Drivetrain Installing- Bypass Valve, OCC & VGS????
Installing- Bypass Valve, OCC & VGS????
I am planning on installing the detroit tuned by pass valve, Alta occ and doing the VGS mod very soon.
Since all of the these mods kinda go together.... Is there anything I need to know before installing these mods??
Like, is there any certain order that I would install them in?
It seems that you would put on the bypass valve, then do the occ, then change the lines around for the VGS.
Does this sound right?
I am excited about these mods on my 03' MCS JCW.
At the same time I am also going to install my new Alta V 2.0 air diverter with sprayer. What type of performance gains should I expect from these 4 mods??
I want to do them all at once so the improvment is more noticable.
Thanks for the advice in advance.
Jasun
Since all of the these mods kinda go together.... Is there anything I need to know before installing these mods??
Like, is there any certain order that I would install them in?
It seems that you would put on the bypass valve, then do the occ, then change the lines around for the VGS.
Does this sound right?
I am excited about these mods on my 03' MCS JCW.
At the same time I am also going to install my new Alta V 2.0 air diverter with sprayer. What type of performance gains should I expect from these 4 mods??
I want to do them all at once so the improvment is more noticable.
Thanks for the advice in advance.
Jasun
I have read some of the same.... However I have also read that they will complement each other, giving even more sustained boost. in a thread I read a few days ago by Dr. O it seemed to read as if they work in pretty good harmony with each other. I do remember him saying that he took off both the DT bypass valve off and the VGS for testing purposes... which did not last long because he liked the set up with them both on so well.
Most of the question in this post pertains to the installation of these mods..
I have pretty much made up my mind, and I am going to do all 4, since I already have the parts (thanks Santa).
I am just wondering if there are any tricks to the installaton or anything I need to know upfront. Like the order of installation. Also, the previous question of the expected performance gains?
Thanks for your heads up 00zero.... But I'm going for it!
JASUN
Most of the question in this post pertains to the installation of these mods..
I have pretty much made up my mind, and I am going to do all 4, since I already have the parts (thanks Santa).
I am just wondering if there are any tricks to the installaton or anything I need to know upfront. Like the order of installation. Also, the previous question of the expected performance gains?
Thanks for your heads up 00zero.... But I'm going for it!
JASUN
Just a thought but you may want to think about doing the Bypass valve and the VGS seperately so you can see what each mod gives you. That way if you have any side effects that you don't like you will know where to look. When you do all at the same time, and if there are problems, your chasing rainbows as to where the problem lies.
Steve
Steve
I have read some of the same.... However I have also read that they will complement each other, giving even more sustained boost. in a thread I read a few days ago by Dr. O it seemed to read as if they work in pretty good harmony with each other. I do remember him saying that he took off both the DT bypass valve off and the VGS for testing purposes... which did not last long because he liked the set up with them both on so well.
Most of the question in this post pertains to the installation of these mods..
I have pretty much made up my mind, and I am going to do all 4, since I already have the parts (thanks Santa).
I am just wondering if there are any tricks to the installaton or anything I need to know upfront. Like the order of installation. Also, the previous question of the expected performance gains?
Thanks for your heads up 00zero.... But I'm going for it!
JASUN
Most of the question in this post pertains to the installation of these mods..
I have pretty much made up my mind, and I am going to do all 4, since I already have the parts (thanks Santa).
I am just wondering if there are any tricks to the installaton or anything I need to know upfront. Like the order of installation. Also, the previous question of the expected performance gains?
Thanks for your heads up 00zero.... But I'm going for it!
JASUN
Just be carefull on the Bypass Install. Below is a post from Koopah. I ended up getting mine installed at Helix since I couldn't afford to break the plastic tab and have my car out of commision while I got it fixed.
Quote "
"Koopah
vbmenu_register("postmenu_1096422", true);
5th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Northeast USA
Posts: 634
Just a caveat about the BPV mod...
Having modest mechanical skills and a full array of tools, I found the BPV replacement to be a fairly involved process. This would be especially true if you are new to removing/replacing items deep inside your MINI's engine bay. You may wish to opt for a mechanic familiar with the MINI to perform the install.
Of particular note is the plastic intake pipe that runs from the throttle body area to the SC intake port. It is also attached to the bottom of the BPV and needs to be wriggled free from the valve for replacement.
Unfortunately, when the intake pipe is removed from the TB, the only thing securing it to the intake port on the SC is a little plastic tab in a very out of the way place. This can easily break if you move the intake pipe too much, and cause an air leak in the intake system. It is difficut to replace if broken, as the front bumper and radiator assembly must be removed.
So...care must be exercised!
