Drivetrain Which Supercharger Pulley?
Which Supercharger Pulley?
I’ve done some reading and looking at upgrades. My 06 MCS will be for club rallies, occasional track use and some daily driving.
I plan to put in a Street cam, Alta CAI, and single mass clutch.
Trying to decide which supercharger pulley to go with. 15% is safe, but looking at 16 and 17.
I read that the 16 and 17 get the supercharger too hot.
is there evidence of that and what do you recommend?
I plan to put in a Street cam, Alta CAI, and single mass clutch.
Trying to decide which supercharger pulley to go with. 15% is safe, but looking at 16 and 17.
I read that the 16 and 17 get the supercharger too hot.
is there evidence of that and what do you recommend?
Heat will be your biggest issue, hence the question of the intercooler upgrade. With the 11% JCW pulley and the stock intercooler, IATs rise quite fast with normal spirited driving (is my experience).
I recently picked up an ‘05 mcs with the aftermarket JCW package after 10 years of having no MINI. Only thing missing is the injectors. I’m planning on the 20% pulley from KAVS plus I threw on a 2% overdrive Alta crank pulley. My drives are all freeway during the week. Why did everyone quit making the lower reduction pulleys? Everyone scared of them or don’t trust themselves to stay away from high rpms?
Im planning 20% pulley, cam, intercooler and 380s then a tune from Detroit tuned.
There’s an M7 DFIC in my state for sale BUT FOR THE $500 tag, I’m weary. Please feel free to chime in.
At what point will my s/c blow up with this pulley? I’ll be at essentially a 22% reduction.
Im planning 20% pulley, cam, intercooler and 380s then a tune from Detroit tuned.
There’s an M7 DFIC in my state for sale BUT FOR THE $500 tag, I’m weary. Please feel free to chime in.
At what point will my s/c blow up with this pulley? I’ll be at essentially a 22% reduction.
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I believe at a certain point it doesnt make sense anymore, due to inefficiencies from the Eaton M45.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercharger
Also see this info from Eaton themselves. If you know the RPM you will make with 22% reduction, you can also check how efficient the M45 will be. If you are searching for bigger power, then the TVS supercharger is probably a better bet.

Source: https://www.superchargerforums.com/t...essor-maps.94/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercharger
Roots blowers tend to be only 40–50% efficient at high boost levels; by contrast, centrifugal (dynamic) superchargers are 70–85% efficient at high boost.
These use two variables, pressure ratio and the air volume flowing into the supercharger. Pressure ratio determines boost, as these things multiply pressure, rather than adding it. If atmospheric pressure is 14.7:1 psi (it varies with altitude and weather conditions), a 1.5:1 pressure ratio would be 22.05 psi absolute pressure. Subtracting the original 14.7 psi gives you 7.35 psi boost.
The other variable is the inlet flow rate. It's given here in cubic meters per hour. Multiply that by 0.59, and you get cubic feet per minute.
Finding the point where these two meet, and the blue rings show adiabatic efficiency (the higher the number, the less it heats up the incoming air). The dashed green lines show how fast you have to spin the blower to get that number.
The other variable is the inlet flow rate. It's given here in cubic meters per hour. Multiply that by 0.59, and you get cubic feet per minute.
Finding the point where these two meet, and the blue rings show adiabatic efficiency (the higher the number, the less it heats up the incoming air). The dashed green lines show how fast you have to spin the blower to get that number.
One more thing to remember....there's an oil pump burried in the timing chain cover at the crank pulley. Adding a non-dampened smaller crank pulley you are directly effecting that and the life of the crank bearings as well. Undampened vibrations at the crank from a pulley like that will damage the bearings.
With respect to the -20% s/c pulley question.....Why we don't use them has to do with their efficiency; boost / power gains of smaller than -17% pulley, the higher intake temps they impose from using it and abiltiy of any intercooler to dissipate that additional heat so potentional power gains are not lost during atomization of fuel/combustion. ( cooler / denser air = more power ) Basically speaking any boost gains of a pulley smaller than -17% are lost so in the long run just making parts work harder for nothing while reducing their life expectancy.
One more thing to remember....there's an oil pump burried in the timing chain cover at the crank pulley. Adding a non-dampened smaller crank pulley you are directly effecting that and the life of the crank bearings as well. Undampened vibrations at the crank from a pulley like that will damage the bearings.
One more thing to remember....there's an oil pump burried in the timing chain cover at the crank pulley. Adding a non-dampened smaller crank pulley you are directly effecting that and the life of the crank bearings as well. Undampened vibrations at the crank from a pulley like that will damage the bearings.
Also very true, a non-dampened crank "pulley" is a bad thing waiting to happen.
Mike
With respect to the -20% s/c pulley question.....Why we don't use them has to do with their efficiency; boost / power gains of smaller than -17% pulley, the higher intake temps they impose from using it and abiltiy of any intercooler to dissipate that additional heat so potentional power gains are not lost during atomization of fuel/combustion. ( cooler / denser air = more power ) Basically speaking any boost gains of a pulley smaller than -17% are lost so in the long run just making parts work harder for nothing while reducing their life expectancy.
