Drivetrain Where can I upgrade my S in NJ??????
greatgro,
Did you talk to the BMWCCA local chapter? They probably know of a good hot-rod shop. I have all the parts you would need though
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
Did you talk to the BMWCCA local chapter? They probably know of a good hot-rod shop. I have all the parts you would need though
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
Up in Ho-ho-kus, there is Rogue Engineering Rogue Engineering
They do an intake for the S, and have more products in development. I had an exhaust installed on my Cooper from them. Nice guys. Have also met the guys from Helix as mentioned above, good guys as well.
-Dan
They do an intake for the S, and have more products in development. I had an exhaust installed on my Cooper from them. Nice guys. Have also met the guys from Helix as mentioned above, good guys as well.
-Dan
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Oh geeze, just an intake??!?!?! Seriously, it's as easy as mods go. One hose clamps and two screws. It's *that* easy. I'd be happy to give you my cell number if you need help. Just PM me.
I know Randy(BMC) and I would be happy to help you get that installed. Honestly, it will maybe take you 20 minutes, max.
R
I know Randy(BMC) and I would be happy to help you get that installed. Honestly, it will maybe take you 20 minutes, max.
R
>>>>What kind of "upgrades"? You don't look like the type to worry about some dirty hands....just do it yourself! :smile:
greatgro,
Even the monkey did an intake. Less than 15 minutes.
I think it is harder to Armor All the tires...give it a shot.
Probably everyone should take a look at their air filter
anyway. When I did the intake mine was filthy with only
~4500 miles. I can't believe 10,000 miles is the first
service.
greatgro,
Even the monkey did an intake. Less than 15 minutes.
I think it is harder to Armor All the tires...give it a shot.
Probably everyone should take a look at their air filter
anyway. When I did the intake mine was filthy with only
~4500 miles. I can't believe 10,000 miles is the first
service.
>>>>What kind of "upgrades"? You don't look like the type to worry about some dirty hands....just do it yourself! :smile:
OK greatgro. Here is how it works.
Step 1. Get a small standard screwdriver, a #25 torx (it looks kinda like a screw driver), and an 8mm wrench.
Step 2. Remove the top of the airbox. Here's how. Unscrew the two #25 torx screws at the front of the filter. Unclip the battery terminal from the left side of the airbox and slide it off - don't be afraid of it - you may have to use a little force to get it to slide all the way off of the lower clip. Undo the hose clamp on the airbox by using the small screwdriver, fitting the blade of the screwdriver into the crimp and popping it up; it then just pulls apart. Now pull the airbox up about a mm, then back until you have the room to pull it out.
Step 3. Remove the top bolt to the left of the airbox that holds the rear partition in place with the 8mm wrench (use a ratchet if you have one, it's quicker).
Step 4. Fit the Madness filter (which I can supply you) onto the lower part of the airbox. It fits perfectly, so there isn't a big struggle to do this.
Step 5. Attach the new heat shield forward mounts with the two #25 screws you removed earlier.
Step 6. Attach the rubber intake hose onto the new intake and tighten the clamp provided by the intake manufacturer (this is to replace the clamp you pulled off of the old airbox cover).
Step 7. Attach the rear of the heat shield using the 8mm bolt you removed from the partition.
Step 8. Slip the battery terminal onto the new heat shield - this is very easy.
Step 9. Start it up and listen for any intake leaks (a hissing sound).
Step 10. Shut your bonnet and DRIVE!
Read through these instructions while looking at the intake. It will make you realize just how easy this is. If you have any other questions, or to place an order, give me a call or post it here. I'd be glad to help.
Here is a shot of the finished product. You can see the 8mm bolt on the rear of the heat shield, as well as one of the two #25 torx screws at the front of the new intake. This shot also shows the new hose clamp in place.

