Let me start off by saying that the issues I am having are from something I have did and is not due to the AGS! I have did something while installing this and now I am getting SES and EML lights, the codes are as follows!




P1229 - throttle sensor adaption failure
P1689 - electronic throttle control moniter level 2/3 torque - calculation error
P0123 - throttle/pedal position sensor/switch 'A' circuit high
P0222 - throttle/pedal position sensor/switch 'B' circuit low
P1498 - Auxiliary Emissions Control
P0301

 

By the way it seems to be running ok for now but a I dont have but about 3 miles on it so I am probabaly a little pre-mature!

 

From the CEL codes you have, there's something wrong with your throttle body... Have you check the tb's plug to see if it was correctly in?

 

Well it seems to be in right as it will only bolt up one way, I double checked where I spliced the wiring to make sure I didnt cross any wires and it looked fine also!

 

If your talking about an M7, I had the same problems. Just had it fixed today.
Unless it's a version 3 it probably has a vaccum leak. The two earlier versions had a plastic connector to the supercharger. They get hot and may warp and/or they are hard to get a good seal. The version 3 model is milled metal. Works great and won't warp. Also, the wiring harness extension may not have a good connection. Mine was o.k. but my understanding is it can be fixed by cutting the factory harness and solder the extension to it. I think I would check for a vaccum leak first. The guy I go to ran smoke through the system and found the leak it right away.

 

hum... AGS seems like a big hedache to install...

 

but it's not bad. Took me 4.5 hours including taking all the photos for the latest "how to".... and that was my first time. I'd think it would be 2.5-3 for a confident first timer to do it all.....

But therer are times when it provided very impressive results... I don't have any numbers yet, my data logging stuff is on loan....

Oh, and back on topic. Those codes would be from the wiring being faulty, or the connector not being pushed ALL the way down.....

Matt

 

I didnt solder the wires, I just twisted them, taped and heat shrinked them. So your saying to re-do these wires?

 

It may be fine for a while, but it won't be for ever. And remember, the harness here is fixed on the chassis yet the TB moves with the motor, so it's going to get a work out. You need something more "active" than just twisting to get a good connection. Crimp splice units or solder..... Soldering is preferred....

Matt

 

If a designer with clean finger nails can install it under two hours...maybe mechanics should be able to draw a straight line?

 

I just went back to advanced auto and I am down to one code, P1489

 

I would love to see detailed photos of other completed installs..... how about it guys... get out the cameras..... looking for fit and cables etc.....

who has the cleanest install contest

 

The problem is that you can't see my "clean" install without taking off the front bumper

 

and this is a problem why........

 

Can anybody help with the P1489 code

 

Call me in the morning and I will take the time and walk thru the possible
issues you might have....

Peter
Dream M7
562-608-8123 after 9:30am pacific time

 

Problem with AGS is....


you won't be able to fit it on the M62 SC.... Or could you???

 

Thanks Peter, I called you today and left a message with Shelley for you to call me @ home, she said you were busy so I figured I would wait till you had time

 

Do NOT solder the wires. The connections can corrode and affect the voltages. Use crimp style butt connectors and self sealing shrink tube.

 

Thank you for your input, but we have soldered and heatshrinked these wires
a long time with no problems what so ever. Our first Cosworth car has soldered
connectors, with over 2 years of no problems....

peter
Team M7
562-608-8123

 

I'll go with zee Germans on this one.

 

Crimps can degrade as the surfaces oxidize. Soldering won't have that effect. A solder joint is lower resistance than a crimp. The downside of soldering is that the joint isn't flexible, the way multi-strand copper wire is.....

How will the moisture get into the interface to cause the corrosion?

Matt

 

BMW does not allow it for a reason. I am only sharing another veiw. By all means, solder away if you like.

Edit: DrO, the shrink tube we use at bmw melts into a "goo" and seals the connector. It may not be corrosion per say, but the ability of solder to increase resistance.

 

With fine multi-strand Cu wires, the stiffness caused by the solder can lead to work hardening right where the solder stops. This might be a good reason on cars that have lots of vibration, but corrosion just doesn't seem to fit. If you can find out more of an expanation, please share! I'm always looking for new tid-bits!

Matt

 

I'll see if I can find the theory behind this. I have been taught this (ya, that's no excuse) and I have heard it come out of the FSE's mouth a few times lately.