Just Had RPM Motorsports do a stage 2 Tune on my 2010 R56 S. Worked fine for 2 days and then Car fell flat on it face pulling out into traffic. Seems to cut out at 3000RPM and above. I checked all the inter cooler piping from turbo to throttle body all tight no leaks. I replaced the solenoid on the turbo with a new one I Had on the shelf. Same problem. Any thoughts where i should check now? Never had a boost drop off like this before.

I would check for codes, check diverter valve, plugs (gapping) coil packs, HPFP and where the charge pipe meets the throttle body.
Mario
mQubed Motorsport
RPM Power Tuning

I installed new plugs and coils today same problem, even put the set i took out back in. They ran fine for two days piror . HPFP is oem With 6k on it. I pulled all the piping apart and reseated all the connections and tighened everything down tight. Tomorrow Ill pick up a new Boost pressure converter and see if that helps. Also no trouble codes

Check your codes, current and pending

Also doubtful that this is an issue with the tune. The tune will make your existing problems shine.

There are no codes, present or pending. I have checked and recheck for boost leaks...none. car will pull 23.9 psi right up to 3000 rpm's and then drop to 3.9 psi. When it drops below 3000 boost comes right back.

RPM motorsport is thinking its a tune issue. They want to reflash it. 10,000 miles on built motor before new tune never a boost issue

That's strange. I guess send the ECU back.

This is way more boost than you should be seeing on a Stage 2 tune. Do you have an aftermarket DV at all? Is it an automatic trans or a manual? MCS or JCW? Sounds to me like the car is overboosting and is either opening the DV or wastegate to compensate or save itself from blowing up.

I have a JCW turbo installed and its an Automatic. Its has a DV+ diverter valve installed. This Morning I replaced he DV+ with a Brand new OEM diverter valve and a new Oem Vacuum pump. Problem is now gone. Boost is strong all the way to redline now.

Interesting. I've been reading more issues with the DV+ as of recently...

A friend of mine also had a DV+ that cause crazy overboosting issues when he got tuned. I’ve always been convinced there is no reason to switch from the stock DV. Yours and his stories just further my assumption.

Also, the automatic transmissions on these cars have longer gears than the manuals, which puts more load on the engine and also makes them overboost. If you weren’t asked if you had an auto or a manual when you got tuned I would contact your dealer and ask their opinion on the matter.

This has been popping up a lot lately. Haven’t seen any issues with the forge unit. And didn’t scotty_r56s just crack his stock divertor valve on 20 psi?

Yeah, he did. I've been happy with my Forge valve - runs pretty solid. I just don't like all the extra tubes and wires in the engine bay. I need to find a better layout for the vacuum hoses and solenoid.

Yes sir. 22.5 or so. Two broken DVs was enough for me to get the Forge. I'm happy with it. If this cage ever gets finished I'll be able to see how it holds up on track.

all mentally noted for when I go stage 2, adding forge DV to the list.