Randy Webb
Owner, MINI-Motorsport
720-841-1002
randy@mini-motorsport.com
_________________



MINI-Motorsport
OK greatgro. Here is how it works.
Step 1. Get a small standard screwdriver, a #25 torx (it looks kinda like a screw driver), and an 8mm wrench.
Step 2. Remove the top of the airbox. Here's how. Unscrew the two #25 torx screws at the front of the filter. Unclip the battery terminal from the left side of the airbox and slide it off - don't be afraid of it - you may have to use a little force to get it to slide all the way off of the lower clip. Undo the hose clamp on the airbox by using the small screwdriver, fitting the blade of the screwdriver into the crimp and popping it up; it then just pulls apart. Now pull the airbox up about a mm, then back until you have the room to pull it out.
Step 3. Remove the top bolt to the left of the airbox that holds the rear partition in place with the 8mm wrench (use a ratchet if you have one, it's quicker).
Step 4. Fit the Madness filter (which I can supply you) onto the lower part of the airbox. It fits perfectly, so there isn't a big struggle to do this.
Step 5. Attach the new heat shield forward mounts with the two #25 screws you removed earlier.
Step 6. Attach the rubber intake hose onto the new intake and tighten the clamp provided by the intake manufacturer (this is to replace the clamp you pulled off of the old airbox cover).
Step 7. Attach the rear of the heat shield using the 8mm bolt you removed from the partition.
Step 8. Slip the battery terminal onto the new heat shield - this is very easy.
Step 9. Start it up and listen for any intake leaks (a hissing sound).
Step 10. Shut your bonnet and DRIVE!
Read through these instructions while looking at the intake. It will make you realize just how easy this is. If you have any other questions, or to place an order, give me a call or post it here. I'd be glad to help.
Here is a shot of the finished product. You can see the 8mm bolt on the rear of the heat shield, as well as one of the two #25 torx screws at the front of the new intake. This shot also shows the new hose clamp in place.

Randy Webb
Owner, MINI-Motorsport
720-841-1002
randy@mini-motorsport.com
_________________
MINI-Motorsport
Airbox is an easy install.
Same here, PM me, I'll be happy to give you my cell # and walk you through the install also. I live in apartment complex and I did mine after work in the parking garage. I got a few weird looks but that's normal when you drive a Mini !
Kesh
Same here, PM me, I'll be happy to give you my cell # and walk you through the install also. I live in apartment complex and I did mine after work in the parking garage. I got a few weird looks but that's normal when you drive a Mini !
Kesh
Thanks for all your help guys! You're making this decision easy! ONe question though. What happens after you do the new intake and go to MINI for servicing? Will I have to keep changing the air filter myself? And if so, how often or after how many miles will I have to change it?
Thanks guys, you've been great! And Randy, I really appreciate you laying out the steps. I'll definitely buy from you!
Thanks guys, you've been great! And Randy, I really appreciate you laying out the steps. I'll definitely buy from you!
I already have 10,000 miles on my Rogue intake
I cleaned mine with 7,000 miles on the intake. Not so much because it needed it (could have easily left it to 10,000), but more because it was a nice day. You will either need to take most of the day for the cleaning or reinstall the factory airbox if you need the car to drive around in.
Cleaning is pretty simple. The only time consuming part is you have to let the filter airdry after rinsing out the cleaner. If you try to accellerate the drying process with a dryer you'll stretch the cotten elements in the filter. So let it air dry. Then oil the filter and reinstall. Pretty easy. Just follow the instructions on the cleaner and oil that come with the filter.
I cleaned mine with 7,000 miles on the intake. Not so much because it needed it (could have easily left it to 10,000), but more because it was a nice day. You will either need to take most of the day for the cleaning or reinstall the factory airbox if you need the car to drive around in.
Cleaning is pretty simple. The only time consuming part is you have to let the filter airdry after rinsing out the cleaner. If you try to accellerate the drying process with a dryer you'll stretch the cotten elements in the filter. So let it air dry. Then oil the filter and reinstall. Pretty easy. Just follow the instructions on the cleaner and oil that come with the filter.
That's one of the great things about these filters (the Pipercross, the BMP, and the Rogue/Madness), they are reusable!
All of the filters do require oil - that's how they trap the dirt. They need to be oiled every 5-10,000 miles, depending on where you drive and how dusty it is. The color of the filter is the best indicator. When it's a white color, it hasn't been oiled. If it's pink, it is oiled and clean. When it turns a dark greyish red, it needs to be
cleaned and reoiled.
Dave had a good recommendation not to dry the filter artificially. The steps in cleaning are simple. Remove the filter, spray the filter evenly with the cleaner, let soak for instructed amount of time, rinse with water, let air dry, reapply oil by spraying evenly until the color has returned to the nice, even, pink - reinstall element.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
All of the filters do require oil - that's how they trap the dirt. They need to be oiled every 5-10,000 miles, depending on where you drive and how dusty it is. The color of the filter is the best indicator. When it's a white color, it hasn't been oiled. If it's pink, it is oiled and clean. When it turns a dark greyish red, it needs to be
cleaned and reoiled.
Dave had a good recommendation not to dry the filter artificially. The steps in cleaning are simple. Remove the filter, spray the filter evenly with the cleaner, let soak for instructed amount of time, rinse with water, let air dry, reapply oil by spraying evenly until the color has returned to the nice, even, pink - reinstall element.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
>>Hi Greatgro,
>>
>>Didn't you say previously that you leased your MINI? If so, are you allowed to make any performance mods?
Such things as exhausts and intakes won't matter on a leased car. I've leased before and my mantra was that if it could be bolted on/removed easily, it was a go. If it did permanent alterations to the car, no. But even I broke my own rules and put in an aluminum dash on the Miata I leased. You get no value for them unless you sell the car yourself instead of turning it in. Now engine internals, chips, etc....NO WAY!!

