I just got done doing the adjustment to the bypass valve where you adjust the butterfly valve and have a few comments and questions.

1. I was unable to turn the adjustment screw even after heating it up a bit. The screw cracked down the side after cranking on it too hard. I ended up using my dremmel to grind down the other side of the screw to make the adjustment and it worked well.

2. You know the black plastic tube that the throttle body and bypass valve mount on? I broke the tab at the mount towards the center of the car just behind the radiator. I pushed it down just a little too much to get the bypass valve off. Once again . It didn't seem to affect anything though but I was wondering if anyone has ever changed that part out. It goes off into no mans land and looks like you have to pull the radiator out just to get at it. What do you think, leave it or swap it out?

3. The results are great, it has more throttle response, feels faster but I doubt its all that much. The biggest thing is the response. I definately recommend doing the adjusment.

 

I split the adjustment screw also; it is super thread locked in place on the more recent models. If you are talking about breaking the tab on the supercharger intake duct at the point where the safety screw attaches to on the supercharger; then yes replace the supercharger intake duct and replace the gasket at the same time. It can be done with the front end in service mode without removing the radiator if you can tolerate hyper-extending the elbows.

 

What do you mean front end in service mode?

 

Could you post a link to the How-To explaining this mod? I did the VGS and noticed much improvement, this sounds different though, and even more throttle response sounds both interesting and frightening

 

haha, word for word, this is exactly what happened to me....

Problem is tho, i heated it using a propane torch and got a mate with a clamp to twist it while i torched it. Took about two hours, but the worst thing is, that ok yes, I got the screw to move, but the plate itself (inside the valve) catches on the walls, i.e. it does not sit horizontally....:( The leak is vastly reduced, but there still is some. The plate was not machined correctly to fit inside the bypass valve cylinder. Well on mine, at any rate. So what happens is that on my bypass valve, the spindle doesn't rest against the adjustment screw, but actually is stopped by the plate hitting the wall. However, i removed the plate and had a look at how the shaft rests when the plate isn't jammed against the walls, and it sits perfectly horizontal, so hopefully with some wear and tear, the plate will sit flush in time, especially with my VGS slamming it shut quickly:D

 

One word or 3 letters i should say............... AGS from M7

 

Whats

 

If your going to go as far to replace the inlet tube on the SC, you might as well get the AGS (air gain system) from M7. Its flow's more air then the stock unit. Theres all kinds of threads on here about it. I have it on my car and have been loving it since day one .

 

Has anyone here figured out how to get the adjustment screw moving on the later BPV with the new stronger threadlock? Will heating with a propane torch do the trick? Thanks

 

bambam, THE ITCH and others, use the search feature on this forum to get more insight into the supercharger intake duct and bypass valve. Although most of what’s discussed is fiction and ethereal speculation some tidbits are fact. Many of your questions and concerns have been addressed before.

Service mode is to extend the radiator support without removing the hoses. There are two modular front end extensions # 90 88 6 118 400/401 & 402 designed for this and should be apart of your tool kit if you desire self-reliance in maintaining your MINI. Buy a Bentley service manual before working on your car and you will get the best guidance. The first time I removed the front end I didn't have the manual and was able to make the swap because the procedure is straightforward except it is wiser to have the correct torque values (always use a torque wrench).

The SID gasket seal is crucial, if there's a leak then performance suffers and that safety bolt plays a valuable roll in security.

 

[quote=k-huevo]bambam, THE ITCH and others, use the search feature on this forum to get more insight into the supercharger intake duct and bypass valve.

k-huevo
I always try to use the search fuction and review posts daily. I'm sorry but I have not seen a remedy to the new threadlock that they are using now. Maybe you could point me in the right direction. Thanks

 

So far, those that have reported a split set screw have used the file down “work around” method as a remedy for the immovable setscrew. File the end of the stop limiter screw until the butterfly comes close to occlusion, loosen the butterfly fasteners, center the butterfly (an eraser can help), re-tighten the butterfly fasteners, and file the stop limiter until the butterfly allows only a preview of light around it.

I would guess that a vise grip could hold the adjustment screw well enough to break the bond, but that would be for you or someone else to try. My concern was that much force might bring some thread out with the screw.

Carroll Smith writes this in his Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook for killing the Loctite bond, “…if the head of the offending cap screw is heated to bright red with a small-tipped welding torch… allowed to cool and struck a sharp blow with a hammer, the damned thing will usually come out.” The bypass valve would not survive this kind of extracting measure of course.

 

I wouldn't hit it with a propane torch, i just did that cos i was getting bored of struggling with it. Got a mate with a vice grip to twist it while i heated it....i'm an impatient sort of person

 

k-huevo,

Where do you get your BMW tools? Do you go to a MINI dealer? I've considered Baum Tools (recommended in the Bentley manual) but the quotes for the tools seem steep. Have you had any luck getting these special tools at a decent price?

Thanks.

 

I’ve bought MINI specific tools from Classic MINI of Mentor 440-266-6700, my local parts department, and Samstag Sales http://www.samstagsales.com/ some specialty tools can be used across manufacturers (Mercedes as an example). Sometimes savings can be had with a little research and part bin combining but for the most part the tools are exclusively priced. 20% below list (Classic MINI) is the best you can hope for when buying retail & new.

 

Thanks, Man. You are the best!