Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain I have a big problem please help!

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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:41 PM
  #1  
warchieft2k's Avatar
warchieft2k
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I have a big problem please help!

my mini is giving me a check engine light and getting really hot after i installed my 19% pulley!

here is a little back ground:
mods:
alta intake
pilo coil pack cables and spark plugs
alta intercooler diverter
magna flow exhaust
light weight crank pully


now about 3 weeks ago i installed the 19% pullay form alta and the belt...

if i drive normal reving to about 5k rpm the mini work perfect or at least i see no problems...

now the minute i race someone and i rev up to like 6k 6.5k rpm my check engine light turn on and i feel my car not being as fast... and i beggin to smell coolant... so i open the hood and i have a small lick/spray of coolant by the coolant tank... which makes me thing the car is getting too hot...

i was told by a freind that this is b/c of too much boost not enough gas at top end... so the car gets lean and over heats... he recommended bigger injectors and an ECU upgrade.

it happenned to me 2 times and i havent puched it anymore i dont wanna mess anything up...

IS MY FREIND RIGHT?
IS THIS NORMAL WITH THE 19% PULLEY?
WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?
WHAT SHOULD I DO?


THANKS
CArlos
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:50 PM
  #2  
Kendel72's Avatar
Kendel72
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I am not a mechanic but I have always been told you have to go bigger injectors with the 19%.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 01:02 PM
  #3  
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Brain1.0
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It could also be the 19% at those rpm's are spinning the water pump too fast creating cavitation and then overheating. I am not sure on this but this is what Ihave heard/read. But it does make sence since it doesnt do it at lower rpm's.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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onasled
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Before you go too crazy, I see you have an '03. Did you ever have the radiator expansion tank upgraded? Not sure if it's all '03s, but I know it's at least the earlier ones.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 02:03 PM
  #5  
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minihune
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
Originally Posted by warchieft2k
my mini is giving me a check engine light and getting really hot after i installed my 19% pulley!

here is a little back ground:
mods:
alta intake
pilo coil pack cables and spark plugs
alta intercooler diverter
magna flow exhaust
light weight crank pully

CArlos
Carlos,
Aloha and welcome to NAM. Sorry to hear about your check engine light coming on. That is usually a sign of a problem. Reading the code would be a good place to start. How do you get the light to turn off? Just restart the engine and it goes off or not? Usually if the problem is gone then by restarting your engine (sometimes multiple times) you can get the light to go off.

If the code shows an engine cylinder missfire then try using a stock coil and spark plug wire set and running your car without the pilo ignition upgrades. Check the spark plugs as well, check that they are all ok and tight.

Driving up to 6000 rpm should not be a problem with your MINI with 19% pulley. Going to redline isn't good and should be avoided whenever possible. Otherwise you run the risk of over-reving the engine and going into "limp" mode with reduced rpms and a lack of power.

Look at your engine temp gauge and if it is showing in the middle range you are OK on coolant. Sometimes coolant will leak out of the top of the bottle so clean it up and check if it is leaking when you drive regularly, if so then get the coolant bottle replaced under warranty.

You might try calling Eric at Helix13.com (1-877-HELIX13) and ask about larger 380cc fuel injectors and GIAC software for the 19% pulley upgrade.

For now just drive up to 6000 rpm and you should be OK.

For those with pulley upgrades, larger throttlebody, and exhaust headers sometimes the check engine light goes on at the track on a regular basis as the O2 sensor in the header trips the light. It can usually be reset easily.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 02:23 PM
  #6  
warchieft2k's Avatar
warchieft2k
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Originally Posted by onasled
Before you go too crazy, I see you have an '03. Did you ever have the radiator expansion tank upgraded? Not sure if it's all '03s, but I know it's at least the earlier ones.
what do you mean?????? i didnt know about the expansion tank? how do i get it and from where?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 02:34 PM
  #7  
GBMINI's Avatar
GBMINI
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From: Gloucester, MA, USA
Originally Posted by warchieft2k
what do you mean?????? i didnt know about the expansion tank? how do i get it and from where?
Do a search and you will find answers ... for example:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=5532
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 02:38 PM
  #8  
warchieft2k's Avatar
warchieft2k
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by minihune
Carlos,
Aloha and welcome to NAM. Sorry to hear about your check engine light coming on. That is usually a sign of a problem. Reading the code would be a good place to start. How do you get the light to turn off? Just restart the engine and it goes off or not? Usually if the problem is gone then by restarting your engine (sometimes multiple times) you can get the light to go off.

If the code shows an engine cylinder missfire then try using a stock coil and spark plug wire set and running your car without the pilo ignition upgrades. Check the spark plugs as well, check that they are all ok and tight.

Driving up to 6000 rpm should not be a problem with your MINI with 19% pulley. Going to redline isn't good and should be avoided whenever possible. Otherwise you run the risk of over-reving the engine and going into "limp" mode with reduced rpms and a lack of power.

Look at your engine temp gauge and if it is showing in the middle range you are OK on coolant. Sometimes coolant will leak out of the top of the bottle so clean it up and check if it is leaking when you drive regularly, if so then get the coolant bottle replaced under warranty.

You might try calling Eric at Helix13.com (1-877-HELIX13) and ask about larger 380cc fuel injectors and GIAC software for the 19% pulley upgrade.

For now just drive up to 6000 rpm and you should be OK.

