Drivetrain ALTA Water/Methonal Injection Results!
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ALTA Water/Methonal Injection Results!
MINI WATER INJECTION TEST #1
Through out this article I will be referring to Water/methonal injection as WI. With this entire test and install, we are showcasing this as something anyone can do. There is not a single part of this test that a person should feel scared to do except for the tuning which should be left up to a professional tuner.
Water injection has been used in many industries for a very long time. We are finally bringing it to the Mini world! Many have seen our PWI-1 system, and if you read the features from our site, you will be sold on it compared to other systems. This article is not about the PWI-1 system, but about using WI on the Mini cooper.
Why would you want to use WI on the Mini? The Intercooler is small, and lacks in the cooling department, smaller SC pulleys increase the charge temps, all these things increase the engine tendency to detonate or knock. So since running race fuel every day is not practical, the next best thing is water/methonal injection! The WI is only on when you are above a certain load point. Meaning only when the engine is about a certain RPM and or boost level. So it only injects it when you need it. This makes the consumption rate very low for normal driving conditions.
WI is all about cooling, which in turn controls detonation which allows the engine to make more power, and more power safer. Normally just injecting the mixture nets a loss in power. But with some cars, because of limitations of fuel and how the ECU is tuned, they can gain power. With the Mini some have seen gains with just injecting water/methanol, but with this test we will have to see!
Using the wonderful BimCOM software from RossTech, we collected some great convincing data!
We started with a customers 2005 Mini Cooper S (which BTW, Mr. Sterns Mini is one of the sweetest Minis around). This car has an ALTA 15% SC pulley, ALTA header, ALTA intake, stock IC, and Invidia 60mm exhaust.
As with all Mini Cooper S’s, or any boosted engine, more boost is the key to making power. Since boost isn’t going to change much unless we increase the SC speed, by a smaller pulley, or higher redline, the increases are not going to be huge, or are they??
INSTALLATION
There are a few good places to install the WI system in the Mini, but we chose a place that is both functional and shows off the system. With the install we choose to use the window washer tank (passenger side tank). Because the tank is much lower than the pump assembly, we will have to use a primer pump.
We thought we would use the OEM pump assembly to be the primer but the problem is wiring it up, and using diodes to do this wasn't going to be a job for everyone. So we used an off the shelf windshield washer pump from NAPA for about $14. Next was to remove the fender liner to get to the tank. The tank is a little tricky to remove, but once you figure out that there is a hidden connector (below) it comes out very easy.
After drilling an tapping a 1/8NPT fitting into the bottom of the tank we are ready to re-install it back into the car. Next up is the primer pump install. This is a pretty simple job. Drilling a couple of holes to mount it, and connect the tank hose up to it and we are done. Wiring the pump is simple. The PWi-1 has 2 wires ready to go, so all we have to do is extend the wires to the pump.
With the fender liner back in its time for the pump assembly and and wiring job. The pump assembly fits great in the window cowl area, and it is very easy to get a drill in there for the mounting holes. Besides the normal positive and negative connections, the only tricking connection is the fuel injector ground signal. This connection is important as this is how the PWI-1 picks up fuel injector duty cycle and determines how much water to inject.
All done!
The last step in the installation is is the nozzle placement. Normally putting the nozzle before the IC is better, when the IC is in a bad place, or is very small. So the Mini should have the nozzle before the IC. The only problem with putting it before the IC is that there is no good place that will distribute the water over the charged air in the tube equally. Because of the wide opening, if we put the nozzle in the center, much of the water will not affect the outer channels of the air, or the outer channels of the IC. Yes the water will be ingested in the engine, but much of the charge cooling effect will go to waste.
After the IC was a better choice as it iwas better centered over the boost tube, and would deliver water better to the complete charge. Since it was closer to the cylinders, it would also have better in-cylinder cooling. The only thing it may not effect is the charge temps. But we will have to see!
AFC NEO INSTALL
This is the one part of the whole install that is not for everyone. This requires cutting of ECU wires, and some soldering. Along with the install comes tuning, which needs to be done by a professional. This physical installation isn't very hard. Basically there are 5 wires to tap/cut into and then mounting of the head unit. From there is where it gets tricky. Tuning the ECU is not something for everyone. Besides having a dyno, and the tools to measure things like knock, AFR, and temps, the knowledge needed to adjust parameters is priceless. This is where you need to take your car to someone that knows what they are doing.
