The hat would not hit the ground. That's a great deal. $250 with the boots too? If so even better. Then take Obe's offer, you save almost $500 for all the stuff...

There is some presure drop, a little less than the OE, but with a pulley mod & what Dr Phil said ( see his mod for the Alta diverter ) & you're good to go.

 

are you guys talking about 2% in F, say the difference between 100F and 102F or 2% in Kelvin? 'cause if you're doing the gas pressure and energy stuff, you work in K. that 2% in F is even LESS than 2% in K.

 

Geek alert! geek alert!

 

use degrees K!

Matt, an Uber Geek!

 

Technically, the units of the Kelvin scale are kelvins, not degrees...

 

Personally, I thought Hobbs was the smarter of the two...

 

opening scene: i'm tellin' some tuners "you dudes gotta calculate that ic efficiency in degrees kelvin" while carmen electra is rolling her eyes and making finger in the throat gagging motions.

 

Actually, for the TE calc it doesn't matter whether you use C, F, K, or R. Delta T's don't need absolute units!

 

So you need the absolute units for air density calculations and potetial power gain estimates.

Matt

 

Kelvin?
Kelvin Cool Age was a president. No?
Absolute is a drink that comes in a frosted bottle, that, after drinking, you feel like somewhere between 3000 & 3800 rpms.........

Did I win?

 

Wow. I thought I was the only one THAT far gone.

Do you know why the dropped the "degree" from "degree's kelvin" in 1967?

 

kelvin and metric fractions don't mix!

 

Do you guys know Dr Eugene Patronis?

 

no, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night

 

I'm sorry, I google searched mastubation and I wound up here.

 

 

OK, back on track. More data points from my test this morning.
Ambient 25-ish, nice a clear and sun shining. At altitute, this is about as crisp as it gets.
Test arena: a long (5mile) up and down hill, not stops other than turn around at the top, and swap treatments at the bottom.
5th gear, 3250rpm, about 63 mph

Run I: up hill, constant load, airbox diverter open start out=50F:
amb=23F, in = 145F, out=52F, TE=76.2%
at top of the hill, with an increasing gradient:
amb=23F, in = 166F, out=59F, TE=67.8%

Run2: down hill, constant speed, no load:
amb=23F, in = 117F, out=32F, TE=90.4%

Run3: airbox diverter closed, up hill rest out temp = 48F
amb=24F, in = 146F, out=55F, TE=74.6%
at top of hill:
amb=24F, in = 156F, out=61F, TE=72.0%

Run4: down hill, FAD closed:
amb=25F, in = 119F, out=34F, TE=90.4%

Run5: up hill, airbox diverter open. rest temp out=41F
amb=24F, in = 145F, out=53F, TE=76.0%
at top of hill:
amb=24F, in = 146F, out=60F, TE=70.5%

Unfortuntately I'd say those differences are within measurement error, although they were stable during the run, (increasing at the top of the hill due to the increased incline.)

At least the diversion of air from the DFIC does not appear to be harming the DFIC, compared to the DF scoop. I closed the FAD with a piece of foam shaped like the DFscoop, and covered it with Al tape to get a clean fast airflow across it--pretty darn close to what the DFscoop would be like.

cheers,

 

I've got two spare scoops. What's the optimum for cooling? as big an opening as possible, sealed to the core would be nice, but a bit hard to do.

 

That's one too many!
Actually, sealing the IC is not all that difficult. You can use medium density foam compressed quite a lot and it seals really well. The new M7 foam is this type and is about 1" thick. I've also used rubber "O" type press seals that really work well. This is what Alta uses, even though their seal is not complete at the front of the IC to the scoop.

 

Nice work Phil.

P GT - Make sure you use closed cell foam. Another option is to use open cell coated with RTV or spray on Plasti-Dip.

 

I am confused. My DFIC came with closed cell foam. The new stuff seems open as air can go through. Which is better?

 

I think what was happening, Larry, from the installations I've seen, was that the original foam was too "hard" and would not flex enough against the IC, especially at the left side (looking in). The foam would eventually pull away from the bonnet and lose the seal. The new foam is thicker, but less dense, and so compresses well against the IC to create a good seal, but flexes enough when the engine rocks back and forth, as it does even with an engine damper.
I'd go with the new stuff. It's also wider (about 2") so it should make for a nice airtight seal. It will scuff your polished IC if you have one. (mine has a nice polish on it now, since it came unpolished!)

 

I have a black DFIC and its scuffs easy. I am using both types of foam it a DIY setup. It seems to work great.

 

Did you get this new seal from Peter or Mcmaster?

 

just paid for it this morning. no boots or diverter...will need to track that stuff down. I've got a DDM HDI box already and will be getting a pulley done ASAP at Lucky Dog Garage.

I think I may take a spare scoop and hack it up and fiberglass a larger opening, then repaint it. the stock one hardly seems adequate. I miss the 270 wheel HP on my Subaru. The MINI is more fun to drive, but it needs a bit more ooommph.