Drivetrain Hydra EMS
OK i looked up the site and just read this and im getting GIDDY....
[FONT=Verdana]Q. How do I use the autotune feature?[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]A. Firstly, you must have a functioning NTK L2H2 UEGO O2 sensor fitted. Secondly, you must have a matching autotune password key for your Nemesis. Third, select settings->closed loop and enable closed loop, enable autotune and set wide band target table as the source of either closed loop module. Fourthly, for safety reasons the autotune works only when a PC is connected to the ecu (and is online with the ecu in the maps or data-logging window) and the DRQ pin is connected.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Now simply drive your car steadily at many different engine speeds and loads. The Nemesis is running in wideband closed loop mode, meaning that the Nemesis will alter the fuel delivery so that the measured AFR (from the L2H2) is close or equal to the AFR target table value.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]At this point, the fuel map is not necessarily correct; the AFR has simply been adjusted to the target value by the closed loop system. The Nemesis will look at 'how hard' the closed loop system is working to reach the target AFR and will make small changes to the fuel map in bring the fuel map closer to the desired fuel map. You can monitor the progress of the autotune by observing the stt (short term trim) value in the feedback panel. When this value is positive, the closed loop system is adding fuel on top of the base map value in order to reach the target AFR. When it is negative, the closed loop system is subtracting fuel. Only when the stt at a given load point is within the range +-2% can that load point be considered completely auto tuned.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]To capture the changes to the fuel map, you must upload at the end of the autotune session. Do not turn the key off until you have done this or you will lose the altered map. You may need to smoothen out any bumps in the fuel curves; the autotune will miss any load points that were not visited during the autotune session. Save this file and download.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]We recommend you remove the L1H1 at this time, and return the closed loop sensor source/s to the appropriate narrow band sensor.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Q. How do I use the autotune feature?[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]A. Firstly, you must have a functioning NTK L2H2 UEGO O2 sensor fitted. Secondly, you must have a matching autotune password key for your Nemesis. Third, select settings->closed loop and enable closed loop, enable autotune and set wide band target table as the source of either closed loop module. Fourthly, for safety reasons the autotune works only when a PC is connected to the ecu (and is online with the ecu in the maps or data-logging window) and the DRQ pin is connected.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Now simply drive your car steadily at many different engine speeds and loads. The Nemesis is running in wideband closed loop mode, meaning that the Nemesis will alter the fuel delivery so that the measured AFR (from the L2H2) is close or equal to the AFR target table value.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]At this point, the fuel map is not necessarily correct; the AFR has simply been adjusted to the target value by the closed loop system. The Nemesis will look at 'how hard' the closed loop system is working to reach the target AFR and will make small changes to the fuel map in bring the fuel map closer to the desired fuel map. You can monitor the progress of the autotune by observing the stt (short term trim) value in the feedback panel. When this value is positive, the closed loop system is adding fuel on top of the base map value in order to reach the target AFR. When it is negative, the closed loop system is subtracting fuel. Only when the stt at a given load point is within the range +-2% can that load point be considered completely auto tuned.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]To capture the changes to the fuel map, you must upload at the end of the autotune session. Do not turn the key off until you have done this or you will lose the altered map. You may need to smoothen out any bumps in the fuel curves; the autotune will miss any load points that were not visited during the autotune session. Save this file and download.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]We recommend you remove the L1H1 at this time, and return the closed loop sensor source/s to the appropriate narrow band sensor.[/FONT]
yes, they call it "parrallel stand alone" which basically mean it plugs in line to your factory ecu, thus keeping all the std control features. And yes, it is a true standalone, so you can modify any parameter..... sweet!! (I wonder then if it can modify traction control functions..... OH MY GOD!!! THE POSSIBILITIES!!!!)
Shooler,
Thanks for the post! So yes the Hydra has FINALLY become more than a myth! Its running, and running very well! The only issue is CEL's. There is a lot of them, but it runs great! No Traction control, but it sucked anyway! Lots of playing to do, but i think we can ship systems in a couple of weeks as long as things go as planned.