DYNO TIME
During the test we ran multiple runs for all changes. This ensures that the engine temps have stabilized, and proves the changes we were making. First off we did 7 base runs to get a good base number.
BASE RUN-shows base power as we might expect from these parts.
RUN WITH WATER ON- shows that the ECU is happy with WI on, and no tuning. Similar results might be had be race fuel.
RUN WITH SOME FUEL TUNING- got some smoothing to do, and there is definitely more power to be had.
RUN WITH FINAL FUEL TUNING, solid consistent, safe gains.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TEST
-Charge temps dropped significantly. During the base, non-tuning runs with no water injection, we saw charge temps (post IC) reach on average 48C. Couple of times we saw 52C. This is with the stock IC of course. With the water on, the charge temps were much more consistent, and much lower. 34C is the highest we saw. Even with back to back, quick runs, we saw the first run peak at 32C, and the second run done 15-20seconds later, we saw, the same peak of 32C!! The charge temps being lowered 20C is a huge gain. 20C cooler charge temps, means less detonation, more ignition timing can be added, and the engine will be running much safer overall. Anyone in hot climates should really look into this as a safety device.
-Overall knock energy stayed the same. Normally when you increase power, weather by boost or tuning, the engine will create more noise. Given that there was an increase in power, the noise stayed about the same. When the water turned on (before tuning) the engine noise actually dropped about 20%. Again showing how much safer the car will run with WI.
-More power and torque everywhere! That is pretty obvious from the graphs shown above. The most important area where power was gained was at lower RPM. The ECU is tuned very lean here, and with the instant boost.
-the ECU liked more timing if the fuel would allow it. The WI proves this, by the fact that turning it on with no tuning nets good power increases. Because of the gains we saw before tuning, the PWI-1 by itself it a great option for more safer power.
-With the AFC pulling timing (because we added fuel) at lower RPM, there is still tons of power to be had.
-Once again, this combo of parts makes more power than the JCW kit, and it is still far less money.
CONCLUSION-
213WHP and 190ft-lbs of torque is great power for a 15% pulley car. Maybe the best results out there. I would venture to say this is the highest HP 15% mini with no ECU flash (higher redline). Compared to an intake system, or exhaust or anything else, the gains are much better add to that durability, and we have a winner. Normally when you get to this point in “bolt-ons”, to get a gain like this is not possible. But this is only a small showing of what WI can do. Because we are using the Apex AFC to retune the fueling, we are not able to change timing independently. Because the AFC changes the MAP sensor output, it also effects timing. More fuel = less timing, less fuel = more timing. If we, I should say when we are able to tune fueling and timing separately, we can do far more!
I am sure some are seeing this test thinking "Great, WI works, i am just going to go buy one of those cheap systems." One thing to remember with other systems is they do not all deliver the proper fuel/water mixture. Most of them just tune on at a given boost, and deliver the same amount of water through the entire RPM /load band. This is bad as too much water will be delivered at low rpm/load, and not enough at high rpm/load. The progressive nature of our system delivers that 10-20% water vs. fuel everywhere. This is important to making the most out of the WI.
David’s car can gain more power by a couple of things, one being a larger exhaust, like our 2.5” system, a smaller 17% or19% pulley, larger Intercooler and one of the most important things is a properly tuned ECU. A simple redline change will net an easy extra 10-15WHP with the existing setup.
And yes, David is already bugging us about those next parts.
Through out this article I will be referring to Water/methonal injection as WI. With this entire test and install, we are showcasing this as something anyone can do. There is not a single part of this test that a person should feel scared to do except for the tuning which should be left up to a professional tuner.
Water injection has been used in many industries for a very long time. We are finally bringing it to the Mini world! Many have seen our PWI-1 system, and if you read the features from our site, you will be sold on it compared to other systems. This article is not about the PWI-1 system, but about using WI on the Mini cooper.
Why would you want to use WI on the Mini? The Intercooler is small, and lacks in the cooling department, smaller SC pulleys increase the charge temps, all these things increase the engine tendency to detonate or knock. So since running race fuel every day is not practical, the next best thing is water/methonal injection! The WI is only on when you are above a certain load point. Meaning only when the engine is about a certain RPM and or boost level. So it only injects it when you need it. This makes the consumption rate very low for normal driving conditions.
