Drivetrain Randy Webb's new exhaust
My little dose of LITHIUM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Having inspected the photos on Randy's web(b)site and talking to him last weekend at the Albuquerque PP, here's my interpretation: All exhaust passes through the resonator after the cat. through a very large (3") central pipe. The gate closes the RHS pipe forcing all the exhaust gases through the large muffler on the left. When open, the gate allows exhaust to exit the RHS tailpipe with only the resonator restriction (!) I'd guess the closed gate position is quieter and less power, but the open gate is noisier and more power. I don't know about the torque in either mode.
btw, I don't see any "small connector pipes" other than reinforcing hardware to keep the entire system solid. Note that there are only 2 rear mounting point compared to 4 on the OEM and, say, Milltek exhaust systems.
over and out,
btw, I don't see any "small connector pipes" other than reinforcing hardware to keep the entire system solid. Note that there are only 2 rear mounting point compared to 4 on the OEM and, say, Milltek exhaust systems.
over and out,
It is good to see all of the interest in this system.
Here is what I can tell you at this point:
SpiderX is going to have the newest prototype on his car, and is helping us because the manufacturer is in his back yard. He's also a good sound board for me, as I have worked with him extensively on his car to this point.
The system is larger than any other system on the market, by quite a bit. That is due to testing here with the prototype system in different diameters.
It is also the nicest stainless used on any system out there.
The valve we are using is full tilt tested - we are going to the track on Tuesday this week to do more testing. It is also the same valve used in WRC applications.
The system is user controlled. There is a switch in the cabin. This switch can be opened to any position, which allows the user to "dial in" the level of sound.
We worked hard on muffler location and orientation for best flow, and the connections used are critical. All sizes were developed through testing. Our system looks a little different than the others besides the valve, and for specific purpose.
The price will probably be in the low $800 range, and may be a little less if we can source the valve for less - I will not compromise quality for price though.
So far, this system makes significantly more power than any other system we have tested. I am waiting to do the testing on the final version before releasing the numbers. We will be doing the testing on cars with relatively few mods all the way up to cars like my Mule and SpiderX's monster.
We are making an initial run of 10 units, and will make another run of 10 when inventory falls below 5. One of the benefits of having the system built in the USA is having quick access.
I hope that answers some of the questions. As soon as we have the prototype up and running, I will post as much info as I can possibly imagine to.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Here is what I can tell you at this point:
SpiderX is going to have the newest prototype on his car, and is helping us because the manufacturer is in his back yard. He's also a good sound board for me, as I have worked with him extensively on his car to this point.
The system is larger than any other system on the market, by quite a bit. That is due to testing here with the prototype system in different diameters.
It is also the nicest stainless used on any system out there.
The valve we are using is full tilt tested - we are going to the track on Tuesday this week to do more testing. It is also the same valve used in WRC applications.
The system is user controlled. There is a switch in the cabin. This switch can be opened to any position, which allows the user to "dial in" the level of sound.
We worked hard on muffler location and orientation for best flow, and the connections used are critical. All sizes were developed through testing. Our system looks a little different than the others besides the valve, and for specific purpose.
The price will probably be in the low $800 range, and may be a little less if we can source the valve for less - I will not compromise quality for price though.
So far, this system makes significantly more power than any other system we have tested. I am waiting to do the testing on the final version before releasing the numbers. We will be doing the testing on cars with relatively few mods all the way up to cars like my Mule and SpiderX's monster.
We are making an initial run of 10 units, and will make another run of 10 when inventory falls below 5. One of the benefits of having the system built in the USA is having quick access.
I hope that answers some of the questions. As soon as we have the prototype up and running, I will post as much info as I can possibly imagine to.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Originally Posted by 04yellowS
Buy the OBX and for $100 more or so cut out the right muffler and tie in an electric exhaust cutout. Total = less than $500.
Ebay link

Ebay link
Let's say the unit is $800 for argument's sake. If it makes significantly more power and has the right materials and design, the valve cost of $140 makes the system itself $660 - a deal when considering the TIG welding, stainless material used, and the correct size tubing.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Pics of the first prototype so you don't have to go searching:


Things that have changed - the hangers used are outside to allow all years to work with the new system, the cutout is on the driver side for weight distribution, the angle of the single muffler is totally different for flow purposes, the muffler is larger, and the sizes after the Y are changed after dyno and acceleration tests. Also, the tips are adjustable, but made as one piece. The tip design is the same though.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Things that have changed - the hangers used are outside to allow all years to work with the new system, the cutout is on the driver side for weight distribution, the angle of the single muffler is totally different for flow purposes, the muffler is larger, and the sizes after the Y are changed after dyno and acceleration tests. Also, the tips are adjustable, but made as one piece. The tip design is the same though.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Last edited by RandyBMC; Oct 30, 2005 at 10:57 AM.
isn't 3 inch piping a little much for a little 1.6L four? forced induction or not. what happened to the whole larger diameter tubing=less torque down low rpms ideas. i hope this exhaust lives up to the hype because it's the only exhaust option on the market right now (IMHO) that would be worth the $800 asking price. ingenuity and technology, that's what i like to see!
I have tried 2.25, 2.5 and 3.0", and the 3.0" has produced the most power by far. This came from info garnered from a partnership with a rally team in Barbados. I tried it to see if they were right, and so far, it seems they were.
Even more interesting - we were originally thinking we would have the switch user and RPM actuated to save torque at low RPM then open it for higher RPM horsepower. The testing with the valve open produces more torque than with the valve closed! That's across the entire rev range.
It is a lot of fun doing all of the testing - sometimes the surprises you find make no sense at all, but that's why you do all of the testing then, isn't it?
Randy
Even more interesting - we were originally thinking we would have the switch user and RPM actuated to save torque at low RPM then open it for higher RPM horsepower. The testing with the valve open produces more torque than with the valve closed! That's across the entire rev range.
It is a lot of fun doing all of the testing - sometimes the surprises you find make no sense at all, but that's why you do all of the testing then, isn't it?
Randy
yea I really look forward to seeing this exhaust. I just can't see anything else being better from any stand point. I would love to hear the dam the thing though!
Randy, just my .02 I think just by the reaction on this site your going to go through those first ten in a matter of hours!