If you don't know your way around the engine bay and still want to attempt the BPV replacement yourself, plan a lot of time for this...like all afternoon. Do no drink beer when doing this mod. Hide all hammers and other means of blunt force "percussive tuning". Take a lot of breaks. Study the instructions carefully, and do not run with scissors.
Good Luck,
Theo"
End Quote
Quote "
"Koopah
5th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Northeast USA
Posts: 634
Just a caveat about the BPV mod...
Having modest mechanical skills and a full array of tools, I found the BPV replacement to be a fairly involved process. This would be especially true if you are new to removing/replacing items deep inside your MINI's engine bay. You may wish to opt for a mechanic familiar with the MINI to perform the install.
Of particular note is the plastic intake pipe that runs from the throttle body area to the SC intake port. It is also attached to the bottom of the BPV and needs to be wriggled free from the valve for replacement.
Unfortunately, when the intake pipe is removed from the TB, the only thing securing it to the intake port on the SC is a little plastic tab in a very out of the way place. This can easily break if you move the intake pipe too much, and cause an air leak in the intake system. It is difficut to replace if broken, as the front bumper and radiator assembly must be removed.
So...care must be exercised!
If you don't know your way around the engine bay and still want to attempt the BPV replacement yourself, plan a lot of time for this...like all afternoon. Do no drink beer when doing this mod. Hide all hammers and other means of blunt force "percussive tuning". Take a lot of breaks. Study the instructions carefully, and do not run with scissors.
Good Luck,
Theo"
End Quote
Thanks for the feedback!
I remember reading this post from koopah about the installtion of the DT bypass valve. Our friend MarioKart has offered to help me with the mods. We enjoy working on the MINIs at his friends garage. The good news is Mario has already done the bypass valve mod once on his car and said is was not that bad. I am sure his second time around will be easier.
I will post my butt dyno results after installation.
Should be cool.
Thanks, Jasun
I remember reading this post from koopah about the installtion of the DT bypass valve. Our friend MarioKart has offered to help me with the mods. We enjoy working on the MINIs at his friends garage. The good news is Mario has already done the bypass valve mod once on his car and said is was not that bad. I am sure his second time around will be easier.
I will post my butt dyno results after installation.
Should be cool.
Thanks, Jasun
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The OCC has no plumbing that has to do with the VGS or BPV.
The OCC is a great thing to do (IMHO) but it doesn't give power or change "spool up", it keeps your intercooler clean and thus helps it do its job.
The VGS and BPV are directly connected (pun intended)
Doesn't really matter if you do one first or both at the same time.
HOWEVER
If you want to do some buttduno do the PBV first, so now you would have improved the spool up because of the spring rate and / OR the better fitting butterfly.
Then do the VGS and you will again see a difference.
Take a look at my gallery at the BPV I took off my car ! BAD !!!
I chased low vacuum around for ages and the BPV did the trick and I can feel the difference.
Good luck ... be a bit careful removing the BPV ... make sure ALL vac hoses are on well.
let us know what you do (what order) and what you think
The OCC is a great thing to do (IMHO) but it doesn't give power or change "spool up", it keeps your intercooler clean and thus helps it do its job.
The VGS and BPV are directly connected (pun intended)
Doesn't really matter if you do one first or both at the same time.
HOWEVER
If you want to do some buttduno do the PBV first, so now you would have improved the spool up because of the spring rate and / OR the better fitting butterfly.
Then do the VGS and you will again see a difference.
Take a look at my gallery at the BPV I took off my car ! BAD !!!
I chased low vacuum around for ages and the BPV did the trick and I can feel the difference.
Good luck ... be a bit careful removing the BPV ... make sure ALL vac hoses are on well.
let us know what you do (what order) and what you think
I will post the results for sure.
I am thinking I could get more intercooler efficency, making more power due to.....
The car having appx. 30k miles on it and never having the intercooler cleaned. The car is a JCW with a higher boost pulley and frequently sees 6k + rpms. I am sure its a mess...
I am hoping there will be some improvments after a good cleaning and the installation of the air diverter with sprayer.
Thanks for the feedback!!!!
I am thinking I could get more intercooler efficency, making more power due to.....
The car having appx. 30k miles on it and never having the intercooler cleaned. The car is a JCW with a higher boost pulley and frequently sees 6k + rpms. I am sure its a mess...
I am hoping there will be some improvments after a good cleaning and the installation of the air diverter with sprayer.
Thanks for the feedback!!!!
The key to doing it easy...
although this won't sound easy....
Take of the IC and the fuel rail to get to the vacuum line at the fuel rail. Then you can easily add the tee for the VGS. Since you have to take the IC off to do the DTBPV (I still think of it as RyePhix II), you really can do them both at once.
