Here's my results from the Mynes/FBR dyno day in Mesa, AZ today...SAE corrected whp(red): 179; torque(blue): 145; 7000 rpm; AFR (black): minimum: 10.8, max: 14.9
Mods are below in sig.

 

Umm... So what were the SAE corrected numbers? Sounds like a high reading dyno to me.

 

Model: Mini Cooper S
Year: 2007
Transmission: 6-speed manual
Gear Used: 4th
Dyno: Mustang MD-250
Modifications: Bone Stock. 250 miles on the odometer
Atmospheric conditions (aka Temperature, humidity, etc.): in the dyno room it was about 40 degrees F
SAE Correction or Actual WHP: Uncorrected WHP

 

There are several accepted correction factors in use. SAE method only refers to correcting for standard temp and pressure values, 29.92 Baro and 59F. That's all. My dyno has a built in weather station that monitors atmospheric conditions and if the SAE correction is selected, corrects to standard temp and pressure. This factor on most days is very small like 1.0045. In some parts of the country it may be more but what matters is that it eliminates this ONE variable when comparing dyno information.

 

I'm sorry, duplicate post. Mod, kindly delete this one. Thanks.

 

06 MCS mildly modified with "not so heavy" 18"rims & 225/35, Whalen shift ****, Stubby antenna, some stickers, Tom Tom one......etc. jk.

SAE correction @ 0.98.
Max power (whp) = 169.47, Max Torque = 152.07



Actual modification: 15% pulley, JCW intake, exhaust, plugs, injectors and software. ~190 bhp (11% drivetrain loss, ~14.2 lbs/hp @ 2700 lbs), not a strong running car but I'm quite happy with the result though. Next project will be new IC, new header and/or the ecu fine tuning.

a/f graph on the 2nd run looked funny, I assumed that the ECU detected the increased of the heat and tried to compensate it. Just my 2 cents.

 

Here ya go..... Mods in sig.



Kinda hard to read - check my photos page for a better view -- 171 WHP , mustang dyno

 

https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/139/



Curious if your car would read higher with lighter wheels...

 

It might?? But I love the look of the S-lites - reminds me of the wheels on my 61 Mini. If I do the Solo2 thing ( auto cross ) again I am going to have to buy another set of wheels & tires that are non-runflat and lighter

But, untill then I'll run the S-lites and Pirellis......unless a realy smokin deal comes along.....

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=93940

Not smokin', but not bad either...

 

i dont think your link is the right page. or maybe your selling some wheels?

 

Just a link to a guy selling some Rota's with some decent tires...not a smokin' deal, but not bad...

 

dyno chart topic but wheel talk confused me. got it now....

 

Indirectly(?) related...that's what I want to see...plus I know the coyote and I know what my S-Lites used to feel like

 

bumpity-bump bump!


Model: MCS
Year: 2006
Transmission: man.
Gear Used: 4th
Dyno: Mustang MD-250
Modifications: 15%, intake, one-ball
Atmospheric conditions: temp was high 70s, but in dyno room less, figure high 60s / 70 even....
SAE Correction or Actual WHP: SAE correction only.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/redskunk/469217088/
Best & worst out of 3 runs.

 

Model: MCS
Year: 2006
Transmission: man.
Gear Used: ?
Dyno: DynoJet
Modifications: none
Atmospheric conditions: temp was in 60s
SAE Correction or Actual WHP: SAE correction

Peak HP (guess) - 160 @6900 (3rd pull)
Peak Torque (guess) - 143 @3850 (1st pull)

All three runs shown, no averaging.

 

 

John; every one of your dyno graphs I've seen from you to date has these little upward swoops at the start and end of the run. What's going on there? They look like operator error to me; should we just crop those odd devations as dyno error?

 

LuckyDog-

That doesnt make any sense to me. What mods made that power?

 

Hey Ryan. Your right about the way it looks in the beginning but that's just from the way that the computer starts the runs. I should crop it to make it look better but I just don't have the time. When I see you at the Dragon we can spend some time and I'll show you how this thing works. I think you're going to like it. From one **** retentive person to another this thing is awesome in its' detail. I'll be down Wed eve so look me up.

 

It would help if the torque reading was in steps of 5 as well like the horsepower, in steps of 2 it makes it look like the torque is falling rapidly.

 

In American, are you talking about the increment on the torque axis?

You're right, the step does change the perception of the variation of torque WRT RPM.

 

All the lucky dog dyno's indicate a falling torque curve. Why is this? Almost every dyno i've seen on other dyno's have been flat across the board.

 

Because the dyno is directly measuring the torque at the wheels and not using a giant roller that can smooth out the curve by maintaining it's momentum. The car has to actively work against the forces the dyno exerts.

 

If that was correct then you would feel a torque peak when driving the car. My car is completely flat across the rev range for torque. There's no area in my rev band that I have more or less torque (within 10 ft/lbs) .

I can't see how Inertia matters since the car is only working against the rotor brake, the inertia isn't "Assisting" the car while it's accelerating. The car is exerting far more force on the rollers than the inertia from the spinning rollers. Is giving back. I can't imagine that just because it's not a dynopack dyno that it's going to throw the ENTIRE torque curve off. Different types of dyno's arn't going to show COMPLETELY different torque curves.