R
>>
>>Didn't you say previously that you leased your MINI? If so, are you allowed to make any performance mods?
Such things as exhausts and intakes won't matter on a leased car. I've leased before and my mantra was that if it could be bolted on/removed easily, it was a go. If it did permanent alterations to the car, no. But even I broke my own rules and put in an aluminum dash on the Miata I leased. You get no value for them unless you sell the car yourself instead of turning it in. Now engine internals, chips, etc....NO WAY!!

R
"Seriously though. I'd be more than willing to bet that there isn't a mod out there right now we couldn't walk you thru complete with pictures and step by step instructions."...Davbret
there are definitely a few trouble spots: try degree-ing in a cam or putting in a new differential. some of this takes more know-how and experience than you might imagine. I have a great deal of respect for the mechanic who makes a living out of this kind of work; there is no way you can write it all down.
there are definitely a few trouble spots: try degree-ing in a cam or putting in a new differential. some of this takes more know-how and experience than you might imagine. I have a great deal of respect for the mechanic who makes a living out of this kind of work; there is no way you can write it all down.
True, true. But a picture is worth a thousand words. On tough installs, I put up pictures to explain a lot of the steps.
I think the key to most of the tough stuff is the right tools.
I plan on doing a flywheel in the not-too-distant future, and I'll document it and post a how to when it's finished (of course if you're in Denver you aren't allowed to read it - you have to come to me for the installs
).
Thanks to Dave in Denver, by the way, for all of the great photography.
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
I think the key to most of the tough stuff is the right tools.
I plan on doing a flywheel in the not-too-distant future, and I'll document it and post a how to when it's finished (of course if you're in Denver you aren't allowed to read it - you have to come to me for the installs
).Thanks to Dave in Denver, by the way, for all of the great photography.
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
Rogue Engineering (MINI AfterMarket Performance Products) had this to say about a good source in NJ/NY for Body Shop work, if that is what you seek:
http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merc...gory_Code=BODY
http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merc...gory_Code=BODY
DINAN is planning a whole mess of upgrades for both Cooper models and I know there is a Dinan dealer in norht Jersey. Give it a few months and they will have 50 state legal kits of various states of tune available with great warranty coverage. (so I have heard)
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