Get some bolts to replace the studs for the IC horn that the bypass valve is attached to. The reason it's hard to remove is you have to yank the crap out of it to clear the studs. You should be able to remove two of them (on the front) with some vice grips or the like. Clearing the last one then isn't a problem. With the car in service mode (see below), it's much easier to get to the stock hose clamps (cut them off or whatever) and use a screwdriver or other things to try to break the hose free from one end or the other. A lot of this "stick" is what breaks the intake tube below.
Also, put the car in service mode. It's sound hard but isn't. Five fasteners under the front of the bumper cover, some 8 mm bolts in the wheel liners and two torx screws and the cover is off. Then 5 bolts or nuts a side to get the Al bumper extrusion off, then the radiator shrould comes forward to give you a lot more room to work (you have to loosen the clamp off the upper radiator hose on the intake as well). It's really easy, if a bit intimidating for the first timer (wonder what else falls in this category!
). But I gotta say it's a must thing to learn for anyone who works on thier own car.
For the truely ballsy, when the front is opened up, take out the TB and the TB to SC hose for the "heat gun" treatment.
Earlier cars had some glue flash in there as well that cleaning up would help with....
As far as the OCC, the line that has the PCV valve only flows out of the crank case, the otherone has gasses go both ways! into the intake hose when the PCV valve is closed, and air from the intake through the valve cover to mix fresh air with the blow by when the PCV valve is open. So there is compramise in almost any deployment geometry that doesn't use two cans.
Have fun!
Take of the IC and the fuel rail to get to the vacuum line at the fuel rail. Then you can easily add the tee for the VGS. Since you have to take the IC off to do the DTBPV (I still think of it as RyePhix II), you really can do them both at once.
Get some bolts to replace the studs for the IC horn that the bypass valve is attached to. The reason it's hard to remove is you have to yank the crap out of it to clear the studs. You should be able to remove two of them (on the front) with some vice grips or the like. Clearing the last one then isn't a problem. With the car in service mode (see below), it's much easier to get to the stock hose clamps (cut them off or whatever) and use a screwdriver or other things to try to break the hose free from one end or the other. A lot of this "stick" is what breaks the intake tube below.
Also, put the car in service mode. It's sound hard but isn't. Five fasteners under the front of the bumper cover, some 8 mm bolts in the wheel liners and two torx screws and the cover is off. Then 5 bolts or nuts a side to get the Al bumper extrusion off, then the radiator shrould comes forward to give you a lot more room to work (you have to loosen the clamp off the upper radiator hose on the intake as well). It's really easy, if a bit intimidating for the first timer (wonder what else falls in this category!
). But I gotta say it's a must thing to learn for anyone who works on thier own car.For the truely ballsy, when the front is opened up, take out the TB and the TB to SC hose for the "heat gun" treatment.
Earlier cars had some glue flash in there as well that cleaning up would help with....As far as the OCC, the line that has the PCV valve only flows out of the crank case, the otherone has gasses go both ways! into the intake hose when the PCV valve is closed, and air from the intake through the valve cover to mix fresh air with the blow by when the PCV valve is open. So there is compramise in almost any deployment geometry that doesn't use two cans.
Have fun!
Thanks Dr O!
I am blessed by info straight from the master.
This should be fun, and it will be my first time putting the MINI in service mode. However, I am pretty mechanically inclined and thoroughly enjoy working on cars and motos.
I would like some more info on the heat gun trick. I should probably do this as well when I have it apart.
Is the heat gun treatment worth the work involved?
Does it give you noticable performance gains?
Thanks again for the input.... I really appreciate it!!!
Jasun
I am blessed by info straight from the master.
This should be fun, and it will be my first time putting the MINI in service mode. However, I am pretty mechanically inclined and thoroughly enjoy working on cars and motos.
I would like some more info on the heat gun trick. I should probably do this as well when I have it apart.
Is the heat gun treatment worth the work involved?
Does it give you noticable performance gains?
Thanks again for the input.... I really appreciate it!!!
Jasun
Thanks for the feedback!
I remember reading this post from koopah about the installtion of the DT bypass valve. Our friend MarioKart has offered to help me with the mods. We enjoy working on the MINIs at his friends garage. The good news is Mario has already done the bypass valve mod once on his car and said is was not that bad. I am sure his second time around will be easier.
I will post my butt dyno results after installation.
Should be cool.
Thanks, Jasun
I remember reading this post from koopah about the installtion of the DT bypass valve. Our friend MarioKart has offered to help me with the mods. We enjoy working on the MINIs at his friends garage. The good news is Mario has already done the bypass valve mod once on his car and said is was not that bad. I am sure his second time around will be easier.
I will post my butt dyno results after installation.
Should be cool.
Thanks, Jasun
Mario
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
Moving the horn that the bypass valve is attached to should not damage the plastic intake hose, right? I moved it about half an inch on the studs to get some clearance to access the vacuum line to do the VGS mod.
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