WI is all about cooling, which in turn controls detonation which allows the engine to make more power, and more power safer. Normally just injecting the mixture nets a loss in power. But with some cars, because of limitations of fuel and how the ECU is tuned, they can gain power. With the Mini some have seen gains with just injecting water/methanol, but with this test we will have to see!
Using the wonderful BimCOM software from RossTech, we collected some great convincing data!
We started with a customers 2005 Mini Cooper S (which BTW, Mr. Sterns Mini is one of the sweetest Minis around). This car has an ALTA 15% SC pulley, ALTA header, ALTA intake, stock IC, and Invidia 60mm exhaust.
As with all Mini Cooper S’s, or any boosted engine, more boost is the key to making power. Since boost isn’t going to change much unless we increase the SC speed, by a smaller pulley, or higher redline, the increases are not going to be huge, or are they??
INSTALLATION
There are a few good places to install the WI system in the Mini, but we chose a place that is both functional and shows off the system. With the install we choose to use the window washer tank (passenger side tank). Because the tank is much lower than the pump assembly, we will have to use a primer pump.
We thought we would use the OEM pump assembly to be the primer but the problem is wiring it up, and using diodes to do this wasn't going to be a job for everyone. So we used an off the shelf windshield washer pump from NAPA for about $14. Next was to remove the fender liner to get to the tank. The tank is a little tricky to remove, but once you figure out that there is a hidden connector (below) it comes out very easy.
After drilling an tapping a 1/8NPT fitting into the bottom of the tank we are ready to re-install it back into the car. Next up is the primer pump install. This is a pretty simple job. Drilling a couple of holes to mount it, and connect the tank hose up to it and we are done. Wiring the pump is simple. The PWi-1 has 2 wires ready to go, so all we have to do is extend the wires to the pump.
With the fender liner back in its time for the pump assembly and and wiring job. The pump assembly fits great in the window cowl area, and it is very easy to get a drill in there for the mounting holes. Besides the normal positive and negative connections, the only tricking connection is the fuel injector ground signal. This connection is important as this is how the PWI-1 picks up fuel injector duty cycle and determines how much water to inject.
All done!
The last step in the installation is is the nozzle placement. Normally putting the nozzle before the IC is better, when the IC is in a bad place, or is very small. So the Mini should have the nozzle before the IC. The only problem with putting it before the IC is that there is no good place that will distribute the water over the charged air in the tube equally. Because of the wide opening, if we put the nozzle in the center, much of the water will not affect the outer channels of the air, or the outer channels of the IC. Yes the water will be ingested in the engine, but much of the charge cooling effect will go to waste.
After the IC was a better choice as it iwas better centered over the boost tube, and would deliver water better to the complete charge. Since it was closer to the cylinders, it would also have better in-cylinder cooling. The only thing it may not effect is the charge temps. But we will have to see!
AFC NEO INSTALL
This is the one part of the whole install that is not for everyone. This requires cutting of ECU wires, and some soldering. Along with the install comes tuning, which needs to be done by a professional. This physical installation isn't very hard. Basically there are 5 wires to tap/cut into and then mounting of the head unit. From there is where it gets tricky. Tuning the ECU is not something for everyone. Besides having a dyno, and the tools to measure things like knock, AFR, and temps, the knowledge needed to adjust parameters is priceless. This is where you need to take your car to someone that knows what they are doing.
DYNO TIME
During the test we ran multiple runs for all changes. This ensures that the engine temps have stabilized, and proves the changes we were making. First off we did 7 base runs to get a good base number.
BASE RUN-shows base power as we might expect from these parts.
RUN WITH WATER ON- shows that the ECU is happy with WI on, and no tuning. Similar results might be had be race fuel.
RUN WITH SOME FUEL TUNING- got some smoothing to do, and there is definitely more power to be had.
RUN WITH FINAL FUEL TUNING, solid consistent, safe gains.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TEST
-Charge temps dropped significantly. During the base, non-tuning runs with no water injection, we saw charge temps (post IC) reach on average 48C. Couple of times we saw 52C. This is with the stock IC of course. With the water on, the charge temps were much more consistent, and much lower. 34C is the highest we saw. Even with back to back, quick runs, we saw the first run peak at 32C, and the second run done 15-20seconds later, we saw, the same peak of 32C!! The charge temps being lowered 20C is a huge gain. 20C cooler charge temps, means less detonation, more ignition timing can be added, and the engine will be running much safer overall. Anyone in hot climates should really look into this as a safety device.