So while i have your attention, a few options we are going to offer or not offer depending on customers thoughts.
1. The full deal, unlocked and fully tunable, and configurable. $1999
2. Half deal, most everything locked down, but user can tune plus or minus %'s from our supplied map, but can't see what the numbers are. This will be around $1500. But upgradable to the full deal.
3.Wide band 02 sensor option, allows for Auto fuel tuning, and the ability to log the wide band sensor with all the other parameters! This will be $399
We will be offering a maps specific to 15% pulley 92 octane cars at first. To go with this map, we will have integrated our Water injection tune. A simple wire, to attach to our failsafe wires, and you have even more safer power! From there we will do a 19% tune and build maps as people start to ask for them.
Impressions
So with being able to control every aspect of the engine is key to making big power with these cars. With the AFC stuff we did a while ago, we found big power to be had down low. But of course as you remove fuel, or add fuel it messes with the timing. NOT WITH HYDRA! Being able to independently tuning fuel and timing is HUGE!
With this infinate amount of control, i think everyone will see what can really be done with ECU tuning. No more of this 3-5WHP, dare i say 20WHP.........
In the future releases of the Hydra, one will be able to enable traction control, and control the amount of slip you have. While being a few months away, current and future owners will be able to upgrade to get this benifit.
No more relying on other peoples tunes, and maps, and sending ECU's back and forth, and all that. Now you can get an ECU that YOU or a qualified tuner and mess with.
$1999, sounds like a lot, but it is still much less money than an JCW package. In fact, be on the look out for a APW package! Say $3500 for a parts package that makes 60WHP or more??? Just throwing ideas out there.
Some might be thinking, why would i want to pay someone to tune this?? Well you can always get a little more power from your car with a custom tune, not to mention if you have other custom parts, you might want something special. Also there is an abundence of 2WD dynos around the country, and good tuners!
Thanks for the post! So yes the Hydra has FINALLY become more than a myth! Its running, and running very well! The only issue is CEL's. There is a lot of them, but it runs great! No Traction control, but it sucked anyway! Lots of playing to do, but i think we can ship systems in a couple of weeks as long as things go as planned.
So while i have your attention, a few options we are going to offer or not offer depending on customers thoughts.
1. The full deal, unlocked and fully tunable, and configurable. $1999
2. Half deal, most everything locked down, but user can tune plus or minus %'s from our supplied map, but can't see what the numbers are. This will be around $1500. But upgradable to the full deal.
3.Wide band 02 sensor option, allows for Auto fuel tuning, and the ability to log the wide band sensor with all the other parameters! This will be $399
We will be offering a maps specific to 15% pulley 92 octane cars at first. To go with this map, we will have integrated our Water injection tune. A simple wire, to attach to our failsafe wires, and you have even more safer power! From there we will do a 19% tune and build maps as people start to ask for them.
Impressions
So with being able to control every aspect of the engine is key to making big power with these cars. With the AFC stuff we did a while ago, we found big power to be had down low. But of course as you remove fuel, or add fuel it messes with the timing. NOT WITH HYDRA! Being able to independently tuning fuel and timing is HUGE!
With this infinate amount of control, i think everyone will see what can really be done with ECU tuning. No more of this 3-5WHP, dare i say 20WHP.........
In the future releases of the Hydra, one will be able to enable traction control, and control the amount of slip you have. While being a few months away, current and future owners will be able to upgrade to get this benifit.
No more relying on other peoples tunes, and maps, and sending ECU's back and forth, and all that. Now you can get an ECU that YOU or a qualified tuner and mess with.
$1999, sounds like a lot, but it is still much less money than an JCW package. In fact, be on the look out for a APW package! Say $3500 for a parts package that makes 60WHP or more??? Just throwing ideas out there.
Some might be thinking, why would i want to pay someone to tune this?? Well you can always get a little more power from your car with a custom tune, not to mention if you have other custom parts, you might want something special. Also there is an abundence of 2WD dynos around the country, and good tuners!
You can DL the Nemisis software from their site, and at least understand what you can mess with.
