Phill don't try it. It will defeat the coating. These coatings are designed to spread the heat evenly so there is not hot spot. For the DFIC this helps the TE by allowing lower temps on the coated surface. Would you insulate a radiator? It is possible that an uncoated DFIC could benifet from the insulation. Need to wait & see

 

That's a good point, but while ceramic coating is meant to act as a layer of insulation, adding an aluminized heat barrier would help redirect radiant heat away from the ceramic in the first place, causing the DFIC (and consequently the IAT) to be cooler overall. This is based on the assumption that the ceramic is cooled predominately by the passing of air through the DFIC (and not, presumably, from the hot engine underneath).

 

Actually my diverter allows some air to pass under the DFIC. Perhaps the best idea would be to insulate the intake manifold that sits under the IC (as per the post on insulating the OEM IC) and keep air moving in the area. Of course nothing seems to help in stop and go traffic, but that's life in the big city...
There's someone (pberry51) on another thread that glued the aluminized barrier over their ceramic coating....ooops.

cheers,

 

Ok...if my buddy Chad at DT can secure me an O2 sensor today...we'll find out how loud this bad girl will be tomorrow

The O2sim won't get here in time so I'll have to live with the fricken yellow warning...

 

It is not insulation. It is designed to stop hot spots by evenly disipating the heat. This alows for better TE, thats why you will find different coatings on the dome & skirt of pistons.

Dr Phill has a better idea, "Actually my diverter allows some air to pass under the DFIC. Perhaps the best idea would be to insulate the intake manifold that sits under the IC (as per the post on insulating the OEM IC) and keep air moving in the area. Of course nothing seems to help in stop and go traffic, but that's life in the big city..." There may be more than enough air passing below the DFIC to cool that plate because the coating works both ways. The plate may get warm but it will be cooler in the bigger picture, even in stop & go traffic.

 

I agree completely that the ceramic serves to dissipate heat in an even manner - but regardless, ceramic is, by definition, an insulator, as it does not conduct heat.

As you've said, in this case, the ceramic acts both as a heatsink (by distributing heat over a large surface area) and an insulator (by shielding the air in the DFIC from heat).

 

An insulator resists heat exchange but does still conduct heat.
Ceramic is outstanding at dissipating heat.

Just look at those Shuttle tiles.

http://www.nasa.gov/missions/shuttle/f_blankets.html

 

LMAO! Thanks to you, now I've got an image in my head of a ceramic-tiled MINI plowing through the atmosphere in re-entry, with fingers of flames licking the ceramic.

The ceramic composite disc brakes that Porsche uses may be more relevant to automotive discussions. Those catch on fire, too!

 

A tiled Mini... with paisley tiles..... I have a matching tie.... Did I win?

The Porsche breaks get so hot they will burn anything that gets close but they also cool at an unbelievable rate. I can't remember the #s but it was almost unthinkable. And yes that is a pretty good comparison.
Using coating on pistons is an easy way to see how the ceramic work. After 5 to 10 race hours the piston will look almost new. This is 1 of many reasons not to put anything over the DFIC coating. I would think M7 would have consulted a company like Max Power or the like that does coating for all types of race pistons, and make a descission on the type of coating best suited for their product.

 

No you won't... Somewhere on here there's a thread on a "mechanical o2 simulator" that's used widely on honda's and other cars. If I'm not mistaken you take 2 spark plug adapters or extenders and screw them into each other, you drill one out a bit and put that one into the existing o2 bung. You screw the o2 sensor into the spark plug adapter/spacer... Cheap too, and works better than the electrical simulators as some people have had bad luck with those...

Worth looking up... Good Luck Oh and take some video... just cause...

 

I looked at that but there's no room where the bung is...I'd have to weld in another bung where there's more clearance for the extension...

 

Oh, then I guess you will have to drive around with the light on haha...

 

I have been anyway...that's why this thread was started...because my bad Miltek cat needed replacing and the lights were on every two cycles

 

One AM...just got done and fired her up with the Megans and.......Holly Mother of All Exhaust Purrs real nice...I can hear each cylinder firing After a little warm up in my garage, I blip it few time and.....

I wanted to take her around the block and wake up the dead but it started to rain...:impatient

 

Ahhh... How sweet the sound is to any first start up.

 

I told you ... your gonna like this... opens up that head/engine......

 

Let me stir the pot a little in this thread.

On my Custom Head, the OBX header was actually larger than the exhaust ports. I think the OBX is 1 5/8" ?? Correct me if I'm wrong. Our flow numbers are comparable to the flow numbers on Randy's head. -- Johan

 

Haha I'm glad you enjoy the Megan/Edge header... Take some video pleaaassseeee...

 

Yeah what he said ^

I want some flames!

Mikey

 

Finish bolting up the Meagn? Should have kept the MILTEK

 

What siz e are the Megan?

looking foward to yr dyno comparison.

 

I still have both my friend

Yes...the Megan/Edge went on yesterday morning around 1am and boy can this set up wake up the dead It is definitely much more aggressive in it's bark but to me, there's no droning. I guess music is all relative to each persons ears...what was found to be too objectionable, I found it enjoyable and even tolerable...the question is whether my wife will agree (for the long Dragon trip) so I'll have to take her for a test drive

In normal traffic driving, it is a bit louder than my Miltek header. At highway speeds (70-80), the motor presence is distinct but not loud enough to overwhelm normal conversation with normal speach.

However, this setup is not for people who lug their motors...if pressed below 3k, it sounds like a Japanese rice cooker, only louder (that's how all motor sounds when lugged but they aren't aware of it)...I'm always above 3.5k anyway so that's not an issue...

Step on it, and that's when the fun begins...frankly, it sounds like a "race car" once the rpms are up on cams...no doubt what the driver's intentions are when I blip down shift and flatten the pedal

However, like I said, the jury is still out until the test drive with Mrs...

 

So when cruising at a steady 2500rpm it sounds like **** basically? or you mean when you punch it from under 3k.. I normally drive keeping my rpm's below 3k for cruising.. How's your gas mileage since you're always above 3500?? lol... don't forget that video!! please!!

 

If you're under light load cruising at 2500...it's very quiet...just don't step on it at that low rpm...every car would sound like !@#$...you just don't know it because of the quiet muffler...there's no power there anyway...

With my mods, the milage is between 23 and 28, depending on right foot...

 

I think the MCS is a dog under 3k, in every gear. I normally reside between 3k and 4k even when cruising on the freeway. My Megan and Miltek catback sounds quiet under constant revs, but really gets loud when the go pedal is depressed. No ricers here. I'm glad it went well for you, Sid!