Ok, see if any of you performance mod junkies have an idea what might be happening here.

Since installing the pulley on my 2002 MCS I've had a bad start problem. Even if I turn the ignition to accessory 2 and let the fuel pump prime, when I start the car it bogs like there's no fuel and sputters out. When I restart it again I have to step on the gas a bit to get it going. Then after it's started, for about the first minute if I step on the gas it hesitates a bit, dropping revs slightly before reving up. Very concerning. I've got a call in to my local dealer, but with the intake and pulley, I'm sure they'll say it's due to that. And I can't necessarily rule it out myself as the problem started directly after the pulley install. Is there a startup fuel line I could have damaged lifting the engine or something?

I've even taken it in and had version 3.3 of the software installed last week, no change at all.

YIKES!!! What's going on?!?

R

 

Are you still under warranty with your mods, because I have mixed replies, and want to do those mods, only if my MCS will stay under warranty. I have called my dealer about the 3.3 software, and they say, that they can't do the software on an MCS. Any ideas?

 

Your dealer is either smoking crack or confused. I and my friend both have MCS and were recently both upgraded to 3.3.

As for warranty, uhm ya...the pulley pretty much kills the engine part of that.

R

 

Here are a few places I would start first. I would check and see if the S/C belt is slipping. If you have a pressure guage this is an easy one but if not we use software @ the shop that reads the pressure from the diagnostic port. Are you using the stock belt or the NAPA smaller replacement belt? Check for intake boot and air filter for air leaks or cracks in the boot. Finally look @ the DBW connection @ the base of your Throttle Body, it could be lose or damaged in the pulley install. I would try the dealer and see if your car is throwing any codes, just because you are not seeing any lights does not mean that it is not recording some faults. Feel free to give us a call @ the shop if you have any other questions. Good Luck.

 

My car does the same thing and I dont have a pulley or an intake.

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Cheese

 

I'm with Chris,
Check all your hose connections. With higher boost, hoses are more likely to slip. Also, don't you have a boost gauge? If you do it will likely be reading low if a hose has a small leak. Finally, if everything looks good you may have a bad MAP sensor which should be fixed under warranty. I doubt that fuel starvation is the cause of this problem.

PerfPow

 

Cheese,
You need to go straight to the dealer. Then tell us - and Davbret - what you find.
Hurry!

PerfPow

 

Just spoke to dealer and they've agreed to have head tech speak to me today about it and see if I can recreate. Then they want me to leave the car overnight so that they may try to test it.

Chris, thanks for the list! I'll relay that to the head tech for his thoughts.

The slipping belt crossed my mind as well. Since you can can driving around and punch the accelerator and speed off, but drop the clutch at a light and the tires spin.....same thing here perhaps....at startup the pulley is at a standstill so the belt initially slips, but works fine once it's spinning. Hmmmm....guess I'll have someone watch the pulley at startup to see if it's pausing or something. But then, why would it work the second, but not the first time? And why does touching the gas pedal get it to work if the problem is belt related.

Geeze, I can talk myself out or into about any of those possibilities!

R

 

Perf,
If only it were that easy.

Link

My dealer is the epitome of evil!

Another thing I noticed is that my car idles over 1000 RPMS for the few minutes after startup. Doesnt seem to be related to the temp gauge so I dont know how much of a warmup thing it is. It started doing this about a month ago.



--
Cheese

 

>>Another thing I noticed is that my car idles over 1000 RPMS for the few minutes after startup. Doesnt seem to be related to the temp gauge so I dont know how much of a warmup thing it is. It started doing this about a month ago.
>>
>>
>>--
>>Cheese
>>

By car idles over at around 1100-1200rpms when I initially start it up in the morning (or anytime the engine has been sitting enough to cool down). It idles at normal rpm's if i start moving in gear for over 10 seconds. When I turn on my car, I drive immediately, I don't allow my engine to warm up by idleing (that's just wrong and inefficient) so that few-minutes time sounds very different than my car, unless you let it sit at idle.

 

it seems almost for sure that something was pinched or worked loose during the install, probably from jacking the engine around. the usual suspects are manifold leaks at hoses or sensors or their wires. There are too many pulley installs to think it is the pulley per se. If the belt were slipping, the problem would probably not show up upon starting, but after the engine was spinning.

 

Hi Ryan, While you are @ it I would have them check the belt tensioner, I seem to remember that when you did your install that you sad in your post that you were able to compress it by hand. I use the factory tool when I do this job and the arm on the tool is pretty long. I am not sure that I could do it by hand. This failing could lead to slip. Just an idea. Keep us up to date when you get some info.

 

Time to revive a dead thread! Last night some friends and I were going to get some sushi, went to a joint in the city long enough for them to tell us the wait time. We decided we didn't want to wait that long. Got back to the car and it won't start!!!! Added gas to make sure it wasn't a broken gauge, still no start. The only thing I know is the longer it sits between atempts to start it the better it turns over before it dies.. any suggestions?

 

I'd start a new thread with all the appropriate info, this is a 10 year old thread