For those with pulley upgrades, larger throttlebody, and exhaust headers sometimes the check engine light goes on at the track on a regular basis as the O2 sensor in the header trips the light. It can usually be reset easily.
thanks alot! i check the spark and it good my cables are new and i got the iridium sparks plugs from ngk they are about a week old... and it did it last with all that installed...

now the post bofore yours mention somehting about an expantion tank???? where can i get that from?

and finally... im looking at the M7 400cc injectors do you think the helix kits with 380cc is a better buy? but im not too sure i want to spend money on the ECU upgrade... i would like to complete all my modifications so i can get the upgrade to work with everything i have and not have to sent it back over and over....

how about and oil cooler and a bigger radiator?

thanks guys!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #9  
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minihune
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
Originally Posted by warchieft2k
thanks alot! i check the spark and it good my cables are new and i got the iridium sparks plugs from ngk they are about a week old... and it did it last with all that installed...

now the post bofore yours mention somehting about an expantion tank???? where can i get that from?

and finally... im looking at the M7 400cc injectors do you think the helix kits with 380cc is a better buy? but im not too sure i want to spend money on the ECU upgrade... i would like to complete all my modifications so i can get the upgrade to work with everything i have and not have to sent it back over and over....

how about and oil cooler and a bigger radiator?

thanks guys!
Again, look at the code for the check engine light. Checkers will read the code for you for free if you can find them in your area. The code will tell you the reason for the light rather than guessing.

Unless your engine temp gauge is showing above the middle level I don't think your general engine temp is the problem so an oil cooler or bigger radiator is not going to be necessary. At least it hasn't been needed for other MCS with 19% pulley alone.

ECU software upgrades for the 19% work with the larger fuel injectors. It makes no sense to upgrade the fuel injectors and run a stock ECU program since the ECU will not take (full) advantage of the larger injectors. Also, if the ECU program is not tuned for the 19% or for the larger fuel injectors it may not give you any added benefit.

You can upgrade the injectors using M7 revalved 400 cc injectors or new factory Siemens injectors through Helix13. Helix13 recommends the GIAC for 19% software which recommend using new factory injectors rather than revalved ones. M7 injectors require a core deposit so that the used injectors can be returned. No core deposit for the new Helix13 injectors.

So your options are:
-Find the code for the check engine light- let it guide you to the source of the problem and fix it.
-See your dealership for the coolant leak problem if you see that it leaks on a daily basis with regular driving. They will replace the coolant container and hopefully that will eliminate the leak. The leak is not the source of your problem with the check engine light.
-In addition to the 19% pulley you need to decide if you want to:
Leave it at that- add nothing more.
Add both larger injectors and an ECU program optimized for the 19% pulley/injector upgrade such as what Helix13 offers.
Add M7 injectors and find an ECU program (not GIAC) that will work with it and your 19% pulley.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 02:58 PM
  #10  
warchieft2k's Avatar
warchieft2k
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From: Miami, FL
thanks minihune!

i will follow your advice! i have a freind how has the code checker so i will give him a call se when i can pass by his shop... question do i have to have the check engine light on to be able to get the right code?
im calling helix right now for pricing!

thanks again!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 03:32 PM
  #11  
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minihune
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
Originally Posted by warchieft2k
thanks minihune!

i will follow your advice! i have a freind how has the code checker so i will give him a call se when i can pass by his shop... question do i have to have the check engine light on to be able to get the right code?
im calling helix right now for pricing!

thanks again!
Normally if the check engine light comes on it will send the code and you can retrieve it later unless it is cleared. If you check for the code and find none then it is nothing serious but at least you checked for it. If you can read the code even if the light is off now then that gives you more information.

When you talk to Eric at Helix13 mention about the check engine light and reading of codes.

There are several threads on NAM about what the codes mean or you can post the code and we can try to look it up.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 06:56 PM
  #12  
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greatgro
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Warchieft2k, Here's the scoop - I know EXACTLY what's going on here. You actually have TWO separate issues going on here. The FIRST thing is a boost thing. It's NOT BAD - it's just that there is no data for a very high boost level. At around 18lbs of boost, depending on your MINI either your DSC light will come on or your SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will come on. It is just a simple error code - the DSC will clear the next time you start the car and the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will take 3 starts to clear. Don't worry about it. The only reason it is happening is b/c it's winter and you're getting higher boost levels with the colder temps.

Originally Posted by onasled
Did you ever have the radiator expansion tank upgraded? Not sure if it's all '03s, but I know it's at least the earlier ones.
This is the SECOND issue and is NOT related to the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. The radiator expansion tanks leak. ALL the original ones will eventually. I have mine replaced twice early on. Some people have had them replaced FOUR or more times! This IS NOT a pulley-related issue. You'll want to take it to a dealer and get a new tank under warranty.

As for feeling that it's losing power after the light goes on, honestly, I think it's in your head. You're probably just afraid that somethings wrong and you're going to blow your engine.

As for the GIAC ECU upgrade and larger injectors, I couldn't recommend them higher. Yes you will not only increase power but you will also do it with more safety with the upgrade. That said, you DON'T NEED it to run safely with the 19%. Here's a link to more info about the upgrade: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=35752
 
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 06:15 PM
  #13  
warchieft2k's Avatar
warchieft2k
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Thanks... that makes sence! i got the same information from Eric from Helix13!

thanks for all the help

again you guys are great

I will be replacing the collant tank... and i will be getting the helix injector ECU upgrade as well! hopefully soon!

CArlos
 
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 06:55 AM
  #14  
andy@ross-tech.com's Avatar
andy@ross-tech.com
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From: Lansdale, PA
A turkey baster and a clean jar help with the coolant tank swap.
 
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