I know several of us would like more info on how to do this engine lift install of the pulley. The info jlm posted was good, but a bit confusing as to exactly which parts/bolts he's referring to. Do you have any plans to try this and post the results?

Thanks!

R

 

That's a great idea. I will try it and take some shots as I go to do another How-to. I do like having the supercharger off the car for the install though.

I'm going to be doing DiD's car soon, so I'll use that car.

Randy

 

Awesome!! Just have it done by the end of April, beginning of May.....

R

 

 

caddman - you are the man!

 

caddman - you are the man!

 

Sorry Cadman, I had forgotten who originally came up with this. I only had discovered jlm's directions today.

But credit to you for finding this GREAT option!!!!

R

 

I was just kidding, I have learned way more from Randy and sleepless, than i could ever repay, Just glad i was able to contribute, and hopefully can find some other inovative ideas to help us all, as they have done so much to help me

PS Randy did you get to look at my dyno thread to you, just kinda wondering if you might have any insight on the posed questions, if they have been looked into or am i overthinking things etc.....

 

my opening line gave credit to the cadman; all I did was write down what he found out and I repeated.

 

Two questions. First where can I find the info that this post is about and if it is about getting the pulley off without pulling the front end off I asked Randy about this as a possibility when I ordered my pulley when they first came out. I thought that the motor mounts could be taken loose and the motor jacked up enough to get the pulley off. He did not think it was possibly or a good idea at least. I still have not put the pulley on I wanted to wait for the ECU to be figured out. So if this is a possibility give me the down low. I will still most likley have to pull my car apart because I bought the first mania pulley. {{Press fit}} heat and slide out of the question.

 

a lot of material ended up here: starts at bottom of page 5 nd goes on with some
pics
http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...p;pagenumber=5

 

Thanks jlm.
Could just the front of the supercharger be taken off in your opinion in this method. I ask because of the pulley I bought needs to be pressed on. And yes I know there is fluid in the nose of the supercharger I can get around this and it will give me a way to change the fluid.

 

kite-surfer,

I still think the better way to do it is to go ahead with the full front end removal and take the supercharger off the car. I figure though, if folks are going to do it anyway, I'll at least photo document it and turn it into a how-to to help people do it the best way possible.

As far as the pulley being press fit, that's how jlm's is too, and he used the motor mount removal method, so it's possible with either set-up.

I've done both the P&D/MINI-Motorsport Pulley and the 3-piece Mini Mania Pulley. Both are excellent products, and both have advantages. I like the 3 piece pulley for the ease of installation, and I like the precision of the P&D pulley, and the fact that it can interchange the actual pulley size (not that you will ever change it - buit that you can is cool).

Hope that helps!

 

Randy was jlm's the press or the prrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeessssssssssssss fit. I dont think that I can do the big pry bar method with the all aluminium pulley. Not that a big pry bar was used I was not there I dont know.

 

randy, can you recommend someone in ct. to do the pulley installation?

 

The P&D pulley will slide on without a problem, put away the praybar The trick is heat! When you think that you have the sleave hot enough keep going. jlm's idea of putting it in a toast-r-oven @ 500deg. is an easy way to make sure that it is good and ready. If it does not go all the way onto the shaft you can press it on VERY VERY VERY carefuly. You can press it on using the theads on the center of the SC shaft. We have done over a half dozen pulleys using caddmans meathod and we fell that is it by far the best. It cuts the install time in half! which is cheaper for the client.

jochmd- We are in Phila, PA. I am sure that we could help you out with this.

 

Chris,

I'm just curious (not going to do an install myself)--how long do you have to work with it before it cools enough to bind?

TIA,

Jeff

 

I've never tested it out to see how long I have to wait.

I would guess you have around a minute or so. It doesn't take that long to slide it on. The way I've been doing it is to have a stud in the center of the shaft, slide the pulley on hot, then wind it down carefully with a thick washer and nut.

Hope that helps!

Randy

 

friedduck ,

You have 10 seconds or less. Remeber that we are talking about a tiny tiny tiny little difference between the two and that the heat is going to transfer to the shaft the moment you slide the sleave on. We have been using a torch on the piece right up to the moment we put it on. It is not the end of the world if it does not go all the way down, as I said earlier you can press it on, It is just a little hairy , if you break something in the SC shaft your up the creek! Remeber all the force it takes to get the stock one off, it needs the same to go back on. Give as a call if you have any questions.

 

Actually you've both answered my question. I was wondering how you'd carefully line up a 500 degree pulley (esp if you've left the S/C in the engine.) I'm going to have to have a moment of silence for my warranty when I get one!

Jeff

 

the P&D pulley hubs have a slightly enlarged bore (+.001) for the first .060 to help with alignment

 

friedduck,

With the SC still on the car, there is plenty of room to make sure that you line the sleave up. Taking the SC off does not buy you anything but time.

 

Ok so if I heat my aluminum pulley to 300 degrees it will just slide on, or with mini amount of effort? Also, could you cool the shaft as well with something like the spray used to clean this key board that I am pecking at? Last, Randy how close to a good ECU mod are you?

 

The aluminum pulley will slide on, but it will depend on the interference on how hot you will need to get it.

I'm close to having something that will work. Unfortunately, it is a piggyback unit, which some of friends here on the board aren't happy with. I am very interested in any other solution, as the flash programming I've used from Superchips and EVOTech hasn't been the best as of yet.

What I do have is a unit that interrupts the ECU signal and reprograms it with the base we have developed on the dyno. The drawback is that you will need to T 7 wires form the ECU harness. I will be working on a plug in system once the unit arrives, but that may be very complicated to say the least. The cost is $680 and includes the wiring harness, instructions, and the new program.

Hope that helps - I'll keep everyone posted!

Randy

 

kite-surfer,

Theoretically yes, but............Aluminum (the pulley) has a coefficient of thermal expansion more than double that of steel (the s/c shaft). Which means for every degree you heat or cool either, the aluminum part will change actual dimensions more than double the amount of the steel part.

Further the steel shaft has a very high thermal mass and poor conductivity, meaning you will likely expend a whole case of keyboard cleaner (just compressed air), before you change the temp of the shaft a few degrees. The aluminum pulley has a low thermal mass, high conductivity, and it's small enough to fit in your oven. You can easily heat it to more than 500 degrees F. Relative to that, any dimensional change you could achieve in the shaft would be inconsequential. Don't waste your time or your keyboard cleaner. :smile:

Get the pulley as hot as your oven will go (500-550 degrees F?). And then move quickly with thick oven mits! The same low thermal mass and high thermal conductivity that make it so easy to heat also mean it will cool very quickly, so you won't have a lot of time.

Best of luck,

James
(Senior Staff Mechanical Engineer - in case you wondered)