Silkworm,
You asked how easy? Its very easy to figure out, and anyone familiar with other software packages will agree.
Silkworm,
You asked how easy? Its very easy to figure out, and anyone familiar with other software packages will agree.
$2398 with wideband is defintely the most expensive Hydra to date. Ouch! That said, full control of boost [using EBC's on turbos], wideband AFR targeting with auto-tune, knock control, and the host of control maps, this will prove to be the most powerful tool ever for the R53. The Hydra makes canned flashes and piggybacks lame. Yes you'll lose your CEL usefulness and your cruise control, but gain all the control and datalogging your stock ECU-based setup never had. This is for serious pistonheads, and will give serious results. Everyone with twincharged and single-turbo R53's needs to drop everything and buy one today, I'm serious.
Oh ya, Spillman, you get the first one if you want it! Like i promised about a year ago! I know, you probably have something by now, but had to offer!
Ryephile,
Yes its expensive, but its right there with the 350Z, Elise and others that still need the stock ECU to drive gauges and things.
Yes, no cruise either forgot to mention that, but who uses cruise
The twincharge and turbo guys are who we made this for a long time ago, and i agree, they are our market! We do not have maps for them, but we will be developing them ASAP! Also if there are some guys that want this for their turbo/TC kits, i would be more than happy to give personal tuning advice and help. Anyway i would love to get these in peoples hands in a few weeks!
Ryephile,
Yes its expensive, but its right there with the 350Z, Elise and others that still need the stock ECU to drive gauges and things.
Yes, no cruise either forgot to mention that, but who uses cruise

The twincharge and turbo guys are who we made this for a long time ago, and i agree, they are our market! We do not have maps for them, but we will be developing them ASAP! Also if there are some guys that want this for their turbo/TC kits, i would be more than happy to give personal tuning advice and help. Anyway i would love to get these in peoples hands in a few weeks!
Jeff.....I have been waiting.....
What are the "P" codes that are thrown? I would like to know what they are, as if they are emission related, the car will not pass emissions.
What are the "P" codes that are thrown? I would like to know what they are, as if they are emission related, the car will not pass emissions.
Last edited by Trickle X; Jun 5, 2007 at 05:59 PM.
[quote=ALTA2;1559781]
Yes, no cruise either forgot to mention that, but who uses cruise
quote]
I need cruise, only one more speeding in the next 2 years and I loose my driving license
Note to self; nitrous bottle must be empty when out on the public highway
Yes, no cruise either forgot to mention that, but who uses cruise

quote]
I need cruise, only one more speeding in the next 2 years and I loose my driving license
Note to self; nitrous bottle must be empty when out on the public highway
Just take apart the tachometer and remove the LED for the check-engine-light. Voila! No more faux CEL from the stock ECU that's no longer the ECU, just a CAN-bus signal converter.
Haha....already did that..........but when a tech inspector turns the ignition on and doesnt see the ses lite lite, they plug in.....I found this out....but since I was under 5k I was exempt anyways....
Mods vs Resale
This is great news. One of the problems that we've been having in promoting some sort of race series for the Mini, like Spec Miata, is that the resale value of the Mini is too high for most people to consider converting it to a race car. Everyone interested has been saying that once used Minis are cheap, like Miatas, there will be enough people interested and willing to buy in if the cars are under $10K.
This is great news. One of the problems that we've been having in promoting some sort of race series for the Mini, like Spec Miata, is that the resale value of the Mini is too high for most people to consider converting it to a race car. Everyone interested has been saying that once used Minis are cheap, like Miatas, there will be enough people interested and willing to buy in if the cars are under $10K. 
FYI, most people usually take all the big mods out instead of selling as is. The only thing that'll drive the price of our cars down under $10k is a couple more years and high mileage. Not to mention, having your ECU flash installed would lower the value JUST as much as having the Hydra installed...
I really don't find it necessary or fitting for you to be in this thread trying (and the key word here is trying) to knock a product.
If that were the case, what does that have ANYTHING to do with in this thread about Alta's Hydra... lolol think about it...