-Overall knock energy stayed the same. Normally when you increase power, weather by boost or tuning, the engine will create more noise. Given that there was an increase in power, the noise stayed about the same. When the water turned on (before tuning) the engine noise actually dropped about 20%. Again showing how much safer the car will run with WI.
-More power and torque everywhere! That is pretty obvious from the graphs shown above. The most important area where power was gained was at lower RPM. The ECU is tuned very lean here, and with the instant boost.
-the ECU liked more timing if the fuel would allow it. The WI proves this, by the fact that turning it on with no tuning nets good power increases. Because of the gains we saw before tuning, the PWI-1 by itself it a great option for more safer power.
-With the AFC pulling timing (because we added fuel) at lower RPM, there is still tons of power to be had.
-Once again, this combo of parts makes more power than the JCW kit, and it is still far less money.
CONCLUSION-
213WHP and 190ft-lbs of torque is great power for a 15% pulley car. Maybe the best results out there. I would venture to say this is the highest HP 15% mini with no ECU flash (higher redline). Compared to an intake system, or exhaust or anything else, the gains are much better add to that durability, and we have a winner. Normally when you get to this point in “bolt-ons”, to get a gain like this is not possible. But this is only a small showing of what WI can do. Because we are using the Apex AFC to retune the fueling, we are not able to change timing independently. Because the AFC changes the MAP sensor output, it also effects timing. More fuel = less timing, less fuel = more timing. If we, I should say when we are able to tune fueling and timing separately, we can do far more!
I am sure some are seeing this test thinking "Great, WI works, i am just going to go buy one of those cheap systems." One thing to remember with other systems is they do not all deliver the proper fuel/water mixture. Most of them just tune on at a given boost, and deliver the same amount of water through the entire RPM /load band. This is bad as too much water will be delivered at low rpm/load, and not enough at high rpm/load. The progressive nature of our system delivers that 10-20% water vs. fuel everywhere. This is important to making the most out of the WI.
David’s car can gain more power by a couple of things, one being a larger exhaust, like our 2.5” system, a smaller 17% or19% pulley, larger Intercooler and one of the most important things is a properly tuned ECU. A simple redline change will net an easy extra 10-15WHP with the existing setup.
And yes, David is already bugging us about those next parts.
Last edited by ALTA2; Mar 16, 2007 at 12:18 PM.
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Also this can be found on our site in the charts section. PWI-1 Test
I am sure there are lots of questions about this, and i will do my best to answer then between now and AMVIV. But we are swamped with the R56 stuff.
I am sure there are lots of questions about this, and i will do my best to answer then between now and AMVIV. But we are swamped with the R56 stuff.
In the articule you discuss - that there is no good place to place the nozzle pre-Ic because one cannot get an even spray thru the IC and therefore opt to mount the nozzle post IC. While I understand your point - wouldn't it still be beneficial to mount the nozzle pre-IC and get "some" cooling charge as opposed to none via post IC installation?
PS - thanks for the write up - very informative.
PS - thanks for the write up - very informative.
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From: Oregon
Oops just replied to the other thread! Your welcome for the write up! Keep an eye out for more very soon.
I wrote:
You sure could. But how much benifit is there, that is the question. For that matter, you can put 3 of them in the system. One pre SC, PreIC and Post IC.
The problem is you start to deliver too much water. Even with our system with a .5mm nozzle it flowed a bit much (close to 20% of the fuel flow) this is also with our gain turned down. So if you add any nozzles to this, then you are adding lots of water and a loss in power will result.
We have .3MM nozzles, which x2 would be ok. But becaues they are so small, they are more prone to blockage. These are super fine misting
But we saw a 20C change in Air temp and being that the nozzle is after the IC, i would say there is not much more cooling to be had going before it. But that is something to test in the future.
But as much as many say to put the nozzle before the IC on cars with bad IC's, i have seen best results with nozzles after them. On most cars, they seem do do better with in cylinder cooling.
One more thing is for those crazy guys that run 100% meth, may have issues with the meth eating up the fins in the IC.
