First I'd like to say I'm new to NAM and hi to all. I am patiently waiting for a delivery of a JCW GP. In anticipation of my new MINI I have been browsing these threads looking for ways to improve the performance of my much anticipated new car. One of the things that I've noticed is the common problem of a misaligned bypass valve. My question is if there is any detailed instructions on how to check if the bypass valve is completely closing and aligned correctly. Any "how to instructions" along with pictures if possible would be very helpful.
Thanks for your help!

 

I think the main method is just to look at it. Take it apart and play with it a bit and see if it will close all the way when in the close position. Also since you got it apart you can put a lil stronger spring on it to make it more responsive.

 

Is there any specification on the spring to use. Also i started this same thread on MINI2 and recieved a reply that they were now threadlocking the bypass valve so that they could not be adjusted. I had not heard of this before.

 

Threadlock shmedlock. Get a bigger wrench! There are three screws in play: the set-screw for setting the limits. The two screws that locate the butterfly. There's been threadlock on the limit screw for a while, but it's not cement. Make sure you have some loktite red or something after you reset the limit. It seems that many need the limit reset (I got a spare, and it wasn't too good either), but not all need the butterfly repositioned. Just my luck, mine did.
For spring changes, you can get the RyephixII spring, or just get the valve from Detriot Tuned, as they have re-worked ones in stock pretty much all the time.

But read the thread. There are some pointers in there that will make your life much easier (like replaceing the studs for the post IC horn with bolts, and having some hose clamps on hand to replace the ones from Mini you'll trash getting the valve off the first time).

Also do a search on VGS.....

Matt

 

so which one is the way to go? vgs or the rhye ?

 

VGS is great and free

 

If your bypass is leaky, your loosing boost no matter how you operate the valve...

Matt

ps, I posted a review of a book on SC system. I'd reccomend reading it so you know how all this stuff works.

 

How do you know if your valve is leaky? Do you simply remove everything and see?

 

Yah, MINI should have used studs on the wheels, and bolts on the bull horns, but we got the opposite...

 

Would anyone have detailed instructions on how to remove the bpv so that it can be checked? I would appreciate any info or links as my mini has not arrived as of yet. I have done a search but no good results. Thanks

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8&postcount=10

This thread explains a lot about the phix......

Matt

 

Matt
Thanks for the link. I appreciate your help.

 

Welcome to NAM.

I'd like to look at this issue from a different angle. Why do you assume that the quality control engineers at BMW/MINI would allow "bypass valves" to be installed on the engines if they were out of specification? Do you think that the engineering staff would choose to have the valve slightly open if it did not satisfy some preformance criteria?

Just a thought.

 

I have been woundering that myself too. It's better not to ask questions sometimes, as I have so seen

 

If there were a reason, all of them would be the same. But they aren't so no matter what the target is, the spread in the piece is attrocious. Think, we spend all that $ to go from a base to an S, and they're leaking boost by design? It just doesn't make any sense.
There are reasons to have a bp valve, but reducing boost under load isn't one of them.

Matt

 

Less boost = more mpg, no?

Some companies are tunnel visioned in achieving certain goals.

 

They could have done that with a good bypass valve and a less agressive SC pully, and extended SC life as well. There is no rational argument why you'd pressurize the intake charge, just to let it leak back out.

I'll stick with the lack of any rational arguement coupled with the fact that there is large varience in the valves themselves. Crappy QC on the part, but obviously not worth MINI's time to swat the supplier, or do more incoming product checks. Sad.

Matt

 

its true !!
__

 

could we actually have people agreeing in Performace threads? What ever will the off-topic crowd have to complain about?!?!

Matt

 

i dont do much hangin' out over on "off topic"

 

How many bypass valves have you actually seen yourself? Of that number how many were fully closed?

You present yourself as an authority, one who was seen many of these parts.

It woould be nice to have one of the official MINI people weigh-in on this issue.

 

Here's some great pics that Cooper_Si provided:

 

Check this link from MINI2
http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105348 post #6 from Roland at GT tuning. I'm pretty sure he has seen quite a few

 

The thing is....They made the part correct for everyday driving to be easy on you when you hit the gas and then back off......Doing this mod will increase the motor movement ive found being your shutting the motors power off very quickly which in turns gives you a bad motor mount feel.

I do no recommened this mod to anyone who complains about the littlest things wrong with there car because you will feel a difference in the driving habits and how the car feels.

 

I agree that the motor mounts definitely feel weaker since there is more movement felt, especially when the throttle closed quickly. On the other hand, the type of people who complain about the littlest thing would likely complain about yo-yo as well.