Drivetrain Getting hesitation at wide open throttle
Getting hesitation at wide open throttle
just got finished with turbo upgrade and tune and now I’m experiencing a problem every time I give it wot it hesitates as if going into boost cut if I ease into the boost then give it wot then It runs better. It’s as if it doesn’t want to go into boost.not sure on what could be the problem I’ve been trying to figure this out for the last few days I need help
Well manic stage 3 requires you to run either 100 octane or race fuel or meth , or both !
I would run ILKR8E6 1422,
An if that doesn’t work I would start looking at your fuel pumps in tank & hpfp along with filter’ when’s the last time you had the valve walnut blasterd
I would run ILKR8E6 1422,
An if that doesn’t work I would start looking at your fuel pumps in tank & hpfp along with filter’ when’s the last time you had the valve walnut blasterd
Yeah it’s definitely not an option ‘ don’t feel too bad though not the only one that got suckered into that ‘ find yourself some race fuel a and run it through and see what happens !
& as far as the autolites xp071 I have absolutely no idea : I’ve only ran the NGK 1422
& as far as the autolites xp071 I have absolutely no idea : I’ve only ran the NGK 1422
The p0128 is Coolant “Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature”
A common problem with the thermostat. It might be going bad or the sensor is bad
Usually people start to realize that the thermostat or sensor is bad’ when they flash a tune on because it changes temperature settings ‘
The P0420 is catalyst efficiency below threshold
When you want with the catless pipe did you plug your Secondary o2 back in,
The tune doesn’t require it But it needs to be plugged in or’ needs some kind of type of resistor in to close the loop
A common problem with the thermostat. It might be going bad or the sensor is bad
Usually people start to realize that the thermostat or sensor is bad’ when they flash a tune on because it changes temperature settings ‘
The P0420 is catalyst efficiency below threshold
When you want with the catless pipe did you plug your Secondary o2 back in,
The tune doesn’t require it But it needs to be plugged in or’ needs some kind of type of resistor in to close the loop
Last edited by BigBoost; Apr 30, 2018 at 10:40 AM.
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I’ll make sure to put better gas in and get back to you. hmm 🤔 I replaced the thermostat sensor and housing not to long ago and yes I still have the secondary o2 sensor installed would it be better to just delete it ? I was also told to mix 91 octane with e85 to increase fuel safe
Yeh’ I’ve tryed the 91 mix an it doesn’t work ‘ at least it didn’t work for me !
I’m pretty positive that the rear O2 is deleted from the new MAP, but it still needs the Signal from the plug , ecm needs it for the other crap ! Am Kind of at the point where I kind of understand it but then again I don’t ,
And as far as the thermostat housing goes’ I want though two of them before getting one that wasn’t defective ‘
I’m pretty positive that the rear O2 is deleted from the new MAP, but it still needs the Signal from the plug , ecm needs it for the other crap ! Am Kind of at the point where I kind of understand it but then again I don’t ,
And as far as the thermostat housing goes’ I want though two of them before getting one that wasn’t defective ‘
Yeh’ I’ve tryed the 91 mix an it doesn’t work ‘ at least it didn’t work for me !
I’m pretty positive that the rear O2 is deleted from the new MAP, but it still needs the Signal from the plug , ecm needs it for the other crap ! Am Kind of at the point where I kind of understand it but then again I don’t ,
And as far as the thermostat housing goes’ I want though two of them before getting one that wasn’t defective ‘
I’m pretty positive that the rear O2 is deleted from the new MAP, but it still needs the Signal from the plug , ecm needs it for the other crap ! Am Kind of at the point where I kind of understand it but then again I don’t ,
And as far as the thermostat housing goes’ I want though two of them before getting one that wasn’t defective ‘
Last edited by Brainpp; Apr 30, 2018 at 09:16 PM.
may or may not help
I had this issue for a completely stock Countryman All4. It was misfiring according to the dealer and they said the ignition coils were faulty and they replaced them as well as the spark plugs.
Update I checked ignition coil packs and they do seem to be working properly found that spark plugs weren’t gapped properly and gapped to spec runs better now. I can actually boost up to 15 but not the full 21 pounds so I’m wondering if anyone would be able to tell me if coked valves would cause this because that’s the only thing I can think of car hasn’t had valves cleaned ever I think 😬 and also if anyone knows of a shop or someone that can walnut blast my valves I would appreciate it thanks 🙏
Check your PCV valve system, you have 2 main failure points, the first one is the diaphragm in the top left corner, remove carefully the cap and see the diaphragm isnt broken. The second one is the check valve in the lower right corner, disconnect the hose that goes to the intake tube and try to blow air in it should not let you blow in but you should be able to breathe in. If any of those are busted you should replace the whole valve cover and tap the the PCV ports while you are at it: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...arbon-fix.html
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