One more thing to remember....there's an oil pump burried in the timing chain cover at the crank pulley. Adding a non-dampened smaller crank pulley you are directly effecting that and the life of the crank bearings as well. Undampened vibrations at the crank from a pulley like that will damage the bearings.
One more thing to remember....there's an oil pump burried in the timing chain cover at the crank pulley. Adding a non-dampened smaller crank pulley you are directly effecting that and the life of the crank bearings as well. Undampened vibrations at the crank from a pulley like that will damage the bearings.
Undampened crank pulley = death to the W-11 engine. That pulley was designed for a dedicated track car only using 3-4 gears for short track use. The lack of inertia on the crank from the weight of stock pulley or one of similar weight is also very noticible on the highway getting on/off the gas pedal too...the lighter one takes more time to recoup torque that quickly in gear 5 and 6.
GL !!
I ended up going with the CS 17% so essentially I’m at a 19% with my crank. And yes I know all the buzz around the crank pulley. Less than a dozen provable failures vs tons of installed with no issues. My IATs with the 19% will be monitored this week. Let’s see how it does going thru my new M7 DFIC.
For the lightweight crank pulley I can tell you for a fact from experience that the lightweight crank pulley will damage the engine bearings among other issues so you should seriously consider removing it and going with a real damper.
Since you said you are going to install an M7 DFIC you should do some data logging on your current intake temps, then do the logging after installing it. I did a ton of data logging with the M7 intercooler vs stock vs GP on my personal race car years ago and actually found the M7 was by far the worse. Not only do you get a boost drop due to volume, the flat bottom of it just holds heat and increases intake temps. The stock intercooler actually worked better to many peoples surprise as the M7 at the time was about $1000. The GP by far beat them both, but then cost went up to $1500 and it's just hard to justify unless it's a full blown track car.
Ditto ^^^
And for a mostly stock MINI with just a pulley, from the standpoint of bang for the buck and intercooler heat soak recovery ...One is probably better off using the stock intercooler, then adding a DDM works or ALTA intercooler diverter in conjunction with a larger scoop....
And for a mostly stock MINI with just a pulley, from the standpoint of bang for the buck and intercooler heat soak recovery ...One is probably better off using the stock intercooler, then adding a DDM works or ALTA intercooler diverter in conjunction with a larger scoop....
If you want to go with 19% I have no problem with that, but it's going to loose you power at high rpm do to over boost and heat build. But at lower rpm it's not an issue as it really comes down to use.
For the lightweight crank pulley I can tell you for a fact from experience that the lightweight crank pulley will damage the engine bearings among other issues so you should seriously consider removing it and going with a real damper.
Since you said you are going to install an M7 DFIC you should do some data logging on your current intake temps, then do the logging after installing it. I did a ton of data logging with the M7 intercooler vs stock vs GP on my personal race car years ago and actually found the M7 was by far the worse. Not only do you get a boost drop due to volume, the flat bottom of it just holds heat and increases intake temps. The stock intercooler actually worked better to many peoples surprise as the M7 at the time was about $1000. The GP by far beat them both, but then cost went up to $1500 and it's just hard to justify unless it's a full blown track car.
For the lightweight crank pulley I can tell you for a fact from experience that the lightweight crank pulley will damage the engine bearings among other issues so you should seriously consider removing it and going with a real damper.
Since you said you are going to install an M7 DFIC you should do some data logging on your current intake temps, then do the logging after installing it. I did a ton of data logging with the M7 intercooler vs stock vs GP on my personal race car years ago and actually found the M7 was by far the worse. Not only do you get a boost drop due to volume, the flat bottom of it just holds heat and increases intake temps. The stock intercooler actually worked better to many peoples surprise as the M7 at the time was about $1000. The GP by far beat them both, but then cost went up to $1500 and it's just hard to justify unless it's a full blown track car.
Currently working on the data logging. As soon as I put on the V2 M7 I disagreed with almost everyone on the forums. This sucker pulls and does not have boost pressure drop off. Maybe it was a “Wednesday IC build”??
More low end torque and it doesn’t stop pulling thru to redline. Stock intercooler did not do that. It’s hard to explain but you for sure know something better happened to the car. Breathing better? Colder air? More boost from the M7. I will try to put together some numbers after logging.
To the crank pulley, if she goes I’m ok with it. It’ll give me a reason to build the motor. I’ve been around these cars from the start and seen a lot of both sides of the story. People used to say and will still say twin charge doesn’t work because Chris blew his engine but that worked. And the guy I ended up selling the kit too worked great and strong too. Just gotta roll the dice.
Way what do you recommend for damper aside from stock? No oversized at all? How long will a rebuilt motor go on a non dampened crank pulley? 10k... 50k...
Also getting back on topic, I like the 17% sc pulley in conjunction with the Alta 2% overdriven non dampened thus far. Pulley size depends on a lot of what supporting mods you have. I wish someone had a 19% that could easily be swapped on the way CS and WMW does with the 15 and 17. Any lying around Way?
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