It's too damn early to think. Besides, if I did that, I'd hardly have anything to say.
[quote=Paul Webster;1559887]
I'll venture to say it'll be every P code possible. At least, that's the way I'd want it to be.
Just take apart the tachometer and remove the LED for the check-engine-light. Voila! No more faux CEL from the stock ECU that's no longer the ECU, just a CAN-bus signal converter.
Just take apart the tachometer and remove the LED for the check-engine-light. Voila! No more faux CEL from the stock ECU that's no longer the ECU, just a CAN-bus signal converter.BTW, with the way the Hydra is hooked up, you get sweet gas milage! I got 48MPG the last few days. That is whith alot of foot to the floor driving. The instant gas milage is 99MPG. Now we're talkin!
I'm not quite following what your trying to get at here. Are you saying that adding a Hydra will lower the value of the car or are you just talking shyt out of your a-ss?
FYI, most people usually take all the big mods out instead of selling as is. The only thing that'll drive the price of our cars down under $10k is a couple more years and high mileage. Not to mention, having your ECU flash installed would lower the value JUST as much as having the Hydra installed...
I really don't find it necessary or fitting for you to be in this thread trying (and the key word here is trying) to knock a product.
FYI, most people usually take all the big mods out instead of selling as is. The only thing that'll drive the price of our cars down under $10k is a couple more years and high mileage. Not to mention, having your ECU flash installed would lower the value JUST as much as having the Hydra installed...
I really don't find it necessary or fitting for you to be in this thread trying (and the key word here is trying) to knock a product.
You obviously misunderstood LDG's extremely easy to understand post. I saw no bashing or knocking of products or vendors.
I also don't see how you are able to police who should be posting where.
It's like the little boy who cried wolf. Do something long enough and people start to think thats all you do.
So what was he trying to say?
Longboard
That it's good news to hear about the advancement of the Hydra, and one of the problems he has had with promoting a race series with the MINI is that the resale value of the MINI is still too high for people just to buy them and gut it for a race car. Apparently, the Miata is a little more affordable than the MINI right now to make a race car(Spec Miata). He has interested people that will build race MINIs once the price of used ones comes down.
The tunability of the Hydra will make it easier to construct a race only MINI.
it looks like a damn good option when you compare it to a 10k motec solution. Typicially you have to pay a crapload to un-idiotproof your car and gain the ability to blow it up yourself.
I'll be watching as this develops for sure. When my payments are done this thing goes track car only and i get a reliable car on a lease that is fast enough to not need mods. :P
I'll be watching as this develops for sure. When my payments are done this thing goes track car only and i get a reliable car on a lease that is fast enough to not need mods. :P
What I got from LDG's post is...
Since the title of Mods vs Resale is used for the post and having read many other posts where LDG has said that are many poorly engineered mods on the market that this is yet another one and it will help bring the resale value down.
It's like great...more of ya'll will screw up your Mini's with this giving us a larger poll of sub $10k Mini's. Once a large enough pool is created we can do a Mini based spec series.
Since the title of Mods vs Resale is used for the post and having read many other posts where LDG has said that are many poorly engineered mods on the market that this is yet another one and it will help bring the resale value down.
It's like great...more of ya'll will screw up your Mini's with this giving us a larger poll of sub $10k Mini's. Once a large enough pool is created we can do a Mini based spec series.
What I got from LDG's post is...
Since the title of Mods vs Resale is used for the post and having read many other posts where LDG has said that are many poorly engineered mods on the market that this is yet another one and it will help bring the resale value down.
It's like great...more of ya'll will screw up your Mini's with this giving us a larger poll of sub $10k Mini's. Once a large enough pool is created we can do a Mini based spec series.
Since the title of Mods vs Resale is used for the post and having read many other posts where LDG has said that are many poorly engineered mods on the market that this is yet another one and it will help bring the resale value down.
It's like great...more of ya'll will screw up your Mini's with this giving us a larger poll of sub $10k Mini's. Once a large enough pool is created we can do a Mini based spec series.