Sorry, so yes, we could have but we didn't because of flow reasons.
I wrote:
You sure could. But how much benifit is there, that is the question. For that matter, you can put 3 of them in the system. One pre SC, PreIC and Post IC.
The problem is you start to deliver too much water. Even with our system with a .5mm nozzle it flowed a bit much (close to 20% of the fuel flow) this is also with our gain turned down. So if you add any nozzles to this, then you are adding lots of water and a loss in power will result.
We have .3MM nozzles, which x2 would be ok. But becaues they are so small, they are more prone to blockage. These are super fine misting
But we saw a 20C change in Air temp and being that the nozzle is after the IC, i would say there is not much more cooling to be had going before it. But that is something to test in the future.
But as much as many say to put the nozzle before the IC on cars with bad IC's, i have seen best results with nozzles after them. On most cars, they seem do do better with in cylinder cooling.
One more thing is for those crazy guys that run 100% meth, may have issues with the meth eating up the fins in the IC.
Sorry, so yes, we could have but we didn't because of flow reasons.
Can you post the pic of the nozzle placement?
That is pretty good power above the baseline run. Thanks for posting.
That is pretty good power above the baseline run. Thanks for posting.
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Very nice right up. It is really nice to see a vendor step up and show how his product works and the gains it produces.
The gains are just about what I expected to see. I'm sure glad I sprung for the adjustable cam gear.
How long will that tank last befor you run out?
Longboard
The gains are just about what I expected to see. I'm sure glad I sprung for the adjustable cam gear.
How long will that tank last befor you run out?
Longboard
We are running 50/50 distilled water to methanol. The more I drive the car, the happier I am. The system is completely automatic. I have a small display next to the steering column that shows me what is happening. As for consumption, I check the tank every so often and top it off when necessary. Since the system only injects when needed, it seems to last quite a while. If you were using your Mini on the track (where demand on the system is higher), you would probably want to look into a larger resevoir.
Congrats on the new mod. I'm sure your loving the new TQ.
Your numbers before were very close to mine before I added a head. I have a W/I kit sitting on my work bench just waiting for my car to get back.
Have fun.
Longboard
Your numbers before were very close to mine before I added a head. I have a W/I kit sitting on my work bench just waiting for my car to get back.
Have fun.
Longboard
We are running 50/50 distilled water to methanol. The more I drive the car, the happier I am. The system is completely automatic. I have a small display next to the steering column that shows me what is happening. As for consumption, I check the tank every so often and top it off when necessary. Since the system only injects when needed, it seems to last quite a while. If you were using your Mini on the track (where demand on the system is higher), you would probably want to look into a larger resevoir.
Stuck in Reverse
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: 127.0.0.1
So, how were you able to keep the stock clutch from slipping when it went over 180ft/lbs of torque? A number of other runs I've seen with a dynapack had an anomaly in the torque band caused by the clutch slipping right around 180ft/lbs.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,926
Likes: 40
From: Greensboro, NC
I wonder too...I had to switch to Spec 2 clutch when I installed nitrous with a relatively conservative jet...the OEM clutch was slipping badly but when it was removed, it had normal wear and was in good shape...just couldn't cope with the increased torque...
[quote=CmdrVimes;1424850]So, how were you able to keep the stock clutch from slipping when it went over 180ft/lbs of torque? A number of other runs I've seen with a dynapack had an anomaly in the torque band caused by the clutch slipping right around 180ft/lbs.[/quote
I had been planning to have a Quaife installed anyway, and will upgrade my clutch at the same time. I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I'm sure the clutch won't last with the increased torque.
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Partsman,
The nozzle picture was corrupted (who knows) and David is taking another one for me. So we will get it up ASAP.
Longboardmini,
We are not here to blow smoke, or sell theroies to people. If we make something that doesn't work, we don't sell it.
CmdrVimes, and MSFITOY,
Not sure, but it held. I don't think David does tons of drop clutch launches so maybe this clutch has a little more material on it, and holds a little more torque. But for 100% it didnt slip the whole day.
50/50 mixture is the best to use for 90% of the people out there. 100% works very well, but the Meth becomes more fuel and even more normal fuel has to be removed. So the engine will heavily relay on the WI working. But there is more power to be had by pure meth. If David gets crazy, maybe we will do a retune!
