Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Sick of no low end!

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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 05:34 PM
  #1  
SuperMINI03's Avatar
SuperMINI03
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From: Colorado
Hey
I have a red and white "S" and I am getting anoyed with not being able to get off the line. It is just to sluggesh. Are there any cheap aftermarket products that I can put on and still keep the car under warrenty?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:03 PM
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davequick
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From: Redmond, WA
1) Turn off DSC
2) rev to 3k
3) drop clutch

no chip needed.

-dq

 
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:09 PM
  #3  
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1) Get rid of the Run Flats

That's all you need to do. The first gear bog is entirely due to the run flats. They wiegh 50 lbs with the s-lites. If you get a regular tire on 16" wheels you can drop 13-15 lbs per wheel with ease. That will dramatically effect how your MINI accelerates. Plus, the tires are more comfortable.

I say this after having 10000 miles on the run flats and another 10000 miles on regular tires. :smile:
 
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:18 PM
  #4  
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SuperMINI03
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From: Colorado
Hey,
What if I have ASC will that still work?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:22 PM
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As I said above: The bogging problem is caused by the Run-Flats.

You can turn off the ASC just like you can DSC, but fundimentally, the run-flats are a lot of rotating mass, if you get rid of those it will make a difference not just off the line, but in ride comfort.

 
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:35 PM
  #6  
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SuperMINI03
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Hey,
what kind of tires did you put on yours, how much do they cost, how about your 16" wheels?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:40 PM
  #7  
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I had the Yokohama AVS ES100 205/50 R16 tires. They are $75 each from the Tire Rack. The 16" v-spokes I got from Classic Auto Campus for $125. Total weight was 37 lbs. which is 13 lbs lighter than stock.

For autocross, I'm using the Falken Azenis 215/45 R16 tires. I got them from Discount Tire Direct for $105 each.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2003 | 08:54 AM
  #8  
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Replacing the runflats helps, but you still need to keep it over 3000 rpm, that's the nature of this Chrylser Engine whether it's the MC or MCS....under 2500 rpm and both models are a dog unfortunately....over 3000 and either car moves out nicely...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2003 | 05:32 PM
  #9  
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>>1) Get rid of the Run Flats
>>
>>That's all you need to do. The first gear bog is entirely due to the run flats. They wiegh 50 lbs with the s-lites. If you get a regular tire on 16" wheels you can drop 13-15 lbs per wheel with ease. That will dramatically effect how your MINI accelerates. Plus, the tires are more comfortable.
>>
>>I say this after having 10000 miles on the run flats and another 10000 miles on regular tires. :smile:

Sounds like a great improvement, and just keep a can of "fix a flat" in the boot. But what if you get a flat you need help with? AAA will come down and look for a spare to put on, so they are out.

What about MINI's roadside? Will they flatbed you somewhere? I hardly get flats anymore, but one that can't be fixed without a spare can really ruin your day. Especially in the wrong place.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2003 | 09:40 PM
  #10  
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From: Tacoma, WA
>What about MINI's roadside? Will they flatbed you somewhere? I hardly get flats >anymore, but one that can't be fixed without a spare can really ruin your day. >Especially in the wrong place

Saturday I got a flat. I called MINI roadside assistant. They told me that unless the tire is defective there is not much they could do, since the car was still drivable. Now, I still have the runflats and man I tell you, the area where the light started blinking, I did not want to stop.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2003 | 10:02 PM
  #11  
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From: Denver
Here's the total answer to bog debugging.

Step 1

As DiD said, get rid of the runflats with either the 16" v-spoke or another lightweight 16" wheel with some good tires - the Yokes or the Kumhos are both good choices. Falkens are the best if you aren't doing a lot of wet weather driving. Check out the new wheels here.

Step 2

Get an intake - any of them will help.

Step 3

Get an exhaust - that one will depend on your priorities and personal preferences for sound, but there are at least two out there that make significant differences.

These changes are dramatic. Hopping back in a stock S after making these changes will make the standard S feel downright anemic.

BTW, the DSC (or ASC) is fine on the street, as long as you aren't trying to drag race. It shouldn't interfere at all with good old fashioned acceleration.

Hope that helps!

Randy

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Old Feb 17, 2003 | 10:19 PM
  #12  
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From: Chicago, IL
I agree with Randy and can testify that the intake will make a significant difference for the money. Also the mini-motorsport airbox modification does seem to add some power and definitely some desirable intake and supercharger noise.
I just put on the Magnaflow exhaust and have one comment, “HOLY COW!” The car is an entire new beast, I have only had it for 3 days/300 miles, but fourth gear pulls like the stock 3rd gear, it’s a major difference! BTW I am still on the stock run-flats waiting for my BBS RK 17” rims :smile:

 
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Old Feb 18, 2003 | 03:06 PM
  #13  
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>>I agree with Randy and can testify that the intake will make a significant difference for the money. Also the mini-motorsport airbox modification does seem to add some power and definitely some desirable intake and supercharger noise.
>>I just put on the Magnaflow exhaust and have one comment, “HOLY COW!” The car is an entire new beast, I have only had it for 3 days/300 miles, but fourth gear pulls like the stock 3rd gear, it’s a major difference! BTW I am still on the stock run-flats waiting for my BBS RK 17” rims :smile:
>>

I guess I will stick with the run flats, because even though I hardly get a flat, I know it will happen in the wrong place and time!

Does the Magnaflow exhaust wreak havoc with the warranty?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2003 | 04:19 PM
  #14  
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Moving this thread over to PerfMods

An exhaust really shouldn't cause you warrenty issues, but it's of course always best to check with your dealer to see how they view it.
 
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