I looked at these brackets. It is using the bolt that I am utilizing. Does this bracket connected somewhere else? It is unclear from this picture.

Upon closer inspection, it looks like it connects to both the rubber bushing and a second bolt further down and towards the front of the car.

Hey, what is this thing anyway? I disconnected it to give myself a bit more room, and it hissed when I uncapped it. Reconnected after the install and everything seems to work, but it no longer hisses when I uncap it...

i never un hooked mine i worked around it
i dont like unhooking things in my engine bay

MCSa: MINI Cooper S automatic? MCS Stock:should this have been MCS Stick?
Anyway, what is the best engine damper out there? I've been considering getting one for my '06 MCS. I've only heard of the one from Texas Speedwerks.
I've heard about the noise and vibration issues as well, but I have a Magnaflow exhaust, it drowns out everything anyway.

This thread was started by a guy who bought (and thoroughly enjoys) my engine damper kit.

Check out the links in my signature for other threads with feedback.

there is a long debate about it and personal preference if price is not an option then id go with the tsw one it has strong mounting points i cant speak for lordoftheflies because i have his product but i do enjoy my tsw one

Thanks for the info. Next question. My engine mount failed and was replaced twice under warranty in the first 15.000 mi. that I had my car. Will the damper help or make matters worse?

it wont happen again

That's not entirely true.

Whilst an additional engine damper will help, I had my wife's stock motor mount puke. She only has 5000 miles on her 06 MCS and has had the damper on for a few thousand.

So the moral of the story is the aftermarket engine damper will delay this from happening but it won't prevent it. If the stock mount was on its way out, then it's just a matter of time before it pukes.

If you're still under warranty and the mount craps out, do yourself a favor and remove the dampener before bringing the car in. Even odds the dealer will try and say that the damage was caused by the evil aftermarket part.

Why not use a nut insert in the hole for the frame mount. That would be an easy install/uninstall feature. I am thinking of getting one from McMaster Car. The nut insert, however, requires a tool to install it. This might be a good investment for a tool to add a place to bolt on parts very securely where you can not get to the other side. Those M7 USS should have the tool when they installed theirs......HMMMMM? Anyone have one to sell?

ImagoX - did you ever learn what it was that hissed at you?
Arly - I installed the M7 USS so I still have the tool (I can't really remember what it looked like though - it's hell to get old), but if you really want one I can dig it out.

RealOEM calls it a fuel tank breather valve...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=13&fg=15

Cool... thanks. I figured something SO easy to disconnect could probably BE disconnected without negative impact, but it's good to know anyway. I have to bookmark that realoem site.

MINIBEE,
Sent you a PM. Please let me know.

AND here I was thinking that was just all that POWER the mini has

Ok just installed mine yesterday and I Love it (Thanks Shoe)
For those of you that have not done this yet as you've read above the washers on the long bolt can be tricky, your working in a very tight space and coordination and small fingers are very helpful.( which I'm sorry to say I have neither ) and a magnetic pick-up tool is almost an "Absolute Must" ( mine is on a 2' long spring, and I had to go fishing more than a few times )

That being said, Hears a little trick to try:
After doing all the pre-fit trial's for length, and your ready to do the final install, place the long bolt through the Damper slide on the bell washer and flat washer, then take a 1 1/2" to 2" long piece of electrical tape over the top of the thread (not around.) centering the bolt on the tape, then extend it down approximately 1/4" and press it tightly to the thread, then bring the flat washer up to where the tape is, and take the excess tape and press it on and around the flat washer (by only taping approx. 1/4" or so it still allows the bolt some movement for the install). Then do your install, once you've pushed the bolt up through the hole you can easily remove the tape with a small flat screwdriver, tweasers or something. (you only have to worry about removing the tape from the thread, the rest of it can stay if you don't get it all off). This should hold everything in place while doing your install (even though this works ok, you should still have a pick-up tool just in case, Better safe than finding new parts and turning a fun and easy install into a frustrating job.)

I got mine today and installed it. It makes a real difference. It is a pain in the **** to install. I have big fingers and cussed it more than a couple of times. definatly need the telescoping magnet. Its worth the 50 bucks.

I installed mine 2 weeks ago. I have a 2003 MINI Cooper S.

Here's how I installed the screw holding the bracket. I used a screwdriver and a bit of tape. Using the tape to hold the screw on the screwdriver, I slipped the screw under the frame and in the hole. Then I pulled on the screwdriver to release it. The tape is still on the bolt, but who cares.... lol

Driving impression: There is a little (very little) more vibration inside the car, but nothing annoying. It really does make a difference. I took the RPM to 6000 and let my feet off the throttle. There was no more engine movement, or very little. On hard shifts, the engine feels like it is connected to the car and everything feels solid.

I recommand it to everyone!!

Great job TheLordOfTheFlies & Partsman!

btw, installation took 20 minutes, and I took my time.

Hey Everyone...

I posted about how much I love this mod. I STILL LOVE IT...

I do have a question though. My dampener came loose, not where the bolts are attached to the engine and frame, but the red part of the dampener and the little nut at the top... they both came loose and caused a popping noise when driving... i have hand tighten it for now until i can get home and fix it, but I am NOT looking forward to taking it out and installing it back again (its not the most fun install)...

Just wondering if I did something wrong or if this is known to happen... thanks,

Allen

Hi Allen. Glad you love it.

Do you mean the butt cap of the damper body that is the same color as the body of the damper? If so, the butt cap was probably not tight enough from the factory. You should make sure that everything is tight before installing the damper.

The second time around the install is much better.....and by the time you do 50, it's a breeze.

Yes, thats the part I'm talking about.... I'lll make sure its EXTRA tight this time... cause i dont want to do 50 installs... hahaha

thanks,

Allen

i was checking out HarborFreight's flyer for stubbies and they have
a metric set for $27 (or something) but it has all but 17mm. [/quote]

Any excuse to buy a new tool (stubbies, that is). Personally, though, I would avoid imported tools like those from Harbor Freight as nothing is worse than having a wrench snap while working in an enclosed space (I nearly bled to death when I was younger and poorer). Truly - stick to quality stuff as they'll last a lifetime. Craftmen and Kobalt are pretty good and readily available.

Now I'm down to plotting the best way to hold all the bits together when my damper arrives.

from what i heard before my install tape was the way to go, but i had shoe do it for me cause i am way to uncoordinated and i dropped the nut and bolt onto the inside of the skid plate about seven times