared. It would require a meta analysis to come to any conclusions regarding relative efficiency I believe.
That said, any IC will lower IATs in both hot and cold weather. I was simply saying that the relative lowering of temps (thermal efficiency) seems higher at higher ambient temps than at lower ambient temps. Of course, one could ask: why is the TE of a particular IC not constant? Unfortunately there are many variables that impact TE, including heat soak, wind speed, engine rpm, humidity. I've seen TEs as low as 60% and as high as 90% in my own measurements. Never 100% or greater, unfortunately! M7 originally reported a TE of 114% but it has never been replicated in my knowledge.
Unfortunately, also, there does not exist, in my knowledge, a single experiment in which a stock IC and a DFIC are measured and compared. It would require a meta analysis to come to any conclusions regarding relative efficiency I believe.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
There's no doubt that WMI significantly reduces IATs. As part of a system approach it also requires specific tuning of the ECU.
cheers,
Ya. Sid is helping me make one of my own. I love the potential of a WMI system, but like you said it takes tuning to eek the full potential out of it.
Your interest is welcome--the more of us interested in IATs the better it seems to me! I think you'll find that Sid's TEs greater than 100% were influenced by his water-meth injection system since he uses a dual charge system with injections pre- and post-IC. Very impressive!!
There's no doubt that WMI significantly reduces IATs. As part of a system approach it also requires specific tuning of the ECU.
cheers,
There's no doubt that WMI significantly reduces IATs. As part of a system approach it also requires specific tuning of the ECU.
cheers,
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
That's my own honest opinion, based on my own measurements. This is not to say that the product is not well designed and built, and actually does what it claims to do.
And as sndwave says, driving the friggin car is about as close as it gets to fun, with or without your pants on!
Yep. My suggestion is a Driver's course. Phil Wick's or the like. You will be amazed at how much faster and smoother you will be able to go once you explore your limits and learn how ot push them farther out!
Barring that, save up for the head. Really the next big place to go to improve your car. After that header/cat and a good tune.
Barring that, save up for the head. Really the next big place to go to improve your car. After that header/cat and a good tune.