Can't Wait to see your fine work!

Randy, just my .02 I think just by the reaction on this site your going to go through those first ten in a matter of hours!
Can't Wait to see your fine work!
Originally Posted by ChiliCooperS
SpiderX I think some pics/videos are in order!!!




Mikey




Mikey
looks very good...how come so many pieces? ease of shipping? are the joints band clamped? (I would hope so). finally, what exactly is gained by increasing the tube size of the tips...or is that a cosmetic thing?
Originally Posted by RandyBMC
I have tried 2.25, 2.5 and 3.0", and the 3.0" has produced the most power by far. This came from info garnered from a partnership with a rally team in Barbados. I tried it to see if they were right, and so far, it seems they were.
Even more interesting - we were originally thinking we would have the switch user and RPM actuated to save torque at low RPM then open it for higher RPM horsepower. The testing with the valve open produces more torque than with the valve closed! That's across the entire rev range.
It is a lot of fun doing all of the testing - sometimes the surprises you find make no sense at all, but that's why you do all of the testing then, isn't it?
Randy
Even more interesting - we were originally thinking we would have the switch user and RPM actuated to save torque at low RPM then open it for higher RPM horsepower. The testing with the valve open produces more torque than with the valve closed! That's across the entire rev range.
It is a lot of fun doing all of the testing - sometimes the surprises you find make no sense at all, but that's why you do all of the testing then, isn't it?
Randy
http://www.badlanzhpe.com/page6.html
I copied and pasted some of it:
- [Quote] The difference is the opening for a 3-inch pipe can only achieve a 2 5/8 inch butterfly.
I went to my engineer and he designed the flange adapter so I could achieve a full 3-inch opening, using a 3 1/2 inch butterfly. This way I am achieving full 3 inch opening without "bottlenecking" the system. Plus the flange adapters will work on any size pipe so all sizes will have “FULL FLOW”.
If you look at the pictures, it all make sense, if you can gain 3/8" by using a 3 1/2" butterfly, I think it might be worth testing, when you said you had tested different size pipe, maybe a 2 1/2" with a 3" butterfly would gain as much as the 3" who knows, I'm not in a position for experimenting but I thought I'd point that out since I'll be buying that system
.
I'm not sure which size butterfly is being used, but I'm wondering myself whatever happened to back pressure?? 3" exhaust with dual exits... that's REALLY low back pressure, no? Like you said, it truly is fascinating
! I'd love to hear why this exhaust makes power, because I'm totally clueless how it has any backpressure at all with the butterfly open (!!!). Is there a non-secret reason? Looks like a great part anyways, Randy! If only you still lived in Wellington, I'd come over and hear/see it myself!
! I'd love to hear why this exhaust makes power, because I'm totally clueless how it has any backpressure at all with the butterfly open (!!!). Is there a non-secret reason? Looks like a great part anyways, Randy! If only you still lived in Wellington, I'd come over and hear/see it myself!
Originally Posted by jlm
looks very good...how come so many pieces? ease of shipping? are the joints band clamped? (I would hope so). finally, what exactly is gained by increasing the tube size of the tips...or is that a cosmetic thing?
The tips are just cosmetic - they are dual three inchers.
The system is different after the Y - we have optimized the sizing without the cut-out, then used the correct cutout size.
Whatever happened to backpressure? Well, there still is some, and there are different ways of controlling it with tubing sizing. With forced induction, it becomes important to keep up with the intake side of things, so it is not as crucial as it with a normally aspirated system.
Hope that helps!
Randy
I just can't wait to see it on/hear it!
impatient:impatient 


The rear swaybar looks pretty tight. How are some of the other products you are testing?? I hear the Larini header your testing, is the Milltek stil better??
Chili
BTW Randy your pm box is full I can't pm you!
impatient:impatient 


The rear swaybar looks pretty tight. How are some of the other products you are testing?? I hear the Larini header your testing, is the Milltek stil better??
Chili
BTW Randy your pm box is full I can't pm you!
Yeah, pm's here are bad - try my site or email, or even better, call us at 303-683-4424.
I'll post a vendor announcement soon on all of the parts we are working on...
Thanks!
Randy
PS - I am at the shop and just realized I posted under Brian's log-in. Sorry about that!
I'll post a vendor announcement soon on all of the parts we are working on...
Thanks!
Randy
PS - I am at the shop and just realized I posted under Brian's log-in. Sorry about that!


