If you click on the Click here for list of mods in my sig all will be revealed as to content.

As for price, that has been discussed earlier in this thread, but I will repeat it here from a post by MAXMINI:

"The average Cosworth pkg comes to 5620 less taxes installed"

Please don't hesitate to ask any other questions,

Bill

 

Sorry did not know you had a sig line. I have those turned off to save download time and save screen space.

With the list of mods you have on your ride, I'm happy you achieved over 200whp. That's really good.

 

Can you please please please put us out of our misery M7/ Cosworth owners run the car down the 1/4 mile so you can back up the 200 or 216 whp rolling road figure.

I must admit I don't understand why no one has done this alreay because I would just to shutup the dis-believers

Any chance of making it a NAM law from now on that you can only talk about the rolling road figure as long as you have a 1/4 mph figure as well

Car weight including driver would help as well.

 

The wife has a theory on this, she reckons that;

"Why would people who spend all that money on modifying there vehicle would want to disapprove what a rolling road says by going down the drag strip. If they have a nice graph showing them that they make ###whp"

My argument is that I would want to back up the claim, she quite rightly says "buts that you, a drag racer"

Also she uses the above argument on why I can't buy a rolling road becauase I would want it calibrated to the drag strip, but this wouldn't help us pay for it because everyone would say that our rolling road reads low

I knew I should of found one with less brains

 

So, for $5620, one gets this installed? :

Engine Modifications: M7/Cosworth Stage 2+ kit consisting of:

· M7/Cosworth cylinder head, Shrick cam, M7 400cc injectors, M7 Ported & Polished Supercharger, M7 AGS V2 Intake, M7 62mm throttle body w/Carbon Fiber Heat Shield, M7/MTH custom ECU upgrade, M7 16% SC pulley, M7 2% lightweight crank pulley, M7 catch can.

· M7 Water/Alcohol injection system.

 

Andy, he said the average cosworth kit costs that much. I presume that there's kits on each side of this.

However, it'd be interesting to know how much $$$ investment it did take to get 216whp.

 

if it works out, the head with cam and software to rev reliably to 8k would be the butt-kicker.

 

....and we've got less than three weeks until this is realized . You guys will get what you've asked for, I promise. re: the drags, since I'm gonna be home for my break, I'll have to figure out a way to get there without grossly irking the parentals, or else that will take until after my vacation. Hope this helps clarify things.

BTW, I've never dragged my car on the track [once with a G Tech, but we all know that that isn't safe, so I didn't try it too enthusiastically]. It's not really my thing, so I don't intend to be getting any baselines. Ok, now that's settled.

 

kewl can't wait to see it...

and i can totally respect your postion with the P's and drag racing... I learned that it was better to ask for forgiveness than for permission... however this doesn't work on all parents... and as far as drag racing is concerned... don't use the gtech... its all about going to the strip!!

 

Hey paul,

Are you sure you have never owned a choped duece coup or bucket? Or maybe a COPO Camaro? Or boss 429 or anything like that?


the drag racing force (perhaps you could call it the John Force) is strong in you... Keep it up!

P.S. it sounds like you got a keeper their... dont get rid of her! Good ones are hard to find!

 

The water injection sytem would be extra but we found out early on that we lost hp with it so we stopped working with it for the time being. We got our best numbers without using it .

Randy
m7 Tuning

 

Yes to the deuce coupe,66 Chevelle,500 cad powered 56 Anglia 55 Chevy 78 Malibu etc etc

Between the garage and the bedroom there's a brand new 572 cu in Chevy with AFR heads .800 lift cam built to run on pump gas its spec to make 825-850 on pump on an engine dyno, then on top of that we have a dual stage wilson nitrous plate for an extra 175 - 600.

I do have a nice Black 03 Mini which I want to tube and make rwd ..............

P.S Yes I think I'll keep her

 

Just enjoy it, I know you will, you'll be with like minded people all of them want a quicker timeslip than the one before.

Don't worry about the et its the mph what shows what Horsepower you have et just shows how efficent you and your car are .

 

OK, cool, now I don't feel so nervous about being totally inexperienced with this drag racing business ! Like I said, when I get the chance, the car will fly .

PS: Any plans of sneaking a MINI One into the country so I can pop my motor in and truly fly? hehe

 

I KNEW IT!!!!

ahh thats awesome! I bet that anglia was just STOOPID!!!!!! ha ha! Thats rediculous power! I love it!

Damn, i wish we were neighbors! Your neighbors probably wish i was your neighbor too when you start up that beast!

You probably have some sort of piston or a rod hanging from the x-mas tree too huh...

 

My life is now complete, I always wanted to hear a british guy say "lets put another plate on and the run it" in reference to his GM big block motor.

 

.PS: Any plans of sneaking a MINI One into the country so I can pop my motor in and truly fly? hehe[/quote]

The only weight you'll save is the battery box in the bootfloor as thats the only difference between the shells.

I had to cut one out the other day(cooper S boot floor) and I couldn't believe the weight of it

I think you could get another 200lb out of the car but incur a lot of expense, might as well drill out the nitrouss jet a couple of thou and save the money

 

you have a mini one... you just have to give up somethings to get it to the MINI ones weight... ha ha... and don't forget about driver weight... sometimes we concentrate on the cars loosing weight when we should really be looking in the mirror

i agree with paul you could take out some weight... or... ... ... ...just add a little more bottle thats always the easiest! best yet... do both...

 

Most of my racing friends cant believe how quick the Mini is and how little we've done to it.

I just cant wait to spray the mini properly this year, it'll be intresting to see how much it can cope with.

 

The more whp your car has the better driver you need to be on the strip. My local strip is very slick and I have the hardest time hooking up off the line and in second... third too if I come off the clutch too fast. But hey, I'm quite inexperienced.

I would think a 200 whp MCS in the hands of an inexperienced driver could put up worse numbers than a stock MCS just because it can be difficult to put the power to the ground.

BTW, my best speed was 95.119 mph with a full tank o gas (hadn't planned to race that night), a loose evap hose, and shifting 600 RPM later than I should have. Can't wait to try it again!

 

When do you feel that you _should_ shift? Based on the torque curve?

 

Let me start by saying I have never dynoed my car. Based on what I've read from more experienced racers I should be shifting around 6500... possibly less going in to second to keep from slipping. The logic I was given is I'm too far past the peak hp when I shift so I'm loosing hp by shifting so late.

 

Our cars make more hp at the redline. The higher you raise the rpm, the more power [hp]. Anyone know what proper drag racing technique for the MINI power curve is?

 

Just over 5 lbs to be exact.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=53618

JP

 

A rule of thumb is 500rpm above peak hp, now whether this is a old wives drag racing tale who knows

The other thing to do is experiment but really you need to do 3 runs to verify that shift point.

We were trying to slow down for an 8.90 class once and we lowered the shift point 200 rpm each run on my mates car starting off at 7000 we eventually got down to 6200 and we had gone from 8.82 to 8.68, sometimes you don't know your own car

We gave up on the 8.90 class as well