Drivetrain IC Airflow Question
Originally Posted by stevecars60
52o this morning, with the 24s the car starts just as it did with the stock & the IK22s. So far 300m & this car realy likes the 24s best. Only time will tell but so far, it's all good.
I'm interested in 24s as well.
When you say the car likes 24s best, in what way do you mean?
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
For what it's worth, I've switched to NGK Irridium...much more afordable, thicker Irridium tip, easy to find...I use an equivalent to Denso 24s...
And that equivalent is....?????
Originally Posted by hornguys
Steve,
I'm interested in 24s as well.
When you say the car likes 24s best, in what way do you mean?
I'm interested in 24s as well.
When you say the car likes 24s best, in what way do you mean?
1 thing that is weak with the Denso is the crush washer, the plugs don't like to stay tight. The NKG is the plug we raced the shifters with & they never lost their TQ. Msfitoy may be on to something with the NGK. There has been some talk about heads loosing their plugs & some think it's the thread size, pitch, whatever but with the shifters, the Denso was prone loose crush on the washer making the plug loose ( we measured the washers many times - loose a tenth or two - with our non shifter, KT100 Yahama, the power would drop, like a stone ). Why this happens is one of those unanswerable questions. The good news is the crush will hold after a time ( 3 - 4 TQs ). The NGK, having a thicker wire could be a plus.... or not. In days past, early 60s, we used Champion N2Gs to race with, fine wire, very cold, wore out quickly and expensive in the day.
Don't forget to post the model numbers for the NGK equivalent to IK-24. 
I've had Densos for over 50,000 miles and loved em.
But the colder range (and the NGK staying put) looks promising with all this hot weather.
Worst case is I'll just install the Densos 24s.

I've had Densos for over 50,000 miles and loved em.
But the colder range (and the NGK staying put) looks promising with all this hot weather.
Worst case is I'll just install the Densos 24s.
Electrode diameter...
smaller diameters need less voltage for the spark to jump the gap. Has to do with the field gradients near the tips. What sucks is how fragile they can be...
Matt
ps, good sparkplug reference.... http://www.sparkplugs.com/
Matt
ps, good sparkplug reference.... http://www.sparkplugs.com/
Originally Posted by motor on
I think its suffers more from the general heat soak of the giant hulk of metal the releases heat upward. That said I don't think a shield would hurt it; can we make this next weeks project
?
?
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
and the highest pressure wins.. Kind of. If you're into electronics, think of parrallel resistors.
If you aren't into electronics, sorry for the confusion.
Matt
If you aren't into electronics, sorry for the confusion.
Matt
Originally Posted by BFG9000
There are intake manifold thermal spacers for other cars--look like a real thick plastic intake gasket to reduce the heat conducting up from the head. Or even plastic manifolds. Way, way too many BTUs for little heatsinks (airflow issue again), but water sprayers through the intercooler core and onto the intake would help a lot because water's latent heat of vaporization is a very impressive 2260 kJ.kg^-1.
And if pressure was reduced in the engine compartment, air would literally be sucked through the intercooler at speed, with a side benefit being more air would be sucked through the radiator as well. The easiest way to do this is a lower airdam; maybe even a deformable bristle-type one that nearly touches the ground. More pressure in front of it, means less pressure behind it and thus more airflow through any existing openings like the grille and scoop... dead simple, isn't it?
Of course the car must be moving for this to work, but it should be no worse than stock when stopped. A shield blocking the bottom front of the intercooler would mean that, when stopped, hot air from around the exhaust header would rise through the intercooler rather than air from the hot radiator. I don't know which would be hotter, but assume the BMW engineers did their homework.
And if pressure was reduced in the engine compartment, air would literally be sucked through the intercooler at speed, with a side benefit being more air would be sucked through the radiator as well. The easiest way to do this is a lower airdam; maybe even a deformable bristle-type one that nearly touches the ground. More pressure in front of it, means less pressure behind it and thus more airflow through any existing openings like the grille and scoop... dead simple, isn't it?
Of course the car must be moving for this to work, but it should be no worse than stock when stopped. A shield blocking the bottom front of the intercooler would mean that, when stopped, hot air from around the exhaust header would rise through the intercooler rather than air from the hot radiator. I don't know which would be hotter, but assume the BMW engineers did their homework.
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