The nozzle picture was corrupted (who knows) and David is taking another one for me. So we will get it up ASAP.
Longboardmini,
We are not here to blow smoke, or sell theroies to people. If we make something that doesn't work, we don't sell it.
CmdrVimes, and MSFITOY,
Not sure, but it held. I don't think David does tons of drop clutch launches so maybe this clutch has a little more material on it, and holds a little more torque. But for 100% it didnt slip the whole day.
50/50 mixture is the best to use for 90% of the people out there. 100% works very well, but the Meth becomes more fuel and even more normal fuel has to be removed. So the engine will heavily relay on the WI working. But there is more power to be had by pure meth. If David gets crazy, maybe we will do a retune!
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 643
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From: Tampa, FL
ALTA2 - something you forgot to point out was now that you are tuned for WI - you better hope it doesn't fail and you must keep an eye on the level....
This becomes EXTREMELY important if you tune for 50/50 meth/water or 100% meth. The car will be very lean if not....and pistons don't like that too much.
Otherwise thanks for posting the writeup, I wish more people knew about WI!
This becomes EXTREMELY important if you tune for 50/50 meth/water or 100% meth. The car will be very lean if not....and pistons don't like that too much.
Otherwise thanks for posting the writeup, I wish more people knew about WI!
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Shooler,
I will be ready after AMVIV!
TampaMCS,
You are 100% correct. With our system it can detect a fault like no water and low flow. When the fault occurs, a bright LED on the dash display lights up. Then also a relay is setup so you can do things like make lights turn on, or have it cut fuel (not the best idea, but can be done), switch maps (if there is that ability) or whatever you want. With the Mini the only real thing you can do is watch the LED and setup the fault to turn on the light.
For the R56 though, we have it setup to cut the boost control solenoid. So with this car, the fault knocks the boost down to ZERO! We have a way for it to blow off boost from the SC cars, but it is not cheap. But for about $300 we could make something.
I will be ready after AMVIV!
TampaMCS,
You are 100% correct. With our system it can detect a fault like no water and low flow. When the fault occurs, a bright LED on the dash display lights up. Then also a relay is setup so you can do things like make lights turn on, or have it cut fuel (not the best idea, but can be done), switch maps (if there is that ability) or whatever you want. With the Mini the only real thing you can do is watch the LED and setup the fault to turn on the light.
For the R56 though, we have it setup to cut the boost control solenoid. So with this car, the fault knocks the boost down to ZERO! We have a way for it to blow off boost from the SC cars, but it is not cheap. But for about $300 we could make something.
what I don't get - Its not clear how/when your controller sprays to me.
I understand "the others" spay at a set boost level - whne does your come on ? Could you detail this a bit more .....
I understand "the others" spay at a set boost level - whne does your come on ? Could you detail this a bit more .....
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Bahamabart,
Our system taps into the negative side of the fuel injector. From this, the "brain" looks at injector on time, and determines the injectors duty cycle. The pump (when turned on) follows injector duty cycle. So less fuel being delivered, means less water, and more fuel more water. This way you get a consistant percentage of water/fuel throught the load/RPM band.
Now since the system looks at the injector duty cycle, you can tell it when to turn on via duty cycle. Since injector duty cycle equals some load at some RPM, it will come on every time when you need it.
Does that make sense? This beauty is no pressure sensor to fail, or come unadjusted, or hose connection to pop off.
Our system taps into the negative side of the fuel injector. From this, the "brain" looks at injector on time, and determines the injectors duty cycle. The pump (when turned on) follows injector duty cycle. So less fuel being delivered, means less water, and more fuel more water. This way you get a consistant percentage of water/fuel throught the load/RPM band.
Now since the system looks at the injector duty cycle, you can tell it when to turn on via duty cycle. Since injector duty cycle equals some load at some RPM, it will come on every time when you need it.
Does that make sense? This beauty is no pressure sensor to fail, or come unadjusted, or hose connection to pop off.
Somewhat
. Having a very basic on boost / off boost mentality 
- so the decision to spray is not tied to being on or off boost SOoooo it can spray when not under any boost ?
. Having a very basic on boost / off boost mentality - so the decision to spray is not tied to being on or off boost SOoooo it can spray when not under any boost ?
Great MOD and topic. Could you share a pic of the display and tell us the data it reflects.
Also what did the "tune